uneven rear disc braking ... help
11-27-2007, 12:08 AM
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uneven rear disc braking ... help
i have a 98 civic hatchback with integra rear disc brakes. when i installed them i got brand new e-brake cables for a 99/00 SI.
now i noticed that the rear brakes are uneven.
i drove down the block and pulled the e-brake...only the driver side left a skid mark.
i took off the armrest to look at the lever...with the handle down, the cables sit even to eachother, but when the handle is pulled up, the passenger cable is extended farther towards the front of the car.
im not sure what the problem might be, i tried loosening and tightening the adjustment, seems to make no difference. just seems like the driver side wheel locks up and the passenger side doesnt.
but then why does the passenger cable pull out more? shouldnt it be the other way around? i dunno..maybe im just confused, lol. help.
now i noticed that the rear brakes are uneven.
i drove down the block and pulled the e-brake...only the driver side left a skid mark.
i took off the armrest to look at the lever...with the handle down, the cables sit even to eachother, but when the handle is pulled up, the passenger cable is extended farther towards the front of the car.
im not sure what the problem might be, i tried loosening and tightening the adjustment, seems to make no difference. just seems like the driver side wheel locks up and the passenger side doesnt.
but then why does the passenger cable pull out more? shouldnt it be the other way around? i dunno..maybe im just confused, lol. help.
11-27-2007, 12:38 AM
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Re: uneven rear disc braking ... help (beav)
id start by looking at the cable itself... ie the ends perhaps the end on the rear pass side on the caliper is loose ?
11-27-2007, 04:53 AM
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Re: uneven rear disc braking ... help (john666)
nahh the cable is brand new and its attached to both ends firmly. and all the brackets that hold the body of the cables are firmly attached to the chassis and trailing arms.
11-27-2007, 05:00 AM
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when you engage the ebrakes, does the passenger side caliper ebrake spring move or does it stay in the "open" position? maybe that part of the caliper that connects to the ebrake cable is bad of froze....
11-27-2007, 05:38 AM
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Re: (gsxr1k05)
passenger side wouldn't move.its just the way honda has it.my 94 eg4dr has rear gsr brakes,I put new 94 ex cables(a must, ex model has great fit ,n rotors not drums)and the drivers side comes up more then the passenger side,its not a problem,the reason for this happening is because the driver has more weight on that side so it brakes harder.
11-27-2007, 06:47 AM
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Re: (wolferine358)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolferine358 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">passenger side wouldn't move.its just the way honda has it.my 94 eg4dr has rear gsr brakes,I put new 94 ex cables(a must, ex model has great fit ,n rotors not drums)and the drivers side comes up more then the passenger side,its not a problem,the reason for this happening is because the driver has more weight on that side so it brakes harder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is quite possibly the worst explanation i have heard so far. please dont add your 2¢ if you are giving your own theories. you not only waste peoples time, but you degrade honda's intelligence.
i think they are a little smarter than to make the rear end of a front wheel drive car have uneven braking forces. don't you think thats kind of unsafe???
nonetheless, i thank you for the bump.
that is quite possibly the worst explanation i have heard so far. please dont add your 2¢ if you are giving your own theories. you not only waste peoples time, but you degrade honda's intelligence.
i think they are a little smarter than to make the rear end of a front wheel drive car have uneven braking forces. don't you think thats kind of unsafe???
nonetheless, i thank you for the bump.
11-27-2007, 07:04 AM
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Re: (wolferine358)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolferine358 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">passenger side wouldn't move.its just the way honda has it.my 94 eg4dr has rear gsr brakes,I put new 94 ex cables(a must, ex model has great fit ,n rotors not drums)and the drivers side comes up more then the passenger side,its not a problem,the reason for this happening is because the driver has more weight on that side so it brakes harder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, just wow! What proof do you have behind this?
Wow, just wow! What proof do you have behind this?
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11-27-2007, 10:16 AM
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Re: (beav)
i have noticed that on my 99 civic ex (still have drims 
) the passenger side is the side that leaves the skid mark i don't know y i don't break evenly but the car still stops so i dont really care. also i am looking to do a disc conversion did you swap the master cylinder or keep the stock one? i for some reason thought that you may have problems if you dont swap the master cylinder?
) the passenger side is the side that leaves the skid mark i don't know y i don't break evenly but the car still stops so i dont really care. also i am looking to do a disc conversion did you swap the master cylinder or keep the stock one? i for some reason thought that you may have problems if you dont swap the master cylinder?
11-27-2007, 10:36 AM
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Re: (SpeedoKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedoKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have noticed that on my 99 civic ex (still have drims ) the passenger side is the side that leaves the skid mark i don't know y i don't break evenly but the car still stops so i dont really care. also i am looking to do a disc conversion did you swap the master cylinder or keep the stock one? i for some reason thought that you may have problems if you dont swap the master cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Way to thread jack, ********.
As for Honda making it that way...
The JDM, EDM, and USDM calipers are all the same, as are the cables. You are out of your freaking mind if you think otherwise.
Now for a real solution, like someone else mentioned, check the caliper. Have someone else move the handle up and down while you watch the caliper. You should see the small arm that has the spring on it move or rotate. If it isn't moving at all, you have a cable issue. As much as we all hate to believe it, some parts come from the manufacturer and don't work. Been there, done that. I spent a month chasing an ignition issue because a new OEM spark plug wire cracked...
Anyway, if you see the arm move just a tiny bit, you're looking at a caliper problem. If it's moving freely, it's a bad caliper. The e-brake engages seperately from the normal hydraulic actuation from the brake pedal. It is all inside the caliper.
If the caliper is new, return/exchange it. If it's used, you can take some time and tear it apart and normally figure out why it's binding. Hell, it could be the the sliders on the caliper bracket are seized. If it is used, that's probably your most likely culprit. At that point, torch it if you have to (not a cutting a torch), to get it out. Then sand down the slider until it's smooth. Side it in and out of the receiver until it moves freely. Then clean the slider off again, grease it, and throw it all back together.
) the passenger side is the side that leaves the skid mark i don't know y i don't break evenly but the car still stops so i dont really care. also i am looking to do a disc conversion did you swap the master cylinder or keep the stock one? i for some reason thought that you may have problems if you dont swap the master cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>Way to thread jack, ********.
As for Honda making it that way...
The JDM, EDM, and USDM calipers are all the same, as are the cables. You are out of your freaking mind if you think otherwise.
Now for a real solution, like someone else mentioned, check the caliper. Have someone else move the handle up and down while you watch the caliper. You should see the small arm that has the spring on it move or rotate. If it isn't moving at all, you have a cable issue. As much as we all hate to believe it, some parts come from the manufacturer and don't work. Been there, done that. I spent a month chasing an ignition issue because a new OEM spark plug wire cracked...
Anyway, if you see the arm move just a tiny bit, you're looking at a caliper problem. If it's moving freely, it's a bad caliper. The e-brake engages seperately from the normal hydraulic actuation from the brake pedal. It is all inside the caliper.
If the caliper is new, return/exchange it. If it's used, you can take some time and tear it apart and normally figure out why it's binding. Hell, it could be the the sliders on the caliper bracket are seized. If it is used, that's probably your most likely culprit. At that point, torch it if you have to (not a cutting a torch), to get it out. Then sand down the slider until it's smooth. Side it in and out of the receiver until it moves freely. Then clean the slider off again, grease it, and throw it all back together.
11-27-2007, 10:59 AM
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Jack the rear up and see if there's any abnormal resistance in spinning the rear wheels (obviously have the e-brake off).
If one has resistance, your caliper is hung up, if not, one of your e-brake cables are stretched. E-brake cables never should be replaced one at a time, so replace both of them.
That's the entire answer to this, shouldn't have gone any further
If one has resistance, your caliper is hung up, if not, one of your e-brake cables are stretched. E-brake cables never should be replaced one at a time, so replace both of them.
That's the entire answer to this, shouldn't have gone any further
11-27-2007, 11:05 AM
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's the entire answer to this, shouldn't have gone any further</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? So, a hung up caliper or a stretched cable is the answer? How bout giving him a solution like I did? I expected better out of you, man.
That's the entire answer to this, shouldn't have gone any further
</TD></TR></TABLE>Really? So, a hung up caliper or a stretched cable is the answer? How bout giving him a solution like I did? I expected better out of you, man.
11-27-2007, 05:39 PM
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Re: (Bakeoff)
thanx for all the input guys, will check on it on my next sunny day.
and now now...no need to get all fussy over it. its not that serious.
and now now...no need to get all fussy over it. its not that serious.
11-27-2007, 05:49 PM
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Re: uneven rear disc braking ... help (beav)
sorry to steal ur tread but does ur rear disc squeak when u go up a speed bump? becaue mines does. it sounds like it is coming from the upper stock mount.
11-28-2007, 08:32 AM
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Re: uneven rear disc braking ... help (kasperxtcy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kasperxtcy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to steal ur tread but does ur rear disc squeak when u go up a speed bump? becaue mines does. it sounds like it is coming from the upper stock mount. </TD></TR></TABLE>
nope...doesnt squeak. make sure your trailing arm bushing isnt rubbing against your chassis. also, if you have control arms with polyurethane bushings, check to see that the bushings arent in direct contact with the parts of the trailing arm where they are attached. also if you have a rear sway bar with polyurethane D bushings...you have to keep those greased or they will squeak like all hell.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onelovebiker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how are tha brakes when u hit tha pedal? in tha back, does both sides brake evenly? or is it tha same situation as tha ebrake? </TD></TR></TABLE>
nahh the braking is fine. ppedal is fine and the front brakes are even. why? what factor would this contribute to my problem? if i had uneven front braking i assume it would be a hydrolic problem, but nonetheless, the ebrake cable is completely seperate from the hydrolic system.
nope...doesnt squeak. make sure your trailing arm bushing isnt rubbing against your chassis. also, if you have control arms with polyurethane bushings, check to see that the bushings arent in direct contact with the parts of the trailing arm where they are attached. also if you have a rear sway bar with polyurethane D bushings...you have to keep those greased or they will squeak like all hell.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onelovebiker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how are tha brakes when u hit tha pedal? in tha back, does both sides brake evenly? or is it tha same situation as tha ebrake? </TD></TR></TABLE>
nahh the braking is fine. ppedal is fine and the front brakes are even. why? what factor would this contribute to my problem? if i had uneven front braking i assume it would be a hydrolic problem, but nonetheless, the ebrake cable is completely seperate from the hydrolic system.
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