switching to synthetic prons/cons
#1
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switching to synthetic *****/cons
ok im considering switching to synthetic motor oil. the kind of driving i do:
in town..some stop and go stuff (not heavy L.A. style), high revving, open throttle, some longer drives (30+ minute interstate drives)
now my questions:
first, is this a good choice, to switch to synthetic? i've heard great things and then i've heard 'rumors' of bad things about it
second....i was wondering if i could just go straight to synthetic or should i change my oil with a synthetic blend such as castrols syntec blend?
and third...i'm thinking of going with mobil 1....what do you guys recommend for your favorite?
thanks
in town..some stop and go stuff (not heavy L.A. style), high revving, open throttle, some longer drives (30+ minute interstate drives)
now my questions:
first, is this a good choice, to switch to synthetic? i've heard great things and then i've heard 'rumors' of bad things about it
second....i was wondering if i could just go straight to synthetic or should i change my oil with a synthetic blend such as castrols syntec blend?
and third...i'm thinking of going with mobil 1....what do you guys recommend for your favorite?
thanks
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Switching to synthetic is never a bad idea. Contrary to popular belief you DONT need some sort of stepped transition from dino to synthetic. Just switch.
Lastly, Mobil1 is good, i would go with Amsoil or Motul though. Just my .02
Lastly, Mobil1 is good, i would go with Amsoil or Motul though. Just my .02
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (mountaindewguy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mountaindewguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok im considering switching to synthetic motor oil. the kind of driving i do:
in town..some stop and go stuff (not heavy L.A. style), high revving, open throttle, some longer drives (30+ minute interstate drives)
now my questions:
first, is this a good choice, to switch to synthetic? i've heard great things and then i've heard 'rumors' of bad things about it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like said before its always good to go to a synthetic as long as you dont have a really old engine that burns oil and like 200,000 miles
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mountaindewguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">second....i was wondering if i could just go straight to synthetic or should i change my oil with a synthetic blend such as castrols syntec blend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go straight to a synthetic
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mountaindewguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and third...i'm thinking of going with mobil 1....what do you guys recommend for your favorite?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I olny run Mobil1 in my car. It is great oil!
in town..some stop and go stuff (not heavy L.A. style), high revving, open throttle, some longer drives (30+ minute interstate drives)
now my questions:
first, is this a good choice, to switch to synthetic? i've heard great things and then i've heard 'rumors' of bad things about it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like said before its always good to go to a synthetic as long as you dont have a really old engine that burns oil and like 200,000 miles
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mountaindewguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">second....i was wondering if i could just go straight to synthetic or should i change my oil with a synthetic blend such as castrols syntec blend?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go straight to a synthetic
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mountaindewguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and third...i'm thinking of going with mobil 1....what do you guys recommend for your favorite?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I olny run Mobil1 in my car. It is great oil!
#6
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (TurboEM1)
i ran synth in mine all the way up to 138k miles or so, never had any problems at all. and changing the oil and plugs was really the only thing i ever did to that motor as far as service.....well, belts once too
#7
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (TurboEM1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like said before its always good to go to a synthetic as long as you dont have a really old engine that burns oil and like 200,000 miles</TD></TR></TABLE>
i understand the burning oil part....as it would get expensive....but why don't you want to go synthetic in a high mileage engine?
i understand the burning oil part....as it would get expensive....but why don't you want to go synthetic in a high mileage engine?
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#8
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (mountaindewguy)
I've heard that once you switch to synthetic oil in an older motor (80k +), that the deposits from standard oil (due to lesser solutions) formed around the seals of your cams, gaskets, etc can leak from the stronger solutions found in synthetic oils due to the removal of the deposits.
#9
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (LSEGHATCH)
I've been using royal purple for the last few oil changes. It was recommended by a friend. Is it any good? I know for sure that **** is expensive it better be good.
#10
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (JDubbs99Civic)
If you are going to change to fully synthetic I would reccomend Motul 8100 5w30 EcoTech full synthetic. Oil is right around $7.10 per litre (1 litre= 1.01 Quarts). Motul is the best oil that is out there.
#12
Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (mountaindewguy)
Running pure synthetic is never a bad idea unless you are leaking oil but it is just that it gets super expensive then to keep re-filling it.
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (93ejay1)
Mobil1 is great oil... but how bout Royal Purple? Like that kid asked, ne body got opp. on royal purple, other than "its too much $". Cause u gotta pay for the best....
#15
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (mountaindewguy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mountaindewguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i understand the burning oil part....as it would get expensive....but why don't you want to go synthetic in a high mileage engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant it that you can put it in a high mileage motor but if u experience a loss of oil from burning or leaks then just use some cheap stuff.
i understand the burning oil part....as it would get expensive....but why don't you want to go synthetic in a high mileage engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant it that you can put it in a high mileage motor but if u experience a loss of oil from burning or leaks then just use some cheap stuff.
#16
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (TurboEM1)
ahh i see.....cause one of the 'myths' i've herad is the deposits around the seals leaking like said above....but as i've heard synthetic oil is to help recondition seals and such? that would do the opposite...
#17
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (mountaindewguy)
sorry to thread jack but is it fine for me to jump to 10w30? im at 5w30 mobil 1 and thats for winter and im just getting ready for the summer and want to switch to 10w
#18
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (spoonef)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to thread jack but is it fine for me to jump to 10w30? im at 5w30 mobil 1 and thats for winter and im just getting ready for the summer and want to switch to 10w</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, its absolutely fine.
For all those wondering, this is how i did my engine break in.
Startup on OEM Honda 5w-30 Oil. Drained after 50 miles.
Re-fill with OEM Honda 5w-30 oil and a new OEM filter. Drained after 500 miles.
Re-fill with OEM Honda 5w-30 oil and a new OEM filter. Drained after 1000 miles.
Switch to AMSOIL XL7500 5W-30 for the next 3000 miles.
Switched to Mobil1 0w-30 Race Oil for the next 3000 miles.
Switched to Motul 300v 5w-30 and havent changed.
Yes, its absolutely fine.
For all those wondering, this is how i did my engine break in.
Startup on OEM Honda 5w-30 Oil. Drained after 50 miles.
Re-fill with OEM Honda 5w-30 oil and a new OEM filter. Drained after 500 miles.
Re-fill with OEM Honda 5w-30 oil and a new OEM filter. Drained after 1000 miles.
Switch to AMSOIL XL7500 5W-30 for the next 3000 miles.
Switched to Mobil1 0w-30 Race Oil for the next 3000 miles.
Switched to Motul 300v 5w-30 and havent changed.
#19
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Re: switching to synthetic *****/cons (LsVtec92Hatch)
For those wondering about which synthetic is better:
Any synthetic is a better choice than dino oil. This is due mainly to viscosity control, variable weights and thermal characteristics. There is no need to worry about which synthetic is better unless you are a:
1) Track car
2) High mileage car
3) Running extended drain intervals
If anybody cares, I can provide links to tests over many, many miles that compares how different synthetics respond to the higher drain intervals. Bottom line--Mobil 1 lasted over 15K miles before being even remotely considered "ripe". Since most of you are running no more than 5K intervals, I highly doubt you need to worry about the differences. Now, if you are running a track only car, then you need to worry about the additives package that each synthetic runs---this category also includes high mileage motors.
Jon
Any synthetic is a better choice than dino oil. This is due mainly to viscosity control, variable weights and thermal characteristics. There is no need to worry about which synthetic is better unless you are a:
1) Track car
2) High mileage car
3) Running extended drain intervals
If anybody cares, I can provide links to tests over many, many miles that compares how different synthetics respond to the higher drain intervals. Bottom line--Mobil 1 lasted over 15K miles before being even remotely considered "ripe". Since most of you are running no more than 5K intervals, I highly doubt you need to worry about the differences. Now, if you are running a track only car, then you need to worry about the additives package that each synthetic runs---this category also includes high mileage motors.
Jon
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