jordan88

Hi, i have a 98 civic coupe d16y8 5spds, i am still having problem with my idling whenever i put the gear back to neutral, the rpm would go down to 700 rpm then jump up to very close to 1100rpm, then it will slowly go back down to 700, cause this never happen before. is this normal?

I have checked compression, replaced spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, map sensors, both O2 sensors, cleaned EACV, and throttle body. checked eacv voltage at 13.1 ohms, check idle screw on throttle, its set right.

I currently have aem cai and catback exhast. Sometime when weather get moisture and hot, it will throw a cel for fuel metering too rich. One thing that i do noticed that the car is sucking in more air than before.

please help.

Thank you.

civickid99

I swapped out my Idle air control valve and that fixed the problem.

jordan88

but i tested the ohms on it, its getting good ohms at 13.1 ohms tho, but would it still cause a problem?

thx

LostSolVTEC

sometimes the IAC's get clogged or dirty, if ur careful u can pull it off, clean it out and put it back on without having to get new 0-rings

jordan88

I did clean the valve, but i didn't replace the o-ring, would that cause a problem?

thx

HondaVTEC93

it would hafta be the IAC or EAC for the newer ones, or the idle screw. i had the same problem. the o-ring should be replaced if messed up. a gap wouldnt help.

jordan88

I check the idle screw, and its good. The o-ring is still good. But what are my chances for defeated eacv, since its reading 13.1 ohms which its within range. cleaned it already. looks clean.

thx

HondaVTEC93

well then u have a gap somewhere that somethings not tight and airs getting in, thats the only other thing. make sure all of your bolts/screws are tight on the intake manifold, etc.

HondaVTEC93

theres nothing really wrong anyhow. if its cold then its normal. if its happening when warm that still doesnt make a difference mine idles at 800 fine, once in a while it will go to 1100, but it happens. its no biggy. if it was like how mine was before where it went from 900 to 2200 then u have a problem haha. the idles fine though.

DelSolSi93

Im having a smiliar problem on my D16z6. My idle is all over the place sometimes like 700 sometimes like 1100 most of the time too low like 500, I followed all the same steps, cleaned my IAC, checked the O ring, checked the idle screw, everything is fine and clean, fuel filter is good, plugs are new, wires are new, the IAC reads normal voltage and theres no CEL, I cant figure out WTF is going on, its almost this exact same problem, and like HondaVTEC93 said, its only when its warm, when the engine is cold it idles fine, can someone PLEASE help us?!?

DelSolSi93

bump

SkoundrelUSA

You think you guys got it bad. MY 94 Civic VX idles at like 100 maybe less. It touches the pin thats suppose to hold the needle. It really sucks. One time this summer the car actually turned off for a split second and somehow came back to life! Civic is still running though.

speedfreek128

take ur fast idle valve off....its under tb usually....remove coverplate and turn clockwise with flathead....helped my idle

jordan88

i am having the exact problem, atleast very similar, i just replaced both the O2 sensors like 6 months ago, i dun think they can go back again, but i think i will take them out to double check this weekend. If u have anything, let me know.

By the way, if i cleaned the EACV and the voltage is good, what are the chances that the EACV will go bad, its just a spring inside right?

thx

Mike_C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jordan88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i tested the ohms on it, its getting good ohms at 13.1 ohms tho, but would it still cause a problem?

thx</TD></TR></TABLE>

curious, how did you test that?

EvilPinkEye

well i had this damn problem too, changed this, cleaned that, tightened this thingy, and went nuts, until one day i read somewhere here " check ur throttle cable, maybe sticking",
so when i park or at the light and the idle starts to jump, i sneak my foot behind the gas pedal and volia, the problem stops..so i say check/adjust the cable.

mjrage

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelJComputer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

curious, how did you test that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He's only testing the sensor I believe. It can still be bad since the iacv is not necessarily running off the sensor or some sort of electronic system. He's testing the fact that the iacv to ecu continuity is good not the actual functionality of the part itself.

zurg

i got exactly the same problem for 6 month now !! That drive me crazy ! I clean the iacv , change spark plug , change distributor , clean TB , adjust valves . Maybe i sould try the fast idle valve screw , after this , i have no idea what to do to have good idle !

At cold , idle are fine , until the temp start rising , after this its goes up and down , 1100 -700-1100-550-700... and etc. Also when i do a stop , press the clutch , the idle drop at like 550-600 rpm and the car almost die !

This is really annoying !

thisisntjared

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedfreek128 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take ur fast idle valve off....its under tb usually....remove coverplate and turn clockwise with flathead....helped my idle</TD></TR></TABLE>this was my problem adjust the fitv!

1slowhatchie

same goes for me

DelSolSi93

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zurg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got exactly the same problem for 6 month now !! That drive me crazy ! I clean the iacv , change spark plug , change distributor , clean TB , adjust valves . Maybe i sould try the fast idle valve screw , after this , i have no idea what to do to have good idle !

At cold , idle are fine , until the temp start rising , after this its goes up and down , 1100 -700-1100-550-700... and etc. Also when i do a stop , press the clutch , the idle drop at like 550-600 rpm and the car almost die !

This is really annoying !</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats my EXACT problem

DelSolSi93

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedfreek128 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take ur fast idle valve off....its under tb usually....remove coverplate and turn clockwise with flathead....helped my idle</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tried that no change, also is it bad to run your motor with that little cover plate off? I dont think this made a difference because this controls your high or fast idle right? the main problem here is with the warm idle

EE_Chris

When you say you 'checked the idle screw' - how did you check it - what did you check about it? Did you remove it or something?

DelSolSi93

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you say you 'checked the idle screw' - how did you check it - what did you check about it? Did you remove it or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I made adjustments to see if it would change or help the problem, adjusting the top normal idle screw had almost no effect on the idle whatsoever and the fast idle valve screw or whatever pretty much did nothing as far as I can tell too, the idle stayed the same in all cases and the problem continued

jordan88

fro some reason, i re-cleaned my eacv (idle air control valve), my rpm is worse now, driving the car, almost at stop lights, put gear back to neutral, rpm go down to 1000 then jumps back up to 1300 then slowly goes down to 800. but i didn't disconnect the battery this time. could that cause a problem or my eacv is dead. i know the screen part is all cleaned, o-ring replaced, the only thing i can think of somethings wrong with it, is where the 2 holds for the coolant holes is not good and not reading the correct engine temperture. thats just kinda my theory tho, would this happen?

thx