Valve clatter when cold a sign of timing belt wear?
#1
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Valve clatter when cold a sign of timing belt wear?
Our '99 EX sedan, 5-speed is geting a progresively louder vaalve clatter when cold. It s still then when warm at idle but not as pronouced. It does not change even with new 5W-30 and filter on it? Is this a sign of timing belt needing replacement, it does have 95k on the clock. Or do the valave clerance just need to be adjusted?
#3
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Valve lashing maybe. NO OIL STABILIZER.... In my opinion, that **** just aint kosher. Bro i've got 173k on the clock and on 1030 it ticked a bit upon cold temp startup but went with 530 and thats gone. ( I also use synthetic) Have you checked your oil level? As long as it doesnt go above that second hole on the dipstick you can fill it to that point.
What kind of temps are you in? If you've got plenty of oil in there and its 530 then you may need a slight valve adjustment. With only 95k onthe clock you dont need oil stabilizer.
What kind of temps are you in? If you've got plenty of oil in there and its 530 then you may need a slight valve adjustment. With only 95k onthe clock you dont need oil stabilizer.
#4
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Re: (ek gripper)
I don't do additives to oil except Marvel Mystery oil a few miles before a over due oil change to clean out deposits!
I will have plenty in there in fact it is sa LITTLE over filled. I will look into Synthetic 0W-30 to see if that helps. I live in New Hampshire so it gets cold up here.
I will have plenty in there in fact it is sa LITTLE over filled. I will look into Synthetic 0W-30 to see if that helps. I live in New Hampshire so it gets cold up here.
#5
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Re: (shortlid)
honda dealer told me that it's called piston slap and that it's something that all honda's do especially ones with a little miles on them and it's nothing to be concerned about, when the engine warms up the size of the pistons change a little and then it goes away.
#6
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Re: (Kista20)
There aren't any signs of timing belt wear as far as I know, other than seeing rubber shreds.
If you think it's near time to change the belt, change it. It's so important that it doesn't break.
B
If you think it's near time to change the belt, change it. It's so important that it doesn't break.
B
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Re: (99CivicSiBrian)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99CivicSiBrian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There aren't any signs of timing belt wear as far as I know, other than seeing rubber shreds.
If you think it's near time to change the belt, change it. It's so important that it doesn't break.
B</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is very very important the owners manual says 105,000 so get that done and also replace the water pump because you have to pull the timing belt to replace it anyways but do it soon. For what little preventative maintenance costs it will save thousands more down the road.
If you think it's near time to change the belt, change it. It's so important that it doesn't break.
B</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is very very important the owners manual says 105,000 so get that done and also replace the water pump because you have to pull the timing belt to replace it anyways but do it soon. For what little preventative maintenance costs it will save thousands more down the road.
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#10
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Re: (shortlid)
when I did mine few years ago the dealer was actually cheaper on the water pump. I also had to get a motor mount through them as well. The timing belt I'm pretty sure I got it at advance, I prob. would've gotten the water pump there as well but they didn't know when they would get it in so I called the dealer. To answer your question yes the timing belt runs the water pump.
For all the noobs that doesn't know the reason that you should change the timing belt you should because if it breaks then the bottom end meaning the crank and pistons are still moving and the valvetrain in the head isn't and what happens is the pistons come up and hit the valves because the valvetrain is not turning so they can't move out of the way totally effective in destroying your motor... so timing belt breaks + pistons hit valves = new motor.
For all the noobs that doesn't know the reason that you should change the timing belt you should because if it breaks then the bottom end meaning the crank and pistons are still moving and the valvetrain in the head isn't and what happens is the pistons come up and hit the valves because the valvetrain is not turning so they can't move out of the way totally effective in destroying your motor... so timing belt breaks + pistons hit valves = new motor.
#11
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Re: (Kista20)
He is correct on that....BUT.....If you have a LS or CRV motor they are a "non-interference" motor. This allows the belt to snap and not bend the valves!!
#13
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Re: (rEhGd6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rEhGd6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He is correct on that....BUT.....If you have a LS or CRV motor they are a "non-interference" motor. This allows the belt to snap and not bend the valves!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are they really non-interference? I've never heard that.
One time, we broke a belt on my friends B16 and just replaced the belt and everything was fine! Weird.
VW's are non-interference.
B
Are they really non-interference? I've never heard that.
One time, we broke a belt on my friends B16 and just replaced the belt and everything was fine! Weird.
VW's are non-interference.
B
#14
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Pro. or DIY
The water pump is a good idea. What is the feeling here. Should I do the timing belt, valave adjustment and water pump replacmnet my self. Or have my local independant Honda mechanic do it?
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Re: Pro. or DIY (shortlid)
The timing belt, and water pump are easy to do... You just need the right set of tools and some time to do it and maybe a service manual for your car. If you dont feel like you can do it by yourself I would take it to the honda dealer to do. Its going to cost alot though
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Re: (rEhGd6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rEhGd6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He is correct on that....BUT.....If you have a LS or CRV motor they are a "non-interference" motor. This allows the belt to snap and not bend the valves!!</TD></TR></TABLE>Bullshit my LS belt broke and my motor was gone, it bent all the valves and took chunks of metal out of the pistons, so who ever told u that was a dumbass and dont know wtf there talkin about
#17
Re: Pro. or DIY (shortlid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortlid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The water pump is a good idea. What is the feeling here. Should I do the timing belt, valave adjustment and water pump replacmnet my self. Or have my local independant Honda mechanic do it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
All depends on how much you have worked on these cars since if you mess up you're engine is toast, if you have the space (heated space in the winter), if you have the tools, if you have a spare car if this is your first time and things go wrong....etc. Its not extremely difficult, but things like loosening the crank pulley bolt are a pain without the correct tools.
I didnt have a garage to do mine, and I got chastized by the dick moderator RODNEY for taking it to the dealer.
I wouldnt take it to a private mechanic, or if you do, make sure they use honda parts. Aftermarket waterpumps are pretty much all crap. Seen way to many of them go bad after 10,000 mi.
All depends on how much you have worked on these cars since if you mess up you're engine is toast, if you have the space (heated space in the winter), if you have the tools, if you have a spare car if this is your first time and things go wrong....etc. Its not extremely difficult, but things like loosening the crank pulley bolt are a pain without the correct tools.
I didnt have a garage to do mine, and I got chastized by the dick moderator RODNEY for taking it to the dealer.
I wouldnt take it to a private mechanic, or if you do, make sure they use honda parts. Aftermarket waterpumps are pretty much all crap. Seen way to many of them go bad after 10,000 mi.
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Well working in a shop and looking this up in a manual the only motor honda makes that is non-interference is the v6. Everything else is interference but I have gotten lucky myself and broken a couple of timing belts on my ls and be fine but have friends who haven't been as lucky. And I agree with the rest if you don't have the tools or a car to drive while you do this then take it to someone reliable around your area IMO. good luck on the whole thing either way
#19
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Re: Pro. or DIY (CardDealer)
Thanks for the heads-up. I don't have a garage and my local independant ONLY works on Honda and Acura cars and ONLY uses stock parts!
#20
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Re: Pro. or DIY (shortlid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortlid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the heads-up. I don't have a garage and my local independant ONLY works on Honda and Acura cars and ONLY uses stock parts! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats a good spot then and it's worth a few extra bucks IMO.
I can do my timing belt in about 5 hrs incl a lunch break, so expect a shop to charge atleast 3hrs for labor plus parts.
B
Thats a good spot then and it's worth a few extra bucks IMO.
I can do my timing belt in about 5 hrs incl a lunch break, so expect a shop to charge atleast 3hrs for labor plus parts.
B
#21
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Re: Pro. or DIY ?
OK, spoke to the Ed's Honda Repair in Hudson, NH and he quoted $425 for all HOnda parts to replace the T-belt and replace the water pump. A addintional $58 to adjust the valves on the Y8 while he is in there. Doe sthat sound resonable?
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Re: Pro. or DIY ? (shortlid)
Sounds about right to me. For a water pump and timing belt on my Subaru it was the same price and I got quoted the same for my Civic. Sounds good for peace of mind and quality parts.
#24
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Re: Pro. or DIY ? (shortlid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CardDealer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I didnt have a garage to do mine, and I got chastized by the dick moderator RODNEY for taking it to the dealer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, don't start and i won't be a dick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortlid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$425 for all HOnda parts to replace the T-belt and replace the water pump. A addintional $58 to adjust the valves on the Y8 while he is in there. Doe sthat sound resonable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not bad. parts at retail are about $200 for sohc. so, he is making $300 off you for labor. if you have a/c and p/s, then that is a decent deal. if you do not, then the price is a tad inflated.
I didnt have a garage to do mine, and I got chastized by the dick moderator RODNEY for taking it to the dealer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, don't start and i won't be a dick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortlid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$425 for all HOnda parts to replace the T-belt and replace the water pump. A addintional $58 to adjust the valves on the Y8 while he is in there. Doe sthat sound resonable?</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is not bad. parts at retail are about $200 for sohc. so, he is making $300 off you for labor. if you have a/c and p/s, then that is a decent deal. if you do not, then the price is a tad inflated.
#25
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Re: Pro. or DIY ? (Rodney)
Well it is a stock EX sedan so it does have P/S and A/C. Maybe I can handle it myself. Is there anything to lock the cams in place so I don't mess up the timing while installing the belt?