Austinbionic316

Alright um I've been doing alotta homework as of late, and I came up with the somewhat perfect swap, I wanted to get JDM GSR motor, but I heard it only pushes about 178hp and puts down about 148whp which pissed me off, but I thought about getting a JDM b16 swap and sell the motor for a Type R motor, but I dont know which one to go, either EK-R or DC2-R, cause I know the EK-R just stock without bolt ons pushes 155whp and the DCR pushes about 165whp stock, so which swap would be easiler to install in my EK?

I also heard the EK motor will bolt on without any extra's parts needed, but with the DC2-R, would I need anything else to finish the swap with the Type R teg motor? and if I want to Turbo it, I would need the GSR Cams, and thats it right?

jerbear!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austinbionic316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> but I thought about getting a JDM b16 swap and sell the motor for a Type R motor</TD></TR></TABLE>
uhhhhh ????

B18C5-EH2

Technically speaking the DC and EK B series engines will go in the exact same way.

You are referring to the B16B (CTR) and B18C (ITR) motors, right?

If so I'd ditch the weak-*** B16B and go for the B18C-R. The 1.8L owns the 1.6 in terms of torque. The B16B is a revvable bad-*** road race engine, but for daily driving and stoplight wars the B18C ITR engine is the way to go.

Austinbionic316

Since u live in GA do you know how much the swap runs to install it, since you have the same motor Im getting?

how much whp does the ITR motor puts down

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austinbionic316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since u live in GA do you know how much the swap runs to install it</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's better handled via IMs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much whp does the ITR motor puts down</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine did this:



Mods:

1998 USDM B18C5 - 100% STOCK. 60K miles
AEM CAI for 99-00 Civic Si
DC JDM 4-1 Header (2.5'' collector)
CarSound 2.5'' Cat
Tanabe Super Medallion Racing Spec exhaust for 1992-1995 Civic hatch
Skunk 2 cam gears
B&M FPR
Kenji-Spec P28
Freshly Installed V-AFC
Fresh Oil Change - Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetic

ATS*Mark

nice

Austinbionic316

and thats bone stock with no mods or bolt ons? because if I get an extra 102whp from this turbo kit, then it would be about 270 or 275whp right?

EdLeake

What % do you guys use for transmission loss?

275whp is around 340hp at the fly!

Happyman

If you plan on going turbo id suggest the GSR over the type r. Yes, it would be more of a gain to do the type r but without precise tuning the type r is very unstable under boost.


Edit: and usually I go by 10-15% loss so it'd be more like 300-310 at the flywheel

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austinbionic316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and thats bone stock with no mods or bolt ons? because if I get an extra 102whp from this turbo kit, then it would be about 270 or 275whp right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure where you're getting the exact figure of "102hp."

Boosting a Type R engine can be done, even on stock internals, but it's not the most cost effective thing to do.

You're taking a swap that already costs upwards of $4,500.00 easily, and adding a turbo kit that costs at least $3,500.00. You'll definately need the control of a stand-alone ECU and tuning which will run another good $1,000.00 or more, so in the end you'll be spending almost $10,000.00 on a set-up that might not last.

I'd get an LS swap, build it, and boost it.

I'd save the Type R swap for someone who wants a bone stock swap that makes great power and isn't looking to do any crazy N/A builds or boost builds.

Jon D

Couldnt have said this any better myself Tom....ill tell dumbass people this all the time when they ask me why i havent turboed my car yet. Listen to Tom, myself and anybody else going with this advice. Stick to it and you'll be fine. Boostin an R motor can be done very easily and make great power but your not going to last. Just trust us on this one. Not that R motors werent meant to be boosted or anything, but they are race ready from the factory and should stay that way IMO .

EdLeake

10-15% ??? Most rolling roads in the UK use 21 or 23%...

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdLeake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10-15% ??? Most rolling roads in the UK use 21 or 23%... </TD></TR></TABLE>

You said rolling road.



Yeah I was talking with some british guys and they called it the same thing.

Austinbionic316

when I mean 102 I mean is the horsepower added from the turbo, I talked to one of the guys at Turbo-kit.com at one time and he said with a FMAX turbo you gonna see 102hp over stock wheel horsepower, and he said he's seen GSRs Dyno stock 245whp!

pwrofdrm

As previously stated...If you're looking to go boost then dont get a Type R or any JDM motor that would fit in your car for that matter. JDM motors (let alont the Type R) run higher compression ratios then USDM. When you're boosting, you want lower compression pistons. So unless you were going to build the motor up, it's not really a boost motor. Like B18C5-EH2 said, do some research into the LS motor. It handles boost well on stock internals, and the long gears in the tranny are beautiful for spoolin'.

On a side note for the Boosted C5 doubters... I personally know someone in the 10's on a built Type R Turbo EH2 hatch

Austinbionic316

Im staying away from the LS motor, if I did go type R then I remember doing research on the type R and I remember that I would have to get GSR cams, and low compression pistion, and somethin else I forgot.

GSR-Civic

i'm very happy with my GSR,

you will hardly lose dude, infact I havent lost yet with my GSR civic.

also add a type R cam in it

Si tranny comin soon for me

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austinbionic316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im staying away from the LS motor, if I did go type R then I remember doing research on the type R and I remember that I would have to get GSR cams, and low compression pistion, and somethin else I forgot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here's the point I'm making though bro:

Why spend so much more on the Type R engine when you are going to ruin the best thing about it (the excellent O.E build quality) by tearing it down to build it for boost?

If you're gonna tear one down why not just buy a GS-R swap and use the extra money for forged internals?

VX_SOHC

dont mess with Tom he is all so powerful...but like he said;

build an ls or a gsr which is much better for boost...ask anyone that

the type-r is meant more for high-revin N/A set ups. thats why the compression is much higher on those cars then on the GSR's and the LS's.

sure its nice to say you have a turbo'd Type-r but your gonna be spending lots of $ and some punk in a gsr built turbo could beat you in a drag race on the track

Austinbionic316

yeah, I understand what you mean, cause I aimed to get a GSR motor in a Civic, but u know the swap might have problems during the install, thats my biggest fear, if my swap goes wrong then, Im screwed.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austinbionic316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, I understand what you mean, cause I aimed to get a GSR motor in a Civic, but u know the swap might have problems during the install, thats my biggest fear, if my swap goes wrong then, Im screwed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude any B series swap will go into your car pretty much the same, so there's no clear-cut advantages to going Type R over GS-R in that respect.

KiD Fr0m Da 516

u should rethink and do some research for ls/turbo, they can put out a lot of power if you know what your doing, and ls/turbo v. a vtec/turbo has less problems also, i dono do what you want but honestly ls/turbo is a nice setup

nonsense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austinbionic316 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, I understand what you mean, cause I aimed to get a GSR motor in a Civic, but u know the swap might have problems during the install, thats my biggest fear, if my swap goes wrong then, Im screwed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

huh? how is a GSR swap going to be any different to install over an ITR? You need to listen to B18C5-EH2 and do some more research. Don't always take what a turbo kit maker says at face value either. There a lot more to it than just slapping in a new engine and slapping a turbo onto it. IMO if you're def. going turbo, go built LS or GSR. ITR's are *usually* best left NA, unless you have stupid cash to dump into it, and even then if you race a guy with the same $$ into a turbo LS he's probably going to beat you anyway.

Steve

Austinbionic316

no thats ok, because i hear the LS/VTEC has cons and pro, and that motor isnt worth it in the long run, I'll just do what I was gonna do in the beginning, get the b16 tranny with the Type R final gear set and get my b18c which ever I see fit for the car, and my temp goal is to put down 275 to the wheels, and I'll build the motor for 400whp max but run 275 around the streets or maybe 300whp which ever I feel best.

TwistedSI

If you already have the EK why not just boost the single cam in it? I know you won't get the power that you would with a boosted b-series but you will see some awesome gains. Benefit of that is if you loose your motor you can get another for around $300 and a day's worth of wrenching on it. If you blow a GSR or b18c5 you are out at least a few grand and a days worth of wrenchin.