Trailing arm Bushing shot
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Trailing arm Bushing shot
Hey guys, new to the forum. 1st time post.
94 del sol not to sure what motor. other than it says vtec on the valve cover. The rear trailing arm bushings are gone. The rubber is completely worn out and broken. I need to know how hard it is to replace? I would like to know if anyone in the chicago land area knows where i can get/borrow a bushing press(like the one in the DIY post)?
Modified by benzo_tek at 6:08 PM 11/12/2007
94 del sol not to sure what motor. other than it says vtec on the valve cover. The rear trailing arm bushings are gone. The rubber is completely worn out and broken. I need to know how hard it is to replace? I would like to know if anyone in the chicago land area knows where i can get/borrow a bushing press(like the one in the DIY post)?
Modified by benzo_tek at 6:08 PM 11/12/2007
#3
Re: Trailing arm Bushing shot (B16B_coupe)
its not hard at all provided you have the tools and the muscles to do it. I did mine this past summer, not that hard at all, just time consuming. Its also quite a workout for skinny guys like me.
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its a simple process, first either you can use this extractor that doesnt require you to remove the whole trailing arm assembly or just remove the whole assembly get a friend with a press, press it out, put the new one in, bolt it back up and be done. Should take a couple hours, pretty easy.
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does anyone have a extractor that i can borrow? i can leave a deposit via paypal. I am mechanically inclined and know how to use an extractor. If for some reason it gets broken I will loose my deposit.
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i just replaced these when i did my rear drum2disc conversion. you DO NOT NEED the tool or a press if the arm is OUT of the car. you can hammer it out, and hammer the new ones in. i lined it up and used the tallest sleve and end part from a 3 in 1 ball joint press kit. went in no problem. i did both arms. by the way, the part number you want is 52385-S21-003 they are the redisigned honda ones that are 28.95 on slhonda.com
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Re: (quicksilver1689)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might need a press, sometimes they are pretty damn hard to get out, use a penetrating oil to make ur job easier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just not on the bushing. Oil based stuff will eat away at your bushings.
just not on the bushing. Oil based stuff will eat away at your bushings.
#9
Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just not on the bushing. Oil based stuff will eat away at your bushings. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it doesnt matter when the bushings are coming off tho. You don't want to lube anything when you put them back in.
just not on the bushing. Oil based stuff will eat away at your bushings. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it doesnt matter when the bushings are coming off tho. You don't want to lube anything when you put them back in.
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Where would be a good place to get replacement bushings? Will this part #52385-S21-003 work on a 94 del sol from slhonda.com ? All bushings the same for all years and models?
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Re: (benzo_tek)
1988-00 Civic and 1993-97 del Sol
52385-SR3-000
'94+ Integra's used a different bushing. I'm guessing the diameter is different.
See Service Bulletion 00-006 at the dealership, or I can e-mail it to you.
I did mine a couple months ago. I used the extractor tool and did it without removing the entire rear trailing arm. There was no way that I could do it without an impact wrench. Removing the old bushing probably isn't possible using just hand tools.
Short procedure description:
1.) Mark the down arrow orientation of the old bushing on the trailing arm.
2.) Loosen inner LCA bolts
3.) Disconnect swaybar endlinks, UCA's, toe arms, shocks, and then the rear trailing arm.
3.) Pull the toe arm from the subframe.
4.) Secure the trailing arm to take some of the load off of the brake line.
5.) Install the tool, clip the clasp to the old bushing, and press the bushing out with an impact wrench. Righty-tighty.
6.) Remove the bushing and set the new bushing with the down arrow aligned with the mark you made on the trailing arm. You also need to make sure that the side of the bushing with the longer leg faces the axial centerline of the chasis.
7.) Install the tool and drive the bushing into the trailing arm until you have 10 to 12mm of protrusion of the bushing sleeve from the trailing arm.
8.) Re-assemble that side.
Always do one side at a time.
The directions for tool usage and bushing replacement are on the inside of the extractor tool case lid.
Modified by IN VTEC at 9:31 PM 11/16/2007
52385-SR3-000
'94+ Integra's used a different bushing. I'm guessing the diameter is different.
See Service Bulletion 00-006 at the dealership, or I can e-mail it to you.
I did mine a couple months ago. I used the extractor tool and did it without removing the entire rear trailing arm. There was no way that I could do it without an impact wrench. Removing the old bushing probably isn't possible using just hand tools.
Short procedure description:
1.) Mark the down arrow orientation of the old bushing on the trailing arm.
2.) Loosen inner LCA bolts
3.) Disconnect swaybar endlinks, UCA's, toe arms, shocks, and then the rear trailing arm.
3.) Pull the toe arm from the subframe.
4.) Secure the trailing arm to take some of the load off of the brake line.
5.) Install the tool, clip the clasp to the old bushing, and press the bushing out with an impact wrench. Righty-tighty.
6.) Remove the bushing and set the new bushing with the down arrow aligned with the mark you made on the trailing arm. You also need to make sure that the side of the bushing with the longer leg faces the axial centerline of the chasis.
7.) Install the tool and drive the bushing into the trailing arm until you have 10 to 12mm of protrusion of the bushing sleeve from the trailing arm.
8.) Re-assemble that side.
Always do one side at a time.
The directions for tool usage and bushing replacement are on the inside of the extractor tool case lid.
Modified by IN VTEC at 9:31 PM 11/16/2007
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Re: (EG2Driver)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EG2Driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it doesnt matter when the bushings are coming off tho. You don't want to lube anything when you put them back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha... I had to replace mine just this past summer. Honest to god, just set em on fire and burn the rest of the rubber... heat up the surrounding metal as well... then just use a good old hammer and socket.
When you put the new ones back in... you can greese the surrounding metal enclosure around the bushing. This is perfectly fine.
it doesnt matter when the bushings are coming off tho. You don't want to lube anything when you put them back in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha... I had to replace mine just this past summer. Honest to god, just set em on fire and burn the rest of the rubber... heat up the surrounding metal as well... then just use a good old hammer and socket.
When you put the new ones back in... you can greese the surrounding metal enclosure around the bushing. This is perfectly fine.
#18
Re: (quicksilver1689)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i got some prothane ones, there of the full floating design, lubed them up there quiet, and i have had zero problems with em
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so whatchu lubed it up wit? jus wanted to kno cuz sum of my buddies prothanes are squeaking... anywayz i ran into this trailing arm "spherical bearing kit" from JHPUSA.com anyone know if theyre gud???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so whatchu lubed it up wit? jus wanted to kno cuz sum of my buddies prothanes are squeaking... anywayz i ran into this trailing arm "spherical bearing kit" from JHPUSA.com anyone know if theyre gud???
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