hefftone79

Sup folks,

I need to remove the brake prop valve from my civic for a rear disc conversion. Thing is, those lines are tight as sheeot! I'm using a 6 point 10mm flare nut wrench, and they still want to round off.
I was wondering if honda used some sort of thread locker on the threads, and if a little heat from a propane torch would help. The brake lines are empty, but then again, there are rubber seals in there.
I guess I'll hit it with some PB Blaster, but if there are any tricks, i'd certainly appreciate it.

waaBAAH

there are no rubber seals on those brake lines.

there might be rubber seals inside the proportioning valve but you are replacing that so no need to worry about damaging the rubber seals inside the proportioning valve.

heat is an option but do be careful..brake fluid when enclosed kind of shots out in little smoke screen dust particles when heated up and opened. it looks cool as hell though!!!

if you dont mind replacing all the lines you can cut the lines right above the 10 mil nut. then take a ten mil 6 point socket and loosen it.

boostatic

worse case just use sum vise grips..thats usually wut i use..

forcefedferio

soak them in Marvel Mystery Oil, that stuff makes PB Blaster look like a joke. also use a 10mm line wrench not just a standard box end wrench.

hefftone79

Holy crap, removing that prop valve was the biggest beotch! I wish i had swapped it while the engine was out. My flare nut wrench couldn't get much of an angle. I had to use a propane torch, PB Blaster, vice grips, a flare nut wrench, and open end wrench just to undo the lines. THEN, there was that damn lower nut for the bracket. What a freaking ordeal!!!! And after all that sh*t, the DA prop valve bracket won't even fit. What a pain in the ***! And my fittings are sorta beat up now.

uberEFtuner

To fix the fittings its easy to replace them. just slide them down and cut off the flared part of the tubing. Then replace the fittings and re flare the tubing. You should be able to stretch the lines enough to make it fit. Obviously you need a flaring tool.

hefftone79

The saga continues...

I disassembled the civic propvalve to steal the bracket. I drilled out the spot welds to remove the tab for the lower mounting bolt. Man, these bastards are tough to get apart. A vice helps. I had a crappy allen wrech style torx that fit, but no socket to use with a ratchet. I finally got it done and reassembled.....but oh no. I put the damn bracket on incorrectly....so I get to do it all over again. I'll get there eventually, but I see why the DC valve is the one to get,...using a DA valve is a huge pain in the butt, so the extra money would be well spent. ONWARD!

jtmartin96civic

yea... prop valves majorly suck with the engine in the bay. I could only get like an 1/8th of a turn on them while i was doing them... an hour later and a terribly sore back and it was done though.

luispizarro25

hey man so i see you took your prop valve out... im having issues with mine... so far two fittings have almost stripped and i dont want it to get any worst. took already 2 fittings out luckly but i was wondering how good was that PB blaster, i do have a flare nut wrench. can you recommend anything in special?

94EG8

Small curved jaw vice grips seem to work the best, even flare nut wrenches seem to strip the fittings. I've done swapped the prop valve on B-series swapped '92 Si before, not fun.