VIN # Question
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
yeah check the VIN number, there should be one located on the transmission and i think one on the block on the back side above the alternator bracket (althought i have never been able to find it, but it there according to the manual.
Other then that I if the engine is stock you might want to check the distrubutor to see if it's a two peice or one peice connector thingy. I believe if it's a two then it's from 92-95 and if it's a one peice then its' a 96 and up.
Someone please correct me if my infor is incorrect.
Other then that I if the engine is stock you might want to check the distrubutor to see if it's a two peice or one peice connector thingy. I believe if it's a two then it's from 92-95 and if it's a one peice then its' a 96 and up.
Someone please correct me if my infor is incorrect.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WV MS
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
I'm NOT 100% it's an "EX" though (although the trunk has the EX decal). Under the hood, all the factory spec. decals are gone. That's why I was wondering if someone could do it by the VIN.
#5
Re: VIN # Question
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_D_engine#D15B7
According to Wikipedia that engine didn't come in the EX. I could be wrong tho.
According to Wikipedia that engine didn't come in the EX. I could be wrong tho.
#6
Seagull Management
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Miramichi, NB, Canada
Posts: 15,150
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
22 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
Lol, Well it's a '92 EX 4 dr, It has the D15B7. Looks like it's been replaced at some point.
I'm NOT 100% it's an "EX" though (although the trunk has the EX decal). Under the hood, all the factory spec. decals are gone. That's why I was wondering if someone could do it by the VIN.
I'm NOT 100% it's an "EX" though (although the trunk has the EX decal). Under the hood, all the factory spec. decals are gone. That's why I was wondering if someone could do it by the VIN.
Edit, I should probably clarify the examples I posted apply specifically to 5th gen sedans.
Last edited by 94EG8; 12-24-2008 at 04:21 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WV MS
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
Yes. If it starts XXXEH9 (where the Xs represent the first 3 digits of the VIN) then it came with a D16Z6, it starts XXXEG8 then it came with a D15B7. For example my VIN starts JHMEG8 and came stock with a D15B7.
Edit, I should probably clarify the examples I posted apply specifically to 5th gen sedans.
Edit, I should probably clarify the examples I posted apply specifically to 5th gen sedans.
Or would I be better off going back with a D15B7 (I know where one of these are already pulled).
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: VIN # Question
well the D16Z6 will work just fine just the vtec wont kick in. u need the get the computer off the car and the vtec controller i think. wire harness or maybe u can modify yours? someone correct me if im wrong/missed something.
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
He only needs the ECU, then the Z6 will work fine, after he runs the extra wires to D(6?) for the VTEC oil pressure sensor and A4, I believe, for the VTEC solenoid.
You do not need a VTEC controller, it is never a necessity. Only a ricer option.
The Z6 is pretty much just plug and play with the aside from the 2 extra wires you need to run for VTEC to function.
PS: You can use the B7 trans, although it's longer than the Z6 trans so I wouldn't recommend it. Everything is reusable, though, unless broken.
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: VIN # Question
Well I will jump in say this, that each digit repsents something diffrent like the first digit is where is was manufactured (usa, canada, japan) the 8th digit is what motor came in it and the 10th digit is what year it is and the last 6 or 7 digits is unique to that vehicle so really your not going to get anything out of just the first few digits and without knowing with the the numbers represent then your still not going to know but if you go and plug your vin into carfax it should at least give you a make model and engine size without paying for the report
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WV MS
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
You're wrong.
He only needs the ECU, then the Z6 will work fine, after he runs the extra wires to D(6?) for the VTEC oil pressure sensor and A4, I believe, for the VTEC solenoid.
You do not need a VTEC controller, it is never a necessity. Only a ricer option.
The Z6 is pretty much just plug and play with the aside from the 2 extra wires you need to run for VTEC to function.
PS: You can use the B7 trans, although it's longer than the Z6 trans so I wouldn't recommend it. Everything is reusable, though, unless broken.
He only needs the ECU, then the Z6 will work fine, after he runs the extra wires to D(6?) for the VTEC oil pressure sensor and A4, I believe, for the VTEC solenoid.
You do not need a VTEC controller, it is never a necessity. Only a ricer option.
The Z6 is pretty much just plug and play with the aside from the 2 extra wires you need to run for VTEC to function.
PS: You can use the B7 trans, although it's longer than the Z6 trans so I wouldn't recommend it. Everything is reusable, though, unless broken.
I Thankyou guyz for all the help, I'm just trying to gather some info before I pull either engine and see what's gonna be involved and how much trouble.If it's gonna be a bitch, I'd just as soon stick the B7 back. Power wise, will I notice that big a difference? I really need my car so how long do you think it would take to pull this off and be up and running?
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WV MS
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
Well I will jump in say this, that each digit repsents something diffrent like the first digit is where is was manufactured (usa, canada, japan) the 8th digit is what motor came in it and the 10th digit is what year it is and the last 6 or 7 digits is unique to that vehicle so really your not going to get anything out of just the first few digits and without knowing with the the numbers represent then your still not going to know but if you go and plug your vin into carfax it should at least give you a make model and engine size without paying for the report
That's fine though if I can get the Z6 to work without a lotta trouble.
Thanks alot gsrhatch2356, that was a GREAT idea!
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
That don't seem to bad. So all the electrical connections will work? I'd use the Z6 tranny, do I have to the axles from the Z6?
I Thankyou guyz for all the help, I'm just trying to gather some info before I pull either engine and see what's gonna be involved and how much trouble.If it's gonna be a bitch, I'd just as soon stick the B7 back. Power wise, will I notice that big a difference? I really need my car so how long do you think it would take to pull this off and be up and running?
I Thankyou guyz for all the help, I'm just trying to gather some info before I pull either engine and see what's gonna be involved and how much trouble.If it's gonna be a bitch, I'd just as soon stick the B7 back. Power wise, will I notice that big a difference? I really need my car so how long do you think it would take to pull this off and be up and running?
The power difference will be small, not gonna lie, the difference between a stock B7 and a stock Z6 is very minimal. Would I bother with it? Only if I was going to boost, other than that, probably not.
As far as down time, you can have the engine out and the new one in in less than a day if you know what you're doing, first time, I'd say a weekend should be no problem as long as you don't run into any trouble. Which if you have all the parts and such, you shouldn't.
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: WV MS
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: VIN # Question
Yeah, all the electrical connections will work - assuming it's a Z6 - a Y8 is not "the same thing" - different electrical components such as the alternator, injectors, and distributor.
The power difference will be small, not gonna lie, the difference between a stock B7 and a stock Z6 is very minimal. Would I bother with it? Only if I was going to boost, other than that, probably not.
As far as down time, you can have the engine out and the new one in in less than a day if you know what you're doing, first time, I'd say a weekend should be no problem as long as you don't run into any trouble. Which if you have all the parts and such, you shouldn't.
The power difference will be small, not gonna lie, the difference between a stock B7 and a stock Z6 is very minimal. Would I bother with it? Only if I was going to boost, other than that, probably not.
As far as down time, you can have the engine out and the new one in in less than a day if you know what you're doing, first time, I'd say a weekend should be no problem as long as you don't run into any trouble. Which if you have all the parts and such, you shouldn't.
Syndacate- Y8? Not familiar with this? Im sure its a D16Z6, (that's what it says down on the block). The only reason I'm considering it is because I can pick the whole car up for $600 bux (good deal)? 140K, runs and drives great but has been nailed in the rear, still driveable.
Also a guy near me has the complete B7 , 160k (engine only) for $250?
Whatta ya think? About the same chore installing either?
Not looking to build a hotrod, just something to get me around the block for a few years.
Thanx again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post