rugimpy

I have a 93 civic lx and the car has about 300,000 miles on it. The engine still runs and there are no major problems now but its starting to get loud and just generally worn down. I found a shop in San Diego that sells a completely rebuilt d16y7 for 600 or 900 installed. This includes belts, distributor and all. Now I am not looking for power at all. I actually go more for MPG if anything but I just want to know that I dont have to worry about my engine for a few years. Does this sound like a good deal? Does anyone have any recommendations on other shops or online places? Thanks all!

SpoonfedCivic

Hmm... Well, yeah I think a fully rebuilt y7 with warranty for $600 is pretty fair. Now you do know you will have to get a 96-98 engine harness. But it is all really simple, your transmission should bolt right up to that motor as well. I say buy the motor and swap it yourself, cause I'm not sure you can buy a y7 and rebuild it for less than $600. Maybe you can, and I'm sure others will chime in on this as well. Good luck.

rugimpy

Yea, im just not confident enough in my skills yet to attempt an engine rebuilt so I would rather buy it for piece of mind? Would it be worth the extra 300 to have a shop install it for warranty issues and to adjust timing and such? Thanks all for the input! And if anyone recommends any other places please let me know.

92lxsleeper

don't buy a y7. they are junk. get a d16z6.

EJ8_Man

Well.. "junk" is not the correct word. The y7 is reliable as hell, and great on gas. It's just not very powerful.

rugimpy

Well I dont need power. I need reliability and good gas mileage. Is the y7 the way to go?

rugimpy

I also want to do a direct swap. Dont need the y8 and want to make it as simple as possible. Do the jdm engines usually come with a warranty or rebuilt? Would a replacement jem engine be worth looking into? Im not even sure if they are legal in my car here in California.

SpoonfedCivic

Yes, the y7 is the way to go for reliability and a gas saver. And if you can match it up with the s20 a000 or s40 a000 transmission you will really have a nice gas saver. And if you don't feel confident in doing a motor swap yourself, $300 is not a bad price for a shop to do the install themselves, and give it warranty.

rugimpy

Ok thanks for the input. How about JDM engines? Would this rebuilt USDM be a better deal? Thanks.

98civdx

Wrong, he CANNOT use a 96-00 harness, without a lot of cutting and splicing.

It will far easier to use the orginal harness.

rugimpy

Yea, I was thinking the harness would be the same considering its the same engine. Thanks all!

SpoonfedCivic

So it would be easier to use the 92-95 engine harness on the y7 then? The plugs are the same? Good to know.

98civdx

No, not all the plugs are the same.
There are some differences with OBD1 and OBD2.

But those pieces should eaisly bolt onto the y7, as far as I know.

92-95 use a 2 piece harness, and 96-00 uses a 1 piece harness.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

If he's replacing like for like then there should not be an issue with a USDM engine.

rugimpy

Thats what I was thinking.

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

I would also go with the z6 versus the y7 for reliability even if vtec is not hooked up, y7/y8 are known to have troublesome bottom ends although I still llike the y7/y8 but the z6 is tough as nails.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Care to elaborate? I run a boosted Y8. I have no issues with the bottom end components.

jiggatone

Can you pm me how your service went if you do get it done.Its the one that's posted on craigslist right?if its that one I'm thinking abouut doing it as well

SpoonfedCivic

Yeah I would like to know why the y7/y8 is inferior compared to the z6. What about the blocks that,"suck" compared to the z6 bottom end?

98civdx

Y8's have been know to have issues with spun rod bearings.

Z6 bottom ends are considerd better by many, becuase they don't have the problem that Y8's do.

This is just what I have seen on here. My y7 has 210k on it and it is just fine.

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

True that 98civdx,was trying to remember where so I could provide a link but in a nutshell Honda or should I say the crank maker for Honda or both decided to change either the hardnening technique or process or alloy mix don't quite remember (but I am sure it was a cost saving move) but the finished product was quite different from all the previous cranks fellas take this with a grain a salt and don't quote me on this I could be dreaming lol

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Wow. A lot of misinformation and uninformed statements. OP. The engine sounds like a good idea and you have a solid idea on what you are doing. You should have no issues whatsoever.

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

About what exactly? Please be specific. We don't need any around here.


The 5th gen D series motors have TWO oil galleys per rod journal.
The 6th gen D motors only have ONE oil galley for each rod journal.
This design change has been blamed for being more prone rod bearing
failure for the simple fact that LESS oil is supplied to those areas of
the crank. Less holes, less oil.

Yes I have personally compared the two cranks of both gens.

I have an idea that the Y7's tall gearing doesn't help either. More strain
at low rpm where oil flow/psi is also low. Just a theory.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

This misinformation.

Hardening technique or process? Alloy mix?
Yes I know all about the difference in the cranks but people are trying to make it sound like Y8's and Y7s are spinning bearings every time you turn around but that just isn't true. Especially if the engine is well maintained. They are both reliable platforms. I don't recall that many, if any, stock engines having any problems in this area. Only when we're talking forced induction and inadequate oil pressure do I see problems being reported.

94EG8

The only big issue is California. My understanding is that all components have to match the engine, including, intake, exhaust, ECU etc. If it was any other state where you could just swap the intake and exhaust, and run it on a P06 I'd say go for it. But I'd check this out with the appropriate authorities first before you spend any money on this.

Finally, someone that knows what they're talking about. All you ever used to hear was "the Y8 oil pump sucks" which just isn't true, the Z6 pump as I recall is marginally better, but the real issue was the lack of oiling holes.

I've got a pretty good idea that you're right about that, but you'd have to be lugging the engine.

There's been a fair number of stock ones that blew up too. Most were beat on or run low on oil though. Bottom line: The Z6 is tougher. But if you treat a Y7/Y8 well and don't rev the **** out of it, it should last.