Yoitshector

2000 civic dx
As title says soeedometer not working checked fuses
Thanks for the help

Yoitshector

Also odometer and tripmeter neither work as well

Striker325

Check connection to the cluster.

Yoitshector

Pulled cluster already all is plugged in

fragmare

Pull the cluster, start car, engage e-brake, and shift into drive. Then test the main power wire going into the cluster for battery voltage with a multimeter. There should be voltage. If there's no voltage, you'll want to start tracing it backwards until you find the short.

If the cluster is getting voltage, check the solder joints on the back of the speedometer circuit board. If any have the "ring of death" crack, reflow the solder by touching a soldering tool to the joint until it melts. It might be necessary to add a little extra solder to the joint for it to make a good connection. If that is the case, use some small gauge rosin core solder.

Yoitshector

My apology forgot to mention car is a m/t.

Ryan Lwin

On the back of the cluster, there are 3 screws behind each gauge. Next to two of the screws, there's a + and - sign. Test the voltage on those with key ON position. Also, do the fuel and temp gauges work?

Yoitshector

Yes, fuel and temp gauge do work. I knew I should have grabbed the multimeter before I came to work

Ryan Lwin

That's weird. They are on same circuit for power supply. Test them individually with multimeter. Also, connect the meter to the sensor knot of the tachometer and ground with A/C voltage setting. Then, while keeping an eye on the meter, turn the car on. See if the voltage changes. Do the same for speedometer sensor knot but with DC voltage. See if the voltage jump up.

Tachometer is measured in frequancy. So you can only get the average value. Therefore, you can't measure the exact values with normal meter. You just have to look for the change in A/C voltage. Speedometer is measured in DC voltage change from 0 to 5 volts.

Yoitshector

My car is a dx model therefore there is no tach. Also, forgot to mention cel code 17 vss is on as well.

Ryan Lwin

Replace VSS. New is only 40 bucks. DX without tach? Should get it since it's manual. Tach is useful. 20 dollars at junk yard. The whole cluster.

Yoitshector

Replaced vss. Also, tested multiple vss as well. Ya I was thinking of getting with a tach but wanna preserve the mileage on car and all clusters I've seen have high mileage.

Ryan Lwin

Oh. Well, do the tests first. Maybe there's break in wire or something.

Millage can be change easily. Just take out the speedometer motor and you can just turn it. Although it is illegal to change it to anything beside your reported millage.

Yoitshector

I wouldn't know how to remove anything in the cluster that's why I haven't bought and yeah it is illegal but like I said I wanna preserve my mileage not do anything else than that

fragmare

Take a multimeter and poke around at any YEL or YEL/BLU wires. Not sure if the wire colors behind the cluster are the same on EKs as they are on EGs, but if they are, those two wire colors are the ones you want to test.

Also, you can easily preserve your mileage if you get a new cluster. Simply swap out the speedometer/odometer of the new cluster with your old one. No need to roll the odometer up or down then. I did that about a month ago, as my DX didn't have a tach either.

Yoitshector

Would I be poking around at the VSS female conenector or on the cluster side?

fragmare

Actually, since you're getting a VSS CEL light and your other gauges seem to work, your problem probably lies somewhere between the dash fusebox and the VSS. According to my EG manual, there should be a BLK/YEL wire that runs from Fuse No.12 (15A) under the dash that supplies the power to the VSS. At some point (probably at a junction connector), that same BLK/YEL wire splits and also supplies power to various other things like the ELD Unit, Voltage Regulator, EACV, Main Relay, and Cruise Control Unit. Since those other things are working, the problem is likely somewhere between where that BLK/YEL wire splits and the VSS itself.

Again, this is all from the EG shop manual. Wire colors and power distribution for EKs might be totally different, but the concept should be the same. Trace the power wire going from the VSS back to the fusebox or junction (whichever comes first), and if you see any open or modification of that wire, fix it.

Here's the EG power diagram. Hope this helps.

Yoitshector

I see what your saying Ima have to take a look at the stickys on here and see of they show this for the ek models.

fragmare

If you have (or have access to) a shop manual for your EK, just look in the Electrical section and flip to the sub-section on power distribution. Browse it until you see the diagram with Speed Sensor listed. I don't think the stickies here have anything pertaining to your specific problem. At least not that I could find.

Yoitshector

I'm gonna have to see if I can get a hold of one

Yoitshector

I'm getting 12.14 volts to the cluster.

Ryan Lwin

Check the sensor.

Yoitshector

I've tested multiple sensors not just one.

Yoitshector

Bump

fragmare

12 volts on what wire?