kKdARIAN

Ok. First off, thanks for taking the time to click this.
I have been having issues with my car after i installed a new head. Everything went perfect, so i thought. When i went to start it, I heard this: wererereerereere ...
I am getting ZERO spark. Fuel pump works, injectors squirt, does not turn.
heh please look at the video and listen to the sound as my rendition is poor.

thanks h-t!

ps: here is the video it is 1.7mb or something.

http://www.cherrychaser.net/vi...k.wmv

B18C5-EH2

Holy ****.

You have either washed the cylinders out by trying to start it with no spark, or you have a broken timing belt and/or bent a lot of valves.

There is no compression in those turns bro.

Did you ever get a normal starting up sound? You know when it spun over did it ever sound like normal and trying to kick over?

If you have no spark then I'll bet it's the coil inside the distributor.

The coil is a big box inside your dizzy with a spring sticking out of it.

You can swap it out by removing the dizzy, taking the cap off, then removing the rotor button, dust shield, and then removing the two phillips scrwws that attach wires to it and hen the two bigger phillps screws that hold the coil itself in place.

If that doesn't fix it then it could be the ignitor which is also right there in the dizzy. It's that flat piece with three-four connectors on it and it is also held in with two phillips screws.

When you spin the car over too much with no spark it dumps fuel in the engine and washes the cylinder walls out and gives you the illusion of no compression.

It might take a while to crank even after you get spark, and when it does crank you'll get a lot of raw fuel and smoke out of the exhaust for a few minutes.

If it always sounded like that then you might be off some teeth on the timing and you could have bent some valves.

kKdARIAN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Holy ****.

You have either washed the cylinders out by trying to start it with no spark, or you have a broken timing belt and/or bent a lot of avlves.

There is no compression in those turns bro.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf. the timing belt is completely intact' its a brand new belt- replaced it when i changed the head.

#@(*&% I just got that head.. all valves were in great shape prior to install..

*SIGH*

none the less, sounds like im screwed.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kKdARIAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wtf. the timing belt is completely intact' its a brand new belt- replaced it when i changed the head.

#@(*&% I just got that head.. all valves were in great shape prior to install..

*SIGH*

none the less, sounds like im screwed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read my edited reply.

It could be that you had no spark at first and all of that trying to start washed the cylinders out with raw fuel.

Did you use your old dizzy?

2lua

do a compression check on the engine.
recheck your timing.
recheck your plug wires to see if you had cross wire.
check for spark.

B18C5-EH2

A compression check might read bad even if it's not due to the cylinders being washed out.

I also told him via IM that his ignition switch pigtail/electrical portion could have gone bad too.

The things that control spark are pretty much:

Distributor base
Ignitor
Coil
Ignition switch pigtail
Wires
Plugs
ECU

uNbrokeN

damn thats does not sound good

kKdARIAN

car still runs after the ignition test i just did... i really don't want to take it to a shop.. errr they will rape me $$ wise...

new distributor, new rotor, new cap, new wires, new plugs .. same problem

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

its sounds like a frickin rotary

Littleredsi

ok well you say you know you have no spark?? You actually do know this for sure ? or are you just assuming

cause if you have replaced all the stuff that you said you have then ... then sorta leads to the ECU, or maybe a broken wire? You made sure all your grounds are good, you ddidn't rip and harness by accident?

As said before, it does sound like you are getting any compression at all.

upgraded

I had this same problem with a 92 Si I just bought and it sounded just like yours as if there was no compression or "bump" when it cranked. after checking the belt, timming, turned out tho be a bad dist. Runs like a champ.

fastwanabe

you did put a headgasket on right? sounds to me like its got no compression.

mycivicstoo(s)low

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you did put a headgasket on right? sounds to me like its got no compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>That would be an embarassing discovery.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Littleredsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well you say you know you have no spark?? You actually do know this for sure ? or are you just assuming

cause if you have replaced all the stuff that you said you have then ... then sorta leads to the ECU, or maybe a broken wire? You made sure all your grounds are good, you ddidn't rip and harness by accident?

As said before, it does sound like you are getting any compression at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope your saying it sounds like he isnt getting any compression at all

Good ol' Screwtape

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mycivicstoo(s)low &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That would be an embarassing discovery. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tru, tru.

tilt

With car out of gear, if you manually turn the crank is there any resistance? It certainly doesnt sound like its making compression. Are you sure the valve lashes are in spec on the new head? they could be loosened all the way. The other thing that comes to mind is the tbelt is horribly off somehow. good luck.

NonovUrbizniz

how are you checking spark???

I'd recomend pulling the plugs one by one... and AFTER having removed the pgm fi fuse... cranking it... if the all the plugs are sparking I'd recheck the firing order... in order the check the power of the spark... take off just the plug end spark plug wire and hold a plastic handled screw driver about 1/8th of an inch away from the snap connector... back it off till you're about 1/2" away from it... the spark should be able to jump at least 3/8ths of an inch.

The coil and ignitor are the same thing. they're just different terms. The coil/ignitor is the "big box inside your dizzy with a spring sticking out of it."

The ICM (Ignition Control Module) is "that flat piece with three-four connectors on it and it is also held in with two phillips screws."

The things I would check first if I were you would be the presence/degree of spark First at the plugs then after the coil.
The firing order.
Compression.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kKdARIAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">car still runs after the ignition test i just did... i really don't want to take it to a shop.. errr they will rape me $$ wise...

new distributor, new rotor, new cap, new wires, new plugs .. same problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay so you need to go to your local Honda dealer and buy an Ignition Switch Pigtail. They might call it The Electrical Portion of the ignition switch.

Guys I think what he's saying is that he can get the car running as long as he holds the key in the furthest turned position after backing off just enough to disengage the starter.

Again I think he's got fine compression only after he gets all of that extra fuel out of the cylinders.