97civicgirl

My new low mile JDM engine should arrive this week, but I am not planning to do the swap right away. From what I can tell, to properly care for the new engine, I need to remove valve cover and lube by squirting oil into each cylinder and hand cranking engine. Is there an advantage to using either Amsoil or CRC engine fogging oil product instead?

Also, I am finding conflicting information on whether to bag it or not. Some say bag to keep it lubricated and to prevent rusting, but others say it’s better to leave it unsealed with a blanket draped over it. Another site I read recommended putting engine into a large Tupperware tub and duct taping it shut instead of using a bag.

Any tips on what you guys would do to inspect and treat the new engine upon receipt, prior to storing it in a garage for a month?

Thanks!!

foo fighters

Just fill it up w/ oil to the brim and it can sit for years. I have one Honda d15b7 stored in oil, and had a 1941 Studebaker engine(flat head inline six)that was stored this way for 16 years and my dad is driving it too and from swap meets w/ it in his 41' commander.(DIY Restoration takes real time)

foo fighters

never let it just sit ,rust will coat the cylinder walls. moisture can still creep in a tote.

canadaek

just have to remove spark plugs to fog the cylinder not the valve cover. if you can store the engine somewear with low humidity a blanket should be fine some tape over the throttle body and other openings (coolant ports vacume fittings) to keep dirt and critters out is a good idea . drain the oil and replace it with fresh stuff turn it over every now and then

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

My engine sat on the floor of my basement for 2 months before the snow melted enough to complete the swap.
Tape over the throttle body, coolant ports, vacuum ports/lines
Pull spark plugs and drop a tbsp oil into each cylinder, then crank engine over a few revolutions, replace spark plugs.
I just draped mine with a blanket, we both live in low humidity area, less than 30% on average, so you should be fine for a month.

If I was a little closer, I'd offer to help, but Park city is a 3 hr drive.

Oh and while it's sitting on the floor of the garage, it would be the perfect time to replace the timing belt, timing belt tensioner and water pump. Also have all the tune up items, spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap and rotor, pcv valve, fuel filter, air filter, etc. You can get them all order and ready to go, so when you do go to complete the swap, everything goes smooth and your not stuck waiting for a small part.

97civicgirl

tlarimer, yes... your weather is the same as mine, which is why I thought it might be ok to drape blanket on it to get through worst of winter here.

Darn about you being so close and yet so far. I'm pretty new to working on cars and this project is scary to me. Any help would be awesome!

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

If you were storing it for longer than a month, I might reconsider just using a blanket. But mine was stored in the basement, climate controlled, not a garage.

Almost everyone here on H-T is more than willing to help, where they can. Get yourself a good repair manual and take your time. I remember my first engine swap back in 1993, it took me all weekend to complete, now I can pull an engine in a little over an hour. If you get real stumped, ask questions, you can PM me and I can respond via text or call to get you over the rough spot. It's just a long drive in the weather we are having lately.

Also, how is the cluthc on your current engine? If it's questionable, might as well replace it while the engine/trans are out of the car. You will kick yourself if you don't and the clutch goes out running Parley's 6 months later.

97civicgirl

After your helpful tip to replace timing belt and tensioner while waiting to do swap, I think I will bring the engine inside my house to play with it. I already purchased new front/rear crankshaft seals that I wanted to install too.

You drop an engine in an hour? How long to complete the swap? How many engines have your swapped? Geez, I could drive to your house in my civic and have you swap my engine faster than it will take me to do myself at home or even to pay a local shop to do!

Clutch was replaced 14 months ago, when tranny bearings were done, but I have noticed just recently that it is sometimes not sliding into the middle gears easily, especially when downshifting. Damn if I didn't know to have the mechanic replace rear main seal when having tranny work done.

tlarimer

iTrader: (3)

The prep work is what takes the longest, but on average a swap can be completed, taking my time, in roughly 6-8 hrs including swapping trans from one engine to the other. I have pulled roughly 30 Honda engines, maybe 18 or so swaps. I am by no means an expert, but I am meticulous in the work I do and don't take short cuts.

I'd offer to let you bring it up here, but I don't have a garage, I do all my work on a cement slab right outside the french door leading into my basement, so I don't do engine swaps until May...haha

97civicgirl

Impressive. I am expecting it to take me 4-5 days, if I'm lucky. lol

Thanks for the advice about proper storage for the new engine I pre-maturely purchased. I don't want to ruin it while it sits around waiting for me to figure out what to do.

canadaek

what did you buy for an engine ???

97civicgirl

canadaek, I bought a 1.6L, D16Y7 complete long block. When I purchased it last week, I mistakenly believed my current engine with 175,000 miles had sustained serious damage after driving it with too little oil due to a bad rear main seal leak. Come to find out, my current engine is perfectly good, but I still have to deal with that nasty leak... so I am probably going to go ahead with the R/I... but there is no rush at this point to get it done so long as I remember to keep oil topped off.

canadaek

you risk getting oil on the clutch if it leaks bad enough (spray off of the fly wheel )

97civicgirl

canadaek, I hope it is ok that I just sent you a pm with questions rather than reply here and have the thread go off topic on how to care for current engine with a bad oil leak.