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VIN # Question

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Old 12-24-2008, 02:26 PM
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Default VIN # Question

Is there anyway or anyone on here that can tell me what engine my car came out with originally? VIN # perhaps?
Old 12-24-2008, 02:36 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

well what car and what engine do you have? we aren't magicians or psychics.
Old 12-24-2008, 02:39 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

yeah check the VIN number, there should be one located on the transmission and i think one on the block on the back side above the alternator bracket (althought i have never been able to find it, but it there according to the manual.

Other then that I if the engine is stock you might want to check the distrubutor to see if it's a two peice or one peice connector thingy. I believe if it's a two then it's from 92-95 and if it's a one peice then its' a 96 and up.

Someone please correct me if my infor is incorrect.
Old 12-24-2008, 03:01 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by Anon51
well what car and what engine do you have? we aren't magicians or psychics.
Lol, Well it's a '92 EX 4 dr, It has the D15B7. Looks like it's been replaced at some point.
I'm NOT 100% it's an "EX" though (although the trunk has the EX decal). Under the hood, all the factory spec. decals are gone. That's why I was wondering if someone could do it by the VIN.
Old 12-24-2008, 03:08 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_D_engine#D15B7

According to Wikipedia that engine didn't come in the EX. I could be wrong tho.
Old 12-24-2008, 03:51 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by taterbug
Lol, Well it's a '92 EX 4 dr, It has the D15B7. Looks like it's been replaced at some point.
I'm NOT 100% it's an "EX" though (although the trunk has the EX decal). Under the hood, all the factory spec. decals are gone. That's why I was wondering if someone could do it by the VIN.
Yes. If it starts XXXEH9 (where the Xs represent the first 3 digits of the VIN) then it came with a D16Z6, it starts XXXEG8 then it came with a D15B7. For example my VIN starts JHMEG8 and came stock with a D15B7.

Edit, I should probably clarify the examples I posted apply specifically to 5th gen sedans.

Last edited by 94EG8; 12-24-2008 at 04:21 PM.
Old 12-24-2008, 04:17 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
did NOT know that
Old 12-24-2008, 04:26 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

yea the D15B7 was for the DX and LX only. If ur trully a EX u should have the VTEC D16Z6
Old 12-24-2008, 05:59 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by 94EG8
Yes. If it starts XXXEH9 (where the Xs represent the first 3 digits of the VIN) then it came with a D16Z6, it starts XXXEG8 then it came with a D15B7. For example my VIN starts JHMEG8 and came stock with a D15B7.

Edit, I should probably clarify the examples I posted apply specifically to 5th gen sedans.
Damn, It must not be an EX then. The first 5 digits are 1hgeg8. How much trouble is it gonna be to make a D16Z6 work? I have a perfect engine/tranny in a car that was hit in the rear. This car is a '95 is still be driven.
Or would I be better off going back with a D15B7 (I know where one of these are already pulled).
Old 12-24-2008, 06:30 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

well the D16Z6 will work just fine just the vtec wont kick in. u need the get the computer off the car and the vtec controller i think. wire harness or maybe u can modify yours? someone correct me if im wrong/missed something.
Old 12-24-2008, 06:49 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by arrocha87
well the D16Z6 will work just fine just the vtec wont kick in. u need the get the computer off the car and the vtec controller i think. wire harness or maybe u can modify yours? someone correct me if im wrong/missed something.
You're wrong.

He only needs the ECU, then the Z6 will work fine, after he runs the extra wires to D(6?) for the VTEC oil pressure sensor and A4, I believe, for the VTEC solenoid.

You do not need a VTEC controller, it is never a necessity. Only a ricer option.

The Z6 is pretty much just plug and play with the aside from the 2 extra wires you need to run for VTEC to function.

PS: You can use the B7 trans, although it's longer than the Z6 trans so I wouldn't recommend it. Everything is reusable, though, unless broken.
Old 12-24-2008, 07:02 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Well I will jump in say this, that each digit repsents something diffrent like the first digit is where is was manufactured (usa, canada, japan) the 8th digit is what motor came in it and the 10th digit is what year it is and the last 6 or 7 digits is unique to that vehicle so really your not going to get anything out of just the first few digits and without knowing with the the numbers represent then your still not going to know but if you go and plug your vin into carfax it should at least give you a make model and engine size without paying for the report
Old 12-24-2008, 07:19 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by Syndacate
You're wrong.

He only needs the ECU, then the Z6 will work fine, after he runs the extra wires to D(6?) for the VTEC oil pressure sensor and A4, I believe, for the VTEC solenoid.

You do not need a VTEC controller, it is never a necessity. Only a ricer option.

The Z6 is pretty much just plug and play with the aside from the 2 extra wires you need to run for VTEC to function.

PS: You can use the B7 trans, although it's longer than the Z6 trans so I wouldn't recommend it. Everything is reusable, though, unless broken.
That don't seem to bad. So all the electrical connections will work? I'd use the Z6 tranny, do I have to the axles from the Z6?
I Thankyou guyz for all the help, I'm just trying to gather some info before I pull either engine and see what's gonna be involved and how much trouble.If it's gonna be a bitch, I'd just as soon stick the B7 back. Power wise, will I notice that big a difference? I really need my car so how long do you think it would take to pull this off and be up and running?
Old 12-24-2008, 07:30 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by gsrhatch2356
Well I will jump in say this, that each digit repsents something diffrent like the first digit is where is was manufactured (usa, canada, japan) the 8th digit is what motor came in it and the 10th digit is what year it is and the last 6 or 7 digits is unique to that vehicle so really your not going to get anything out of just the first few digits and without knowing with the the numbers represent then your still not going to know but if you go and plug your vin into carfax it should at least give you a make model and engine size without paying for the report
Thanks, I did it and it's definitely an LX.
That's fine though if I can get the Z6 to work without a lotta trouble.
Thanks alot gsrhatch2356, that was a GREAT idea!
Old 12-24-2008, 10:02 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by taterbug
That don't seem to bad. So all the electrical connections will work? I'd use the Z6 tranny, do I have to the axles from the Z6?
I Thankyou guyz for all the help, I'm just trying to gather some info before I pull either engine and see what's gonna be involved and how much trouble.If it's gonna be a bitch, I'd just as soon stick the B7 back. Power wise, will I notice that big a difference? I really need my car so how long do you think it would take to pull this off and be up and running?
Yeah, all the electrical connections will work - assuming it's a Z6 - a Y8 is not "the same thing" - different electrical components such as the alternator, injectors, and distributor.

The power difference will be small, not gonna lie, the difference between a stock B7 and a stock Z6 is very minimal. Would I bother with it? Only if I was going to boost, other than that, probably not.

As far as down time, you can have the engine out and the new one in in less than a day if you know what you're doing, first time, I'd say a weekend should be no problem as long as you don't run into any trouble. Which if you have all the parts and such, you shouldn't.
Old 12-24-2008, 10:35 PM
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Default Re: VIN # Question

Originally Posted by Syndacate
Yeah, all the electrical connections will work - assuming it's a Z6 - a Y8 is not "the same thing" - different electrical components such as the alternator, injectors, and distributor.

The power difference will be small, not gonna lie, the difference between a stock B7 and a stock Z6 is very minimal. Would I bother with it? Only if I was going to boost, other than that, probably not.

As far as down time, you can have the engine out and the new one in in less than a day if you know what you're doing, first time, I'd say a weekend should be no problem as long as you don't run into any trouble. Which if you have all the parts and such, you shouldn't.

Syndacate- Y8? Not familiar with this? Im sure its a D16Z6, (that's what it says down on the block). The only reason I'm considering it is because I can pick the whole car up for $600 bux (good deal)? 140K, runs and drives great but has been nailed in the rear, still driveable.
Also a guy near me has the complete B7 , 160k (engine only) for $250?
Whatta ya think? About the same chore installing either?
Not looking to build a hotrod, just something to get me around the block for a few years.
Thanx again.
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