pearl

iTrader: (1)

I'm stumped.

I have a 98 y7 motor with a z6 intake manifold on it. I'm using the y7 throttle body, z6 IACV wired up as well.

Everything with the swap went well, but I noticed that it sits at 2000rpms after I start it up, like its cold starting. Once i tap the gas, it falls back down to around 800rpms but then jumps right back up to 2000rpm's. with no CEL lights. It felt like it was warming up to 2000 rpms and sitting there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Modified by japearl at 10:36 AM 9/29/2005

Bond

Recheck all your vacuum lines. I think you have a vacuum leak that is causing your idle issues. check sensor connections and make sure they are connected to the right sensor.

pearl

iTrader: (1)

I have checked all the sensors, plugged and unplugged while running and I know I have all of them right. I'm pretty sure I don't have a vac. leak but I will look again.

Anyone else?

Could a leaky intake manifold gasket cause this problem?

pearl

iTrader: (1)

I took it for a spin and I noticed that it sits at 2000rpms, like its cold starting. Once i tap the gas, it falls back down to around 800rpms but then jumps right back up to 2000rpm's.

mattssi

I am having pretty much the same issue still. I have cleared all cel's and have replaced the fitv and the iacv. No dice. I did get a autozone intake mani gasket, wondering if that is the culprit or not? I haven't been able to find a vac leak either. Hopefully you get a answer cause i could use one too.

VWVORTEX

switch around the tps/map, you might have them crossed, and also yea make sure no vacum leaks.

pearl

iTrader: (1)

Tried switching the sensors... Car runs fine but when I hit the gas it stalls, so I know they are in the right spots. I will try again though.

mattssi, what tb did you use?

madcrossover

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried to replace the Gasket between the TB and the IM?

mattssi

I was using a z6 tb, but now i am using a smaller dx tb. I have a brand new oem honda tb gasket on mine. And the wiring to the map and tps is straight on mine. It just boggles my mind. I cannot figure it out. I had one injector that i took off of a d15 and the rest of the injectors i am positive are 240's. THe dx injector should be 240 as well though?

pearl

iTrader: (1)

Has nothing to do with your injectors. I had my stock y7 injectors in, and then when i put my 440s in with my chipped ecu it still did it.

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japearl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has nothing to do with your injectors. I had my stock y7 injectors in, and then when i put my 440s in with my chipped ecu it still did it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh, so your turbo'd. Is it tuned right and when did this happen? Like a week ago or did it just start? Try getting your hands on a vacuum tester (hand pump with gauge). That and if you have an extra IACV swap it in to make sure it's not the problem. Hows the gasket between the intake manny and head. Any vacuum leaks?

pearl

iTrader: (1)

I found my problem. The FITV screw or whatever it is, is loose.

(For everyone still intrested
Take your intake or whatever off and you will see one hole that leads to the IACV (top) and one that leads to the FITV (bottom, slightly wider) Start your car and cover the second hole. When I did that, the car idled fine. So whoever else had the problem, check that out!

Laserjock

I love HT! I just did this and I am having the similar issues. Only mine jumps from ~800 to ~3000 rpms.

I double checked the wiring and sensors are correct. Did you guys use the Y7 or the Z6 IAS? Shouldn't make a difference but...

I am runnning a chipped P28 and have done the re-wire for the IAS I will check the FITV screw. Getting dark right now...

For reference purposes and if anyone bothers to search and finds this thread, some links:

http://www.jdmuniverse.com/for...32971

http://www.thezcr.com/forums/s...55391

http://www.d-series.org/forums...27068


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japearl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found my problem. The FITV screw or whatever it is, is loose.

(For everyone still intrested
Take your intake or whatever off and you will see one hole that leads to the IACV (top) and one that leads to the FITV (bottom, slightly wider) Start your car and cover the second hole. When I did that, the car idled fine. So whoever else had the problem, check that out!</TD></TR></TABLE>

pearl

iTrader: (1)

The only problem is everyone shows adjusting every throttle bodies FITV, but not a y7. It looks totally different. I'll find it out. Thanks for posting the other links

Laserjock

Did you use the Y7 or the Z6 throttle body? ***nvm*** BTW the Y7 and Z6 throttle body have the same ID

Just helping build the knowledge base. Helps to have somebody that can throw ideas around to you

pearl

iTrader: (1)

i used the y7 tb, but i dont have the FITV like the obd1 tb's do. I think I'm going to make a blockoff plate where it would go. Does anyone think this wont work?

Laserjock

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=699787

And this link in that link:

http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php

I just found this. Might be something I'll try out tomorrow.

viskii420

probly u tightned to much the TB cable from gas pedale.... so it leaves the tb open.. its just my idea..

Laserjock

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by viskii420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">probly u tightned to much the TB cable from gas pedale.... so it leaves the tb open.. its just my idea..</TD></TR></TABLE>

My throttle cable is loose. I just started up the car to check that I had no leaks. Besides, that won't explain why the idle is surging. That would only cause a high, constant idle.

Laserjock

The Y7 FITV. It's a rotary magnetic solenoid type.

Pics are after I cleaned it with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. I t was covered in a thick, black oily mess.

With the electromagnet and connector hooked up



Closed



Open


Might wanna clean the FITV! I'm thinking I got a vaccum leak somewhere...I have not been able to localise it. It's driving me nuts right now.

I have a chipped P28 with a obd2 to obd1 conversion harness and I did the 3 wire to 2 wire rewire.

Any help?

Laserjock

BTW, I don't mean to hijack your thread. Sorry. I thought this info may be important.

Looking at the first pic, It looks like the normal position my FITV is OPEN?!?!? It sounds like the engine is gonna blowwhen I gtry to run it.

So I removed the electromagnet, and I turned the shaft so that it would close (like in the second pic) and I thought that would let the engine idle better. No Go! It idled just as bad and it now had a whisltling sound

pearl

iTrader: (1)

i just blocked it off since im running a 2 wire iacv on my z6 intake manifold. no more problems.

Laserjock

What did you use to block it? I can cut a piece of piece of aluminum to shape...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japearl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just blocked it off since im running a 2 wire iacv on my z6 intake manifold. no more problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

igo4bmx

yep
same problem i had!
3 wire iacv.s u need to block the opening, since hjaving that unplug just creates a vacuum leak

pearl

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What did you use to block it? I can cut a piece of piece of aluminum to shape...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I did. i used a Miller Lite can