DxBurnoutKing

And where is it located?

my car (1994 dx with a Z6 swap) is throwing the ELD code (code 20) and i have no ******* idea how to go about even starting to fix it. Someone please help point me in the right direction.

DxBurnoutKing

Up, i need an answer.

neutron91

its the fuse box under the hood... i think its incorporated into it somehow

DxBurnoutKing

ok well i'm throwing code 20, how do I know if this is bad or not before I go and replace the entire fusebox.

clint g

iTrader: (1)

I need to know as well my car has been throwing the same code for a year almost

neutron91

to my knowledge thats the only way to fix it is replace the entire box... i think the ELD senses excessive resistance in the wiring harness... so if you have a hacked up harness you might wanna try replacing/fixing that... this happened to a friend of mine... he replaced the fuse box and it still threw the code... he changed his engine harness and it went away

DxBurnoutKing

well i can explain my symptoms then, i'm driving around, taking it slow then when i try to floor it the RPM needle goes ******* nuts and the car will jerk. Its not like at the same RPM every time or anything but its annoying cause sometimes it catches me off gaurd.

On top of that my IAC Valve is going bad... actually it was throwing me a code 14 and not letting me into vtec but then one day it just let me into Vtec and the code 14 went away.

I swear the car is ****** posessed.

I need to figure out whats going on ASAP because i wanna try to sell/trade the thing.

GDM Z28

get a chipped ecu, make a map in uberdata and turn off the eld......that might get rid of it.

AlpineInstaller

Sup... I had this same problem after doing a motor swap (stock to stock: scored crank made me do it!). First, the ELD is under the fuse box in the engine bay. It is part of the whole thing and the entire fuse box has to be replaced. DON'T DO IT. Not yet... Pull that fuse box out, pop the bottom cover off and check all of the harness connections. If they are tight and seem OK move to underneath the dash. Check your fuses. ALL of them. But most importantly, the alternator fuse. I have a D16Y8 and this fuse was the root of all my problems including: 21: ELD, 17: VSS; 45: Primary O2 sensor and 65: secondary O2 sensor. If everything seems OK, then PM me and I can give you some more diagnostic steps to try to isolate whether or not it's ACTUALLY the ELD.

HTH

DxBurnoutKing

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlpineInstaller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sup... I had this same problem after doing a motor swap (stock to stock: scored crank made me do it!). First, the ELD is under the fuse box in the engine bay. It is part of the whole thing and the entire fuse box has to be replaced. DON'T DO IT. Not yet... Pull that fuse box out, pop the bottom cover off and check all of the harness connections. If they are tight and seem OK move to underneath the dash. Check your fuses. ALL of them. But most importantly, the alternator fuse. I have a D16Y8 and this fuse was the root of all my problems including: 21: ELD, 17: VSS; 45: Primary O2 sensor and 65: secondary O2 sensor. If everything seems OK, then PM me and I can give you some more diagnostic steps to try to isolate whether or not it's ACTUALLY the ELD.

HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>

will do.


but.
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve

code 21 isnt the ELD....or were you saying that you were getting a code 21 in addition to all of that?