vdjxj

Hey honda tech
I have a b18b1 in a 94 hatch I just bought this car about a month ago it was driving just fine till my car just shut off and started to fall on its face I pulled over and tryed to start it. It turned over for a sec the rpm was bouncing up and down then died. I took it to a shop and they said my timing had slipped two teeth so I paid 650$ for them to replace all of it. It didn't resolve the issue. I've been doing some research on it and have got nowhere. I am broke and as someone who barley know much about it not to confident. Did a compression test 1cyl.-155 2cyl -160 3cyl-155 4cyl-160. I replaced the fuel pump and it fixed the idle problem but when I go to accelerate from a stop it'll stumble bad then die. I need help please!! Any advise will be appreciated thanks

Former User

Get a refund.

All of what?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Buy/borrow/rent a timing light, and check your ignition timing.

delsolintegra

Post a picture of the detailed bill/receipt.

Let's see what they said they did.

Cross out your personal info.

vdjxj

They replaced the water pump, timing belt, and the tensioner. Seems as if they didn't even want to touch my car. I'm new to this so I'll post a pic as soon as I can. And I'll look forward to that

Former User

You paid $625 for this^ and the problem continues. That's unacceptable. Bring your car back to the shop and demand a refund or a proper fix. You don't need a forum. You need a small claims court judge whose name is Judy.

vdjxj

I would if I can drive it. Had my buddy towed it and almost ripped my bumper off. It'll drive if I dump my clutch but that's not how I drive my baby. But I live in a small town so my options are limited. I'll call the shop tomorrow about the refund. It's 30 miles from where I live. And it cost more in labor then the parts

Former User

$625 and no fix. Dude, get mad. You got ripped off.

vdjxj

I've been burnt for days. Would the timing cause my car to do this? I've been told it could be water is my gas and a million other problems. Not sure where to start

Former User

Where to start? The mechanic who ripped you off.

vdjxj

For sure I'll keep you updated

delsolintegra

Things you can do that don't cost money but are important to check.

Pull the spark plugs and check their color and gap and overall condition.

Check the distributor cap contacts for corrosion and the rotor.

If you have a cold air intake make sure the air filter is not forced too far on to the intake tube to cause an internal blockage to air flow.

What ECU are you running? Any CEL lights?

Clean the IACV, check the Throttle position sensor and the engine coolant temp sensor.

If you have a friend with the similar engine try swapping distributors.

tony_2018

Bad idea, don't touch ****!!! Take it back to have them fix it or refund.

vdjxj

Thing is I gave them the approval to replace my timing so I don't think I can get a refund. He couldn't even find the obd port to do a diagnosis so I don't know if I want to bring it back. They said they have never worked on a modded car
I'm running a pr4 ecu and it's not throwing any codes

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I have a feeling that the shop you took your car to is staffed by morons. Did you give them approval to do the timing belt because it was due, or because they told you it would fix the problem? When you picked up your car, was the problem fixed and redeveloped, or was it not fixed as soon as you pulled out of their lot?

vdjxj

They said the timming slipped two teeth I asked if they could adjust it but they didn't want to but they would rather replace all of it of course. And I had a job at the time so it didn't matter. And I live in a small town the shop was 30 miles away. And it didn't resolve the issue they couldn't find out why my car broke down

existanzcivicb20

if the car was not fixed why did u ever take it out of the shop? at that point you should have had a fit until they gave you your money back.

Is it a big corporate shop? if so threaten that you will call corporate and place a complaint on them.

try to have them tow the car back to them at their cost and at least get the money back for the labor.

vdjxj

Not a big shop they only have two of them. And I took it cause when I brought it there they had no idea what was wrong with it. My car sat there for weeks. There stupid that's why I don't want them to touch my car I feel like I could have done a better job. It was the only shop that had good reviews.

delsolintegra

Info on the PR4 ECU.
OBD 0 or OBD 1 ?

https://honda-tech.com/engine-manage...4-ecu-1852642/


Also, are you sure the CEL light works? Does it come on briefly when you first start the car?

I'm just wondering if the swap was done correctly?

vdjxj

I'm not sure if it's obd1 or 0 how can you tell? And the cel does come on for a couple seconds then turns off

delsolintegra

Sounds like you have OBD 1 if the CEL light on the dashboard works.

OBD 0 there is no dashboard CEL light but rather a blinking cel light window on the side of the body of the ECU. You have to peel back the carpeting to read your cel codes in OBD 0.

Maybe if you gave your location somebody on this forum lives by you and they could come look under the hood. It might be a wire harness splice or a bad ground wire connection like on the thermostat housing. A lot of shops don't want to diagnose a electrical problem on somebody else's swap. The diagnostic hour costs could soon overtake the value of the car.

If there ever was a accident they don't want the liability of having worked on a swapped "hot rodded" civic.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

This entire ramble is woefully inaccurate, and painfully incorrect.

First off, a shop doesn't care about the cost, or the value of the car. They build an estimate. They quote that estimate to you. You approve or deny. If you deny, you pay for diagnostic time, and pick up your car. If you approve, they do the work, and test to see if the problem is solved. If it is, you pay them, and pick up your car. If it isn't, they call you with a new estimate, you approve or deny, rinse and repeat. They'll keep doing the work until you decline an estimate. If you fail or refuse to pay, they put a lien on your title, take you to court, take possession of your car, and do whatever they please with it. At no point in this process do they care about the cost to you. They only care about turning a profit.

Second off, liability? Do I even need to tell you how wrong that is? There's no liability for the shop as long as they follow the law, and guess what? They're gonna follow the law.

Now then, misinformation handled, let's get back to diagnostics. OP, since your CEL is off, and is working, I'll reiterate what I said. Either buy/borrow/rent a timing light and check your ignition timing, or take it back to the shop and pay them to unfuck your car. If you want to do it yourself, we can help you. If you want to pay the shop to do it, well, you're on your own there.

vdjxj

I want to do it myself. I was hoping you guys would give me advise on how to fix my car. Not complain to the shop. And I'm jobless cause of this.

Ohmega

iTrader: (1)

You lost your job over this?

If I were you I'd stop ******* with a 20 year old car and buy a newer, more reliable vehicle.
But since you already have ample time on your hands, let's get to fixing it :D

vdjxj

That's what I want to hear. Ya my boss said I could get my job back but I will never have time to fix it.