tallguy21

I was looking through some of the stickies and it said 10w30 honda oil?

That still the best choice or is Mobil 1 or some type of synthetic the best? And is that weight right or is 5w30 or something like that better?

And are NGK plugs and wires the best way to go? at what gap?

dpetro1

we can't help you if you don't tell us what car/enigne you have.

tallguy21

good call lol..

sorry about that

b16a ej1

nitrousjunkie

Castrol 5w-30 Honda plug wires and some ngk plugs

Sonia's Driver

Except for oil and tires, just get genuine Honda parts. The parts are sometimes less expensive than others, sometimes more, but you can always be sure that you're getting the right thing.

As for oil, just use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30. That way, if you can't get around to changing it as often as it should be changed, it's not a big deal - the oil can take the abuse. Wait until it's on sale, then get a few gallons.

darksolderx

royal purple oil, NGK iridium plugs, NGK wires, Tec distributor cap, and rotor, and if your engine is b16a2 then the gap for those iridium plugs or any should be 1.3mm

[edit] actually your manual should say everything you need to know about what you need

1. first of all you should be using premium unleaded fuel since you have a B series engine, any lower octane fuel will give you problems in the combustion chamber

2. your engine oil cap should tell you the correct weight of the engine i beleive mine is 5w30, and since i have a em1 we should have the same motors, but it REALLY depends on where your at so check the cap

3. in the manual the part number for b16a2 is PFR6L-13 (NGK) which can be bought at advanced autoparts for the price of about $2.99 per spark plug, i got iridiums for $6.99

- on a side note for (#3. its recommended that when it comes to your ignition system always go with honda products you dont wanna be running duralast or w.e when NGK and nippon and all the other japanese brand names are hondas best running partner lol) {gap 1.3mm // 0.051in}

eddies_ls88

not meaning to hijack your thread but. do factory components like wires and cap and rotors give you a better gas mileage? than items that are found at autozone and oreilllys. like after market items

darksolderx

yes and no, its good to have factory components they tend to last longer, and replacing your spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, fuel filter, and air filter replacing all of those will definatly give you better gas mileage especially if all of those parts are old.

beeseeries

You don't need to run 91 in a b16a2, sorry chief.


Synthetic is good, if you want to shell out the money for it every oil change. I use castor based oils in everything I own/owned, never had a problem. Mobil is good too, never had a problem with it and I used to swear by it until it went way up in price. Royal purple is not needed either.


Of course OEM parts are the best, but $3 plugs and autozone wires are fine if that is all you can afford. Plugs come pregapped, unless you need to gap them for a boosted motor or something.

94EG8

Cheap wires just flat out suck. Most of them stick in head and rip apart the first time you try to change your plugs. NGK wires are ok, they work well and don't fall apart, but even they aren't quite as good as genuine honda wires (which are made by sumitomo)

fatpride111

Anything with a 10:1 and above compression ratio is pretty much recommended to use premium fuel. and B16's are rated at 10.2:1 IIRC. So, sorry Beeseeries, but you can run cheap fuel if you want to be cheap, but dont expect a cheap repair bill when your engine detonates first time you rev it to 8k...

Dont just go by what your oil cap tells you, You have to get oil for where YOU are at, climate, elevation, etc. I always run 10w-30 in my GSR. You can run different weights, but you have to adjust the oil weight to the temperature outside, how much you drive your vehicle, etc. Lots of factors matter, but for best results without having to buy a new type of oil every change, I would go with 5w-30, or 10w-30. Synthetic is SO worth the money to know your car will be getting extra protection for like $10 more... and it last longer so you can go slightly longer without changing your oil.
I spent $19 w/ filter on conventional oil, and $26.50 for synthetic at wal-mart... and going 3k miles vs 5k miles, and knowing im better protected for my 1hr commute to work is well worth the extra $7 bucks.

I also agree to go with the iridiums, They last longer, and perform better. The regular NGk's were fine also, but if youre asking for the BEST plugs, I'd go for NGK Iridiums. I used Denso Iridium plugs for my last tune up, and they were worth every penny. I noticed a HUGE difference swapping those out for the cheap-*** autolite plugs my car came with

beeseeries

I guess the 10+ Bseries motors I've owned/built are all dead now from detonation! Stupid me running 87!

Importdj67

Ive always used castrol motor oil, ngks wires and plugs never had any problems.. my built motor has lasted me over 4 years.

fatpride111

... youre trying to be sarcastic, but thats actually reality. My stock GSR with 10:1 compression specifically says "PREMIUM FUEL ONLY" both on the manual, and on the cluster. If the manufacturer recommends it, why would you go against it to save a few cents??

But thats me, If you want to be cheap and save $15 cents a gallon to put fuel that is not recommended, then by all means. Its not my car, so I wont have to pay for the repairs.


Ever wonder why OLDER cars take cheap gas? Its because they have LOW compression numbers (like 8:1), even at 9.5:1 It is still recommended (Not manditory) to run 91 octane. Passing 12:1 and you have to start running race fuel.

The octane rating is only the fuels resistance to pre-detonation. EVEN IF YOU COULD run 87 octane in a B16 without any problems, why the hell would you?? You'd be getting less MPG's, less power, more emissions, etc. You would be getting less of the proper mixture needed to make that engine run right.

backyardtech

oem is best ngk wires and plugs with reg oil(I prefer castrol gtx), synthetic oils are overrated watch type r legends and you will see that spoon says the same thing

tallguy21

I appreciate all of the responses...how much do the iridiums usually cost and last for that matter?

if I live in FL which is usually a warmer climate, would 5w30 be a good way to go in terms of gas mileage and protection?

and the gap on the plugs?

beeseeries

You are awfully worked up over what gas someone chooses to use. I'd get a life.


By the way, you're preaching to the choir. I promise you I'm more knowledgeable than you think you are.

dpetro1

iridiums are about $12 a plug and last about 100k miles. standard copper plugs are about $2.50 each and i change them every 10k miles (about once a year for me)

oe gap on the b16 is .052"

in a warm climate, i dont think you will see any difference in 5w30 vs 10w30. the owners manual states that 5w30 is only needed for temps below 0

tallguy21

for the copper plugs are you referring to NGK? And for better burn or even a very slight increase in power does anybody ever gap a lil bigger as in like .055 or higher? or would that be a big nono?

EFPhilly

Haaaaaaaaaa. ^+1 for you. Just for not being an *** like I would have been.

I have ran and tuned my b18 that is frankensteined on regular pump gas and its worked fine. The only problem I ever had was burning a valve due to oil burning from the turbo (when it was on). Higher octane gas is needed when compression on a stock motor is stepped up or a turbo is used. Now running regular on a fresh type-r motor is something I wouldnt due just because its a friggen Type-r motor, but for anything else that is a dime a dozen I would/have/and am running regular with no problems.

There are many things that can be said but proven wrong. A local Honda Guru tunes his cruising A/f's to 16:1...I was talking to him saying its not true you have to be around 14.7:1 ...no way in hell, yet saw it for my eyes! Nevertheless, this is a 10 second car that has been running flawlessly for 3+ years. If a turbo street car can run 16:1 A/f's then I would say that a normal B-series street car can handle regular pump gas. Seriously there are way too many threads on this regular gas stuff....just run what you wanna run and laugh at the stock non-turbo ppl telling you they make way more power running premium.

EFPhilly

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug#Spark_plug_gap

As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.


A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.

With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.

from: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...stallation.asp

beeseeries

16:1 AFR's at cruising are pretty normal. Even factory car's are mapped this way.

apexi_rsx

Royal Purple is junk *** oil! i've head more bad things about it then good ... i recommend castrol just like the dealership uses. you can run lower grade fuel now of days because newer OBD2 cars have a knock sensor once it senses a knock it retards timing. why **** a fit over premium fuel unless ur running real compression numbers like 11:1 or higher. 10:1 is not really high compression and would be fine on mid grade gas. 16:1 is fine cruising in vacuum but not when boosted. a boosted vehicle can be tuned the same as N/A when its in vacuum. its boost that needs to be fattened up. this is why a boosted car will get the same gas mileage as it did with no Boost as long as u stay cruising in vacuum most the time.

darksolderx

lol didnt mean to start a flame war..... i have a confession.... i ran 87 once didnt like the way it felt tho like you said you CAN run under 91 or w.e but idk i wouldnt recommend it unless your driving slow all day long 2500-3500 rpm then i guess its no big deal but the higher octane helps prevent premature combustion however is does go faster so youll be refilling more often so

unleaded regular = drive slow

unleaded premium = doesnt matter drive however you want

Libertariat

OEM tune up kits can be had on Ebay for $87 or so dollars. Got mine with free shipping from a great honda parts dealer that's on ebay.

Oil filter, wires, plugs, cap/rotor.