heavyhittersclub

1993 civic dx Hatch 1.5L d15b7 automatic, no ac, ps, no egr

Ive got spark knock,

Ive been told because my Rad has some Cold spots on it the head gets too hot.... But Ive Proven that wrong Because Every Morning when the Engine is cold I move it in the Condo Parking Lot up to my Place and let it warm up for 5mins or so.....But when I Move it its The Engine is Cold and it does it then too....Everytime

Ive been Told its The CAI producing and Overly Lean Mixture.... But its been on there for 5 months and this just started a week ago

all_motorsi

could be a couple of things, your car is OBD1, check and see if you have a knock sensor

are there an CEL codes?

how many miles?

have you replaced distributor cap/rotor/wires/plugs/fuel filter/cleaned injectors?

If you have overlooked maintainance on your honda it will perform poorly, allmost every time. thats the nature of the beast.

heavyhittersclub

cap/rotor/wires/plugs/fuel filter/cleaned injectors,


I ran an injector cleaner did nothing, symptom stayed the same.... I just put this motor in the car 3 months 5000kms ago and i did a full tune up then exept wires were almost a year ago.....

but i Like where your going with the knock sensor 256oookms on body 105oookms supposedly on new USED motor....

i will pull the codes

heavyhittersclub

there are no codes... or maybe my computer is Done....Anytime I have ever Pulled Codes from a Honda there where codes present... When i Checked mine the Light just stayed On Solid? So does that mean that there arnt any codes in it?

i will have to get under it to check the Knock sensor....I will look in my Hanes manual for the testing procedure for it..

The Other Night I noticed after the Car Gets At Full operating Temperature, Coooling Fans have come on 25 times or so over the Course of an hour and a half of stop and go and sitting Driving.... When you Sit it doesnt Idle Correctly... if you lightly apply the gas theres no shake to the motor and idles like it would when it was new...

When i put the new motor in.....When i was setting the Ignition Timing I had to have the Distributor as far advanced forward as possible to have my timing light marks to be aligned..

I cannot see for the life of me how you take the TPS off is it apart of the throttle body... it looks like its riveted on...i read in another post someone w/same car/motor adjusted the tps and it went away.... im gonna do the Rad on Monday and see what that does.. Maybe its getting to hot and that will at the very least wont be a possibility anymore...I found one at a local indepent Rad shop one for 80 new

1d10t

does it knock when engine is hot and cold? ecu doesnt read knock sensor input until engine has reached operating temperature. check ect. before removing tps, check it. ~.5v closed to ~4.5v wide open. its a potentiometer. as you slowly oprn the throttle the voltage will increase.

KLiK

OBD1 shouldn't have the knock senzor!
also Otto diesn't knock when cold, only when it's hot and in high gear & low rpms!

seems like you have something wrong with some senzor - check them like Haynes says...some imputs aren't right and it's having problems with cooling!

might be the bad distributer or bad coil in it...wrong plugs for the engine - most certainly! also get the distributer lined (alignment of the timing) up in some mechanical shop!

1d10t

no it doesnt have a knock sensor! you CAN get knock at idle! Could be bad gas! I like ! !!

heavyhittersclub

yes it knocks from cold..... 4 Seconds into your accel up to 60kms Driving NORMAL it Knocks if you back off the Throttle slightly you can make it go away..... And its only Audible with with the windows down.

I dont drive it from COLD up to 60kms daily just this once, Every day maybe 10kms in the parking lot up to my condo then it sits for 5 mins but i wanted to see if it did it from completly cold and it did...

This may sound hard to Belive But i Am actually nice to this car its not Raced, I do Rely on it....


Black Exterior
Black Interior
Tinted Windows
All Factory Exterior Lighting
00 Black cloth integra Seats
99 Civic hatch Exaust Everything but the Manifold
Front and Back Upper Strut Tower Bars
Lowered On Ractive Coil Overs
SiR Front Lip
14" Black Powder Coated Factory Steel wheels

Future Wants:
Better Motor
Standard Tranny
For it to Remain Almost Silent at idle
16" wheels
Sway bars

heavyhittersclub

ALL Symptoms from Beginning

- Spark knock only when the motor has a load on it

- Cold start engine idles imediatly @2500rpm for approximatly 1 min then surges between 700ish rom to 2500rpm for 3 to 5 mins Religiously

- When it finally reaches operating temperature it doesnt idle smooth

- Distrubutor is as far advanced forward as possible....for it to spark knock as quiet as possible. I opened my timing cover and everything is aligned I had the Head Mechanic at the shop i work at Double Check it with me..

- Transmission doesnt shift smoothly, Could be the 250,000kms on it

my Agenda for Tuesday night:


-Change Rad
-Check Ignition Timing Again
-Check idle air Control Motor
-Check Tps Voltage
-Still dont know if my computer is Code Free.... When in hook up the jumper wire the check engine light just stayes on solid Does that mean no codes

heavyhittersclub

Next week end I wouldnt mind Setting the Valve Lash Too.. I would like to have ALL of the Possible Adjustments In Spec before I go Replacing things i think are Not working....
Is there an Adjustment Spec for the Transmission Thottle Cable......

1d10t

you may have burned a valve. coolant may have melted away the valve causing poor compression and crappy idle quality. do a compression test. Knocking could be a miss, or caused by unburned fuel lingering in the chamber preigniting out of sequence.

therealjaydubb

i have a 94 civic ex w/ a d16z6 head and d15b7 block with the same problem but i just got my head worked on. Three angle valve job polished the valves. Shaved to make flat. Replaced all rubber components. I put the motor in the car sunday and had the problem immedately i took it in to work and reset cam timing but it didnt do anything.

therealjaydubb

turn the distributor as far clockwise as you can. This should help it some if not get rid of it.

heavyhittersclub

I have it Turned as far COUNTERCLOCKWISE as Possible..... when i Turn it CLOCKWISE it gets way worse and it will Knock even without a Load on it....


But interestingly Enough.... I had the Battery Disconnected for about an hour and the spark knock went away for almost 4 days..... And now i Can Hear it Slightly again the same way it started.. so im Guessing it will just get slowly worse and worse and for some reason disconnecting the battery gets rid of it for a few days...


If the Problem was there all the time i would think it was mehanical.... but it comes and goes so i Know for sure its electrical... My Timing is always on when i Check it and I Had a Slight bearing noise from in the motor the other day.... the tensioner for the timing belt was a little too snug....and all my marks are on ....But Nothing changed symptom wise...noise is gone tho

heavyhittersclub

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heavyhittersclub

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heavyhittersclub

PUT A COMPUTER IN IT AND IT SOLVED BOTH PROBLEMS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!