phrenzykEG6

So I'm still having the same problem... So far nothing has worked.

I have a jdm d15b in my hatch, the idle fluxes from about 1000ish to 1500 over and over and over its really annoying and im trying to get the car smogged. I thought I had a vac leak by the intake manifold gasket, I changed the intake manifold gasket, I bought a new IACV, I cleaned the FITV, the air filter... The coolant is getting a lot of bubbles, I KNOW that has something to do with it but I cant figure out why the coolant is getting that many bubbles, I'm going to change the thermostat this weekend and check the coolant temperature sensor( if I can locate where it is ). My friend was telling me that maybe my coolant/water mixture is way off too... so i've been adding water as I thought fit because it does have more coolant than water after I thought about it.

When I'm driving and its not fully warmed up and i go to neutral to stop at a light or whatever... as im slowing down the idle fluxes... then when it comes to a full stop, it just stays at about 1200 rpms... I know thats like 500 more than its supposed to be, but when its FULLY warmed up... it just fluxes constantly... when the car isnt warmed up there is barely any bubbles in the coolant when i take the cap off, but when I take the cap off when its fully warm it bubbles like crazy. what else...

I warm up the car before I drive it, and if I drive on the freeway my temp sensor goes all the way down... Its either letting out too much coolant and cools down to much or the coolant temp sensor is bad... Could this also be a problem?

I'm just really tired of not being able to smog it, it should be a fairly easy smog to pass... its a small motor... i fixed the timing... If anyone can suggest more or have has this problem and fixed it, let me know. For now all I can think of is the thermostat... So I'm gonna change that.

shogee

well if there is no vacuum leak then adjust the base idle down. because if it idles too high it'll cause that surge.

shogee

you cant do that by
1)warming up the engine
2)take off the iacv connector.
3)start car and let idle down.
4) spec should be somewhere from 450-550 rpm. and you adjust that by turning the screw on the throttle body.
5)put everything back together and you should be good

fredrocs

it's got a blown headgasket and the idle surges because of the trapped air (exhaust) in the cooling system. that causes an air pocket and the iac valve will stay stuck open! hope this helps. you can confirm this if you drive down to a smog station or if you have some type of device that can detect hydrocarbons and sniff the radiator fill hole where the bubbles are coming out. if it were the t-stat the car would overheat or stay abnormally cold all the time.

NVS_RSX

Do a block test you can get the kit at autozone or kragen. It'll tell you if you have a blown head gasket.

As far as the FIFV make sure you adjust that valve down more if your idling to high or your idle fluctuates like crazy, it help my idle when I screwed it all the way down, I still have a slight idle fluctuation once in awhile but its not annoying.

I think you should replace the throttle body with an aftermarket one and get rid of the FIFV altogether. Im gonna get a new TB valve later when I got money.

phrenzykEG6

Shogee... Forgot to mention that the throttle body screw is all the way in buddy... So that's won't work lol.

c0ntra

When I pull a vac line on my car, the idle shoots up to ~1500. It sounds like it could still be a vac leak somewhere. As for the bubbles in the coolant, make sure your thermostat isnt stuck closed. is the coolant return hose hot or only luke warm? If its working fine, then as someone else mentioned, the only other reason for bubbles is probably headgasket failure

phrenzykEG6

Coolant return hose I'd assume is the top one and it's running hot... The bottom hose is as well, I'm gonna change the thermostat anyways and see what that does for me... As I've said before, the throttle mixture screw on the TB Is all the way in... And I'm still idling at like 1200 fully warm unless it's fluxing... So something major is going on and the head gasket is major lol so I think that might be it, I've never changed one but taking it somewhere is hella expensive, well at least Pepboys is lol.

Solster

Check the oil. if it looks like a milk shake something is up in the head or head gasket.

when the car is Cold pull the rad cap and start the car if you get bubbles right away your head needs to come off as you will have a head gasket problem or a craked head it's the only place you can get bubbles in the cooling systen if the car is not boiling the cooliant.

If you end up pulling the head get it magna fluxed at a machine shop this will find any cracks in the head if you have any.

phrenzykEG6

There is No bubbles when it's cold, well very little ones and not constant.. So I'm gonna change the t stat and I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks all.

Solster

any bubbles when cold is a head. the bubbles get worse as it heats up from the expansion of the metals making the crack get bigger. it's the head yours is F-ed up.

phrenzykEG6

A crack in the head huh? Nothing would leak if the head is cracked?

NVS_RSX

if you have bubbles when your car is warm you have a problem in your head, headgasket or block. Do a block test it'll tell you if you have one of those symptoms

phrenzykEG6

So i recently changed the ecu to a virgin p28 because i had a chipped p28 in it, and I wanted to smog the car, today I put the chipped one back in, and it doesn't flux anymore I think the iacv is disabled on the ecu... But that doesn't mean I don't have a problem... I know it's not gonna smog the way it is... I'm gonna try to change the HG oil tstat and get a radiator flush... I really hope the head or block isn't warped or cracked... That's my worse case scenario.

fredrocs

good luck!

HandleTech

X2
Before u waste any more of your life, Forensic face:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=341697
GO GET ONE OF THESE and USE IT

ej_17

have the same problem, im going to change my head gasket soon so ill let you know it if works