matthevelli

heres the deal. 95 civc vx with a obd1 b16 swap. two codes. 10 and 14 (iat and iacv) the iat has always been a problem but never looked into it cause it didnt seem to effect performance.(but i have swapped the sensors out..still have a code) but just recently the engine wont stay running when hot...and at cold its really really low..now i have code 14.. i checked resistance on the iacv and its 12 ohms. and the plug is getting 12v koeo. i was thinking maybe a pcm problem so i swapped the p30 with the po7 and the car was idleing better. (idled at 1500-2000 rpms) but at least it was running. but i still had the two codes. i dont understand could this be and bad pcm or just a bad iac valve the just acts differently with each ecu...ive searched for this same problem and it lead me to ideas. but im stumped now...if anyone is out there that could lead me the right direction to get tihs problem fixed, i have a 95 cx rolling shell, lowered suspension. ( needs to be picked up) i would send it ups but iduno if they would let me. HELP ME AND GET A CIVIC. i had to edit the post.. i was able to get rid of the si wheels. friend needed them. but shell still up for grabs


Modified by matthevelli at 12:03 AM 5/21/2007


Modified by matthevelli at 12:14 AM 5/21/2007

abusedhusband

iTrader: (1)

if i lived closer id be on my way. get a buddys good known ecu and plug it in. if that dont work get a wiring diagram and check all connections, and wires.

purple98ek

Just because the IACV is receiving the right voltage and sending out the right amount of ohms does not necessarily mean that it is working properly.........i have noticed that if a motor is not ran for a while the IACV can become plugged......why?....i don't know.....but the best way to find out is to take the IACV off and clean the **** out of it.....and make sure you have everything wired properly.......when can i pick up the car?

Civicman86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by purple98ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just because the IACV is receiving the right voltage and sending out the right amount of ohms does not necessarily mean that it is working properly.........i have noticed that if a motor is not ran for a while the IACV can become plugged......why?....i don't know.....but the best way to find out is to take the IACV off and clean the **** out of it.....and make sure you have everything wired properly.......when can i pick up the car? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Take the iacv off and clean it with carb cleaner. Let it dry for like 30 mins before you put it back on. Also don't lose the rubber o ring.

If the IAT is out of whack the motor might think the weather is way cold or really hot. Either way it will change its fuel trim and it might be either running the car way rich or lean and causing the car to fall on its face at idle. This is also key because when the motor is hot the ecu has a enrich function that either increases.decreses fuel on start up. Like above if it is reading whack temps it could be adding or subtracting major amounts of fuel.

IACV should not cause the car to not run. If anything it will just give you a bouncy idle.

matthevelli

i hooked up a snap-on scan tool and it red the iat was -42c. so that cant be good. and i removed the iacv and it looked clean. but i'll try cleaning it.

Civicman86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matthevelli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hooked up a snap-on scan tool and it red the iat was -42c. so that cant be good. and i removed the iacv and it looked clean. but i'll try cleaning it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope that like 40 below in F I believe. So the motor is probally loading up with fuel to compensate for the denser air causing the motor to "flood" and stall. Try a different IAT sensor. Usually though the IAT does not have the big of an effect on fuel trim but maybe when it thinks its 40 below it does lol.

matthevelli

i took the iat off of the stock d series. that was working properly. and nothing. still have a code

tehpr3chr

so if i come and pay to have ur car fixed, does that count, lol?

matthevelli

hahah sure man

matthevelli

this paradise blue green pearl shell has to go no matter what..my house mates and i have been trying to get rid of it. its a project i can tell you that but its a shell and its free and it comes with si wheels with new tires. so car fixed or not. first person with a trailor gets the title,car,keys,extra parts, d15 if you want..we'll even have a 5zigen exhaust if i ever get this other hatch fixed and to the exhuast shop..

iceman7329

You come to me with both cars and I will fix it. No ****. I cant get up there to do it.

Edit, get me some pics of this car, if nothing else Ill have a tow truck on the way.

Civicman86

no i want that damn car Pics would be nice

iceman7329

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no i want that damn car Pics would be nice</TD></TR></TABLE>
Back off

matthevelli

ill try and get pics tomorrow...but i think i got one of my problems solved..i'll keep it posted. but i;ll def. try and get pics of the shell tomorrow. thanks

matthevelli

turns out my IAT connector was a little loose..sometimes i was getting voltage and somtimes i wasnt. i have some spare connectors and was able to find an extra IAT connector swaped them and the code dissapeared...engine was at good idle to but then starting to act up again. im still getting code 14 but im going to take everyoneS advice and clean the iacv out good tomorrow.. hopefully that will fix everything..thanks for everyones help. and i'll get pics of the shell up asap.. im serious when i say (IT NEEDS TO GO)

VegaS10

I'm in Fayetteville and could use a shell. I have a trailer as well and can come get it.

matthevelli

come get the motha...email me and ill give you my info matthevelli@yahoo.com

matthevelli

so i got the IAT code cleared. but when i went out for a test drive. knock sensor code popped up and the car is sluggish as hell..why does this stuff keep happening? im giong to test the KS and check ignition timing..but keep throwing ideas out for me to try if you know any. thanks

Civicman86

So it was the IAT, looks like I am the winner

If you have a chipped ecu and use a program like hondata just turn the knock sensor off. OEM KS are junk anyways. On another note what ECU were you using? I'm not 100% sure but I don't think obd1 or 0 have KS. So I know you said you swapped between two ECU's.

matthevelli

its a obd1 p30 and yes i have a ks

matthevelli

HEY GUYS!!! just wanted to let you all know that i got rid of the SI wheels...but the shell still up for grabs..couldnt get pics today sorry bout that, but i'll try tomorrow just need to find my damn usb cable for my camera. note that the shell is rolling on 14inch acura wheels(nothing special)

iceman7329

Post pics. I can be there soon if I like.

matthevelli

will do

matthevelli

http://i107.photobucket.com/al...2.jpg


http://i107.photobucket.com/al...3.jpg


the shell has potential cause before i sold it to my friend it look alright before pics

http://i107.photobucket.com/al...1.jpg

http://i107.photobucket.com/al...h.jpg


just remember the SI wheels are not included anymore!! its on 14inch acura wheels. HURRY WE NEED THIS CAR OUT OF HERE!!

slowex98

hope i was able to help in the message