VSS help needed
#1
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VSS help needed
So I swapped a JDM ITR swap into my 99 Si and for some reason my VSS won't work. I was told buy some people there was a difference between JDM and USDM VSS so I bought a JDM one and there was a difference in the size of the wheel at the end but neither one of them seem to work. So I wired the VSS straight to the ECU and still nothing. What I did notice is that the speedo doesn't work but I get no check engine light and the car drives fine. If I unplug the VSS the check engine will come on and the car won't cross over and runs funny. So I guess its safe to assume that from the sensor to the ECU the wiring is working but for whatever reason the ECU is not sending the signal to the cluster. So I changed the cluster with a stock DX cluster and still nothing. If anyone has any idea's tips or whatever that would be great. Thanks
#2
Re: VSS help needed (FBP_EM1R)
Alright well when my VSS was accidentally unplugged my car ran the exact same besides no readings on the cluster and then eventually vtec stopped working. At this time i just plugged the unit back in. But i know the VSS wont cause a CEL. Be sure to checkt he connection with the VSS and be sure the clips are in good order and the contacts are clean so the signal can be sent properly. i suggest cleaning them out with a type of electronics cleaner than evaporates so you dont damage them.
GL
GL
#3
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Re: VSS help needed (vtecftw)
I also have this prob after an intake manifold install, but mine is a usdm ITR in a em1 and the speedo and tach works, vtec worked last night but im getting a solid cel, and crazy idle surge. throwing code 17. (p28 W/s200)
#4
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Re: VSS help needed (vtecftw)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecftw »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright well when my VSS was accidentally unplugged my car ran the exact same besides no readings on the cluster and then eventually vtec stopped working. At this time i just plugged the unit back in. But i know the VSS wont cause a CEL. Be sure to checkt he connection with the VSS and be sure the clips are in good order and the contacts are clean so the signal can be sent properly. i suggest cleaning them out with a type of electronics cleaner than evaporates so you dont damage them.
GL </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it will cause a CEL, it is code P0500 or code 17 for the self test code. Most common problem with that is the connector corrodes away because coolant gets into the pins, primarily due to changing a thermostat or intake manifold. Sometimes the "river of crap" that some people have flowing down the sides of the bell housing splashes into it as well and ruins it. Use the VSS that came with the transmission.
99em1_sir check your pins, not to hype the whole "JDM" thing, but the VSS plug on the JDM harness uses a kinda spring loaded flap instead of the traditional double roll terminal, which wears out if you unplug it a lot (kinda like a speaker wire connector). I had this problem in my car after discovering water made its way through the weather packing and destroyed the blk/yel power wire for the sensor.
GL </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it will cause a CEL, it is code P0500 or code 17 for the self test code. Most common problem with that is the connector corrodes away because coolant gets into the pins, primarily due to changing a thermostat or intake manifold. Sometimes the "river of crap" that some people have flowing down the sides of the bell housing splashes into it as well and ruins it. Use the VSS that came with the transmission.
99em1_sir check your pins, not to hype the whole "JDM" thing, but the VSS plug on the JDM harness uses a kinda spring loaded flap instead of the traditional double roll terminal, which wears out if you unplug it a lot (kinda like a speaker wire connector). I had this problem in my car after discovering water made its way through the weather packing and destroyed the blk/yel power wire for the sensor.
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Re: VSS help needed (slowcivic2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
99em1_sir check your pins, not to hype the whole "JDM" thing, but the VSS plug on the JDM harness uses a kinda spring loaded flap instead of the traditional double roll terminal, which wears out if you unplug it a lot (kinda like a speaker wire connector). I had this problem in my car after discovering water made its way through the weather packing and destroyed the blk/yel power wire for the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am running a USDM motor and vss. i looked at the vss and the connector today and it did look dirty and to have coolant around and maybe even in the pins. cleaned both side with brake cleaner let air dry and went back with comp air and im still getting a cel. and only code 17. The speedo is working fine, but after looking and looking i still have a fluxing idle, which i think is a vacuum but cant seem to find.
99em1_sir check your pins, not to hype the whole "JDM" thing, but the VSS plug on the JDM harness uses a kinda spring loaded flap instead of the traditional double roll terminal, which wears out if you unplug it a lot (kinda like a speaker wire connector). I had this problem in my car after discovering water made its way through the weather packing and destroyed the blk/yel power wire for the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am running a USDM motor and vss. i looked at the vss and the connector today and it did look dirty and to have coolant around and maybe even in the pins. cleaned both side with brake cleaner let air dry and went back with comp air and im still getting a cel. and only code 17. The speedo is working fine, but after looking and looking i still have a fluxing idle, which i think is a vacuum but cant seem to find.
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#9
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Re: (FBP_EM1R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FBP_EM1R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nothing stated so far helps me, its not my vss and its not the connector ive already checked all that</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then it looks like you'll be opening up your entire harness to find the break. The pins work their way loose over time, and need to be replaced. Are you 100% sure that the pins are making contact when they are plugged in. Just because it is plugged in doesn't mean they are making contact.
The PCM does not send a signal to the cluster, there is a splice pack in the firewall that diverts the signal to the speedo, the cruise control module, and the PCM. If you hardwire it to the PCM you will never have a speedo again without splicing it to the cluster, same goes for the cruise control module. If you have an ITR swap with an ITR tranny then use the VSS that comes with the tranny, the differences are not for speed correction, but for different differentials. The LS/non LSD B16 differentials are different from the GSR/Type R ones, and has a different speedo ring gear.
Then it looks like you'll be opening up your entire harness to find the break. The pins work their way loose over time, and need to be replaced. Are you 100% sure that the pins are making contact when they are plugged in. Just because it is plugged in doesn't mean they are making contact.
The PCM does not send a signal to the cluster, there is a splice pack in the firewall that diverts the signal to the speedo, the cruise control module, and the PCM. If you hardwire it to the PCM you will never have a speedo again without splicing it to the cluster, same goes for the cruise control module. If you have an ITR swap with an ITR tranny then use the VSS that comes with the tranny, the differences are not for speed correction, but for different differentials. The LS/non LSD B16 differentials are different from the GSR/Type R ones, and has a different speedo ring gear.
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Re: (slowcivic2k)
ive tried 4 different types of VSS. what makes me this its not the connection is when its plugged in the car drives fine and doesnt throw a code but still does not read at the speedo. if i unplug the VSS the car will throw a code 17 after a few minutes and drives funny...
#11
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Re: (FBP_EM1R)
That is caused by the blk/yel wire supplying the proper voltage to the sensor for operation. The PCM has a Comprehensive component monitor that will check circuits for continuity, if they pass that test, you should not have a MIL. Once you unplug it it fail because the CCM sees this and says hey, this is not working, and throws a code.
Do this just for kicks. Disconnect the battery, which will clear all the codes, and drive around all over the rpm band with the sensor plugged in. After reaching full warm, drive a bit more and then park it. If the MIL is not lit like you are saying, perform the self test function with a paper clip or something else suitable. Just because the MIL is not lit, does not mean that there is not a code. If there is no code stored, then you are good, simply splice a wire to the speedometer and you should be fine, if the speedo doesn't work after hooking it up, you have a faulty speedo.
Do this just for kicks. Disconnect the battery, which will clear all the codes, and drive around all over the rpm band with the sensor plugged in. After reaching full warm, drive a bit more and then park it. If the MIL is not lit like you are saying, perform the self test function with a paper clip or something else suitable. Just because the MIL is not lit, does not mean that there is not a code. If there is no code stored, then you are good, simply splice a wire to the speedometer and you should be fine, if the speedo doesn't work after hooking it up, you have a faulty speedo.
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Re: (slowcivic2k)
i swapped the cluster out for a stock dx cluster and nothing from that as well. i will def try what you said then i will have to figure out what wire to splice to where on the cluster. thanks for trying to help
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Re: (FBP_EM1R)
It's your ECU. When you did the motor swap I assume you put the JDM ECU that came with the motor, that probably wont read the ECU because of slight differences in the wire harness and how its geared up to run threw the ECU. If the ECU doesnt throw a CEL code when the VSS is plugged in, it means the wiring is completeing a circuit etc. which is a good thing. I would say reprogram the ECU, I think it's how its geared up to read the VSS.
However, I also would have thought by getting the JDM VSS thats for the motor/trans originally, that would have fixed it? Is it possible that all the VSS sensors are bad? Or could it be that not the gear on the VSS is worn, but its not making contact with the helicle gear inside the trans?
However, I also would have thought by getting the JDM VSS thats for the motor/trans originally, that would have fixed it? Is it possible that all the VSS sensors are bad? Or could it be that not the gear on the VSS is worn, but its not making contact with the helicle gear inside the trans?
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Re: (FBP_EM1R)
Thats where the issue is. Im not an expert on ECU programming, but its probably not picking up the signal. The issue isnt the actual VSS being bad, nor the wiring, it's the ECU being able to read it/ reconize it. Try switching the ECU and see if your spedometer will work.
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Re: (HCivicSi23)
Look at that u got your thread back.
I have checked all my pins and even changed out the IACV and i am still getting a fluxing idle and code 17. i guess monday ill try a diff VSS. Any other ideas?
I have checked all my pins and even changed out the IACV and i am still getting a fluxing idle and code 17. i guess monday ill try a diff VSS. Any other ideas?
#20
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Re: (HCivicSi23)
If you are throwing code 17 check for high resistance in your wiring on the VSS, if the VSS is out of range because of a resistance going to the PCM or ground, it will lower the voltage an report a speed that is not accurate to the PCM, the PCM will verify speed with engine RPM and other sensors, if it is out of range, it will suspend it, and throw a code. Speedo sensors almost never go bad unless you bang them around alot, all it is is a magnetic wheel spinning around an energized coil to produce a voltage change. Not that high tech, kinda like a really small pickup coil.
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Re: (slowcivic2k)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HCivicSi23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">try adjusting the white screw inside the sensor... sometimes it gets alterd a little bit. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Inside what sensor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are throwing code 17 check for high resistance in your wiring on the VSS, if the VSS is out of range because of a resistance going to the PCM or ground, it will lower the voltage an report a speed that is not accurate to the PCM, the PCM will verify speed with engine RPM and other sensors, if it is out of range, it will suspend it, and throw a code. Speedo sensors almost never go bad unless you bang them around alot, all it is is a magnetic wheel spinning around an energized coil to produce a voltage change. Not that high tech, kinda like a really small pickup coil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So were whould i test the vss? at the sensor or the ecu?what exactly am i looking for, and could this be the reson behind my idle bouncing from 900-2000?
So why is my speedo and rpm still working fine?
Inside what sensor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowcivic2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are throwing code 17 check for high resistance in your wiring on the VSS, if the VSS is out of range because of a resistance going to the PCM or ground, it will lower the voltage an report a speed that is not accurate to the PCM, the PCM will verify speed with engine RPM and other sensors, if it is out of range, it will suspend it, and throw a code. Speedo sensors almost never go bad unless you bang them around alot, all it is is a magnetic wheel spinning around an energized coil to produce a voltage change. Not that high tech, kinda like a really small pickup coil.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So were whould i test the vss? at the sensor or the ecu?what exactly am i looking for, and could this be the reson behind my idle bouncing from 900-2000?
So why is my speedo and rpm still working fine?
#22
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Re: (99em1_sir)
RPM is determines by the crankshaft position sensor in the distributor, and plays no role in running the speedo other than comparing engine RPM to tire speed for rationality.
If your speedo and rpm are fine, then youve got a break in the VSS signal wire to the ECU, inspect that and repair.
If your speedo and rpm are fine, then youve got a break in the VSS signal wire to the ECU, inspect that and repair.
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Re: (slowcivic2k)
so i go my idle worked out with the TPS and checked the voltage at the vss and cleaned it and un and re pluged the vss. then re set the ecu. now i am getting code one and not 17.
Maybe its because my exhaust is broke after the test pipe? lol
Maybe its because my exhaust is broke after the test pipe? lol
#24
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Re: (99em1_sir)
Yes, if you don't have enough pipe past the collector in the o2 (IE open header...) it will cycle really messed up, and throw a code 1 for o2. Fix your exhaust and you will be fine.
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Re: VSS help needed (FBP_EM1R)
your problem will be from wiring directly back to the ecu. on the stock harness the vss wire (usually blue/white) splits at the brown jumper connector. from there 1 end goes to the ecu and the other goes to the green connector. that green connector feeds your gauges and other various components.