So confused, d15b vtec-e in my '93 EX... p28 vtec?
08-09-2008, 04:52 PM
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So confused, d15b vtec-e in my '93 EX... p28 vtec?
Heres what happened:
I had stock auto d16z6, shot a rod out of the side while going up a steep hill in Oregon (I live in WA) ~200k on the engine (towing my car home on a uhaul 100+ miles away sucked). So I went to go buy the d15b vtec from a Japanese engine shop around here. Looked pretty nice, everything was clean, they even painted it... A few sensors broke, but I figured no big deal I'll just use mine...
Pic for reference
Brought it home, took me 2 weekends to get it all in. Only issue was it has an EGR valve (which I just learned wth that thing was) which I dont have a plug or anything for. And it was missing that purge valve on the back of the intake... No big deal. I also put a manual transmission from an EX/Si and did the whole conversion at the same time haven't done the resister mod for this so I get a code 19 CEL still which I was going to fix this weekend but I may have bigger issues.
I started it up last weekend, runs ok at lowish rpms, I have had problems with a surging idle but I think I nearly got that fixed I had the idle control valve screwed almost all the way in which I have set properly now, (was throwing code 14 IAC / EACV when surging but that went away).
My question is whenever you rev to vtec land, I get a huge loss of power (sounds like **** at about 5500) and I get a CEL for either 21 or 22 (seen both but not at the same time).
Now I just found out the d15b vtec-e IS NOT THE SAME as the d15b vtec... This motor has a p07 head... Can I continue to run my p28 ECU? Anyway I can get the vtec to work properly? Is it worth it to try and just do a mini-me type swap to it? I like power, but this is a daily driver and good gas mileage is great too (although I'm not so thrilled about the 92hp I hear this is rated for).
Should I go back to the shop and scream at the old *** Japanese dude that you can't understand half of what he says? He said d15b vtec and thats whats on the receipt but I did inspect it and it does say vtec-e on the valve cover... I just assumed vtec-e was some jdm thing....
I had stock auto d16z6, shot a rod out of the side while going up a steep hill in Oregon (I live in WA) ~200k on the engine (towing my car home on a uhaul 100+ miles away sucked). So I went to go buy the d15b vtec from a Japanese engine shop around here. Looked pretty nice, everything was clean, they even painted it... A few sensors broke, but I figured no big deal I'll just use mine...
Pic for reference
Brought it home, took me 2 weekends to get it all in. Only issue was it has an EGR valve (which I just learned wth that thing was) which I dont have a plug or anything for. And it was missing that purge valve on the back of the intake... No big deal. I also put a manual transmission from an EX/Si and did the whole conversion at the same time haven't done the resister mod for this so I get a code 19 CEL still which I was going to fix this weekend but I may have bigger issues.
I started it up last weekend, runs ok at lowish rpms, I have had problems with a surging idle but I think I nearly got that fixed I had the idle control valve screwed almost all the way in which I have set properly now, (was throwing code 14 IAC / EACV when surging but that went away).
My question is whenever you rev to vtec land, I get a huge loss of power (sounds like **** at about 5500) and I get a CEL for either 21 or 22 (seen both but not at the same time).
Now I just found out the d15b vtec-e IS NOT THE SAME as the d15b vtec... This motor has a p07 head... Can I continue to run my p28 ECU? Anyway I can get the vtec to work properly? Is it worth it to try and just do a mini-me type swap to it? I like power, but this is a daily driver and good gas mileage is great too (although I'm not so thrilled about the 92hp I hear this is rated for).
Should I go back to the shop and scream at the old *** Japanese dude that you can't understand half of what he says? He said d15b vtec and thats whats on the receipt but I did inspect it and it does say vtec-e on the valve cover... I just assumed vtec-e was some jdm thing....
08-09-2008, 05:01 PM
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Re: So confused, d15b vtec-e in my '93 EX... p28 vtec? (tazeat)
P28 is never gonna run that right, vtec-e isn't like normal vtec, its entire purpose revolves around efficiant combusition. At low RPMs 1 intake valve per cylinder is kept nearly completely closed, at a certain RPM, forget where exactly, but its quite low the engine switches to normal 16 valve operation. What you want to run that engine is a P07, theres just one problem, the P07 only came in VXs, which were only offered with a manual tranny. it also takes a 5 wire O2 sensor you would have to wire up, these are expensive as well $400 or so i think for the O2 sensor. If I were you i'd try to exchange it with a regular D15B vtec, they drop right in, you just need to either add the purge solenoid or swap on the Z6 intake manifold.
08-09-2008, 05:09 PM
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I think the P07 ECU's from VX's that originated in California used a normal O2 sensor. If you can find one I'd go that route. Option two is to find a P06, which should keep anything bad from happening, but at the loss of VTEC.
08-09-2008, 05:16 PM
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Re: (Kendall)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kendall »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the P07 ECU's from VX's that originated in California used a normal O2 sensor. If you can find one I'd go that route. Option two is to find a P06, which should keep anything bad from happening, but at the loss of VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
P07 isn't an option at all, they don't exist as an automatic ECU. P06 will work, but its a half assed solution IMO. and yes california ECUs use a 4 wire O2 sensor, but only from '93 - '95, i'm quite sure '92 used a 5 wire O2 like the 49 state version.
P07 isn't an option at all, they don't exist as an automatic ECU. P06 will work, but its a half assed solution IMO. and yes california ECUs use a 4 wire O2 sensor, but only from '93 - '95, i'm quite sure '92 used a 5 wire O2 like the 49 state version.
08-09-2008, 05:20 PM
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:-/ Pissed at that Japanese Motor guy, I'm gonna have to driver over there, they are closed by now, closed Sunday, and I work all frickin day mon-friday, I'm calling him first thing Monday though...
What about chipping, could I keep my ECU and go that route? (I have no problems with a soldering iron, I've done a HELL of a lot smaller than ECUs although I have never actually done an ECU)
edit: and Thank you for all this information!
What about chipping, could I keep my ECU and go that route? (I have no problems with a soldering iron, I've done a HELL of a lot smaller than ECUs although I have never actually done an ECU)
edit: and Thank you for all this information!
08-09-2008, 05:21 PM
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Wow, I'm always surprised to find other well informed people on forums. 
I completely didn't pay attention about it being an automatic. That being the case I do agree, it would be less expensive and less headache to just find the correct D15B.
I completely didn't pay attention about it being an automatic. That being the case I do agree, it would be less expensive and less headache to just find the correct D15B.
08-09-2008, 06:14 PM
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So can the p28 be chipped to support the vtec-e? If I can just fix my ecu, I'll just keep this motor in there, it was very clean and I guess I really don't need anything to fast, this thing cruises just fine at 75 and is fine for getting around town...
Just thinking it over, I just got done with the swap having to get do it all over again (although I'm sure 10000000x easier the second time, did it all by myself learned a lot, love the guides here!)
Just thinking it over, I just got done with the swap having to get do it all over again (although I'm sure 10000000x easier the second time, did it all by myself learned a lot, love the guides here!)
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08-09-2008, 06:22 PM
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Sorry, but I don't think there's any hope of properly running the engine with the P28.
On the upside, if you do a bunch of swaps you'll be really awesome at it, and can possibly make some money or trade labor with other people doing similar work.
On the upside, if you do a bunch of swaps you'll be really awesome at it, and can possibly make some money or trade labor with other people doing similar work.
08-09-2008, 07:00 PM
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Re: (Intake_Kush)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Intake_Kush »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go and buy the proper ecu if you dont want to swap it out again, Btw V-tec e gets good gas mileage thats one good thing for you 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Once again, the correct ECU does not exist. It may be possible to fab something up, its quite easy to convert an automatic OBD1 ecu to manual, but this simply involves disabling circuitry, what you would need to do here is add components that don't currently exist, and even then I don't know if it would work. Vtec-e does get some sweet mileage though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Once again, the correct ECU does not exist. It may be possible to fab something up, its quite easy to convert an automatic OBD1 ecu to manual, but this simply involves disabling circuitry, what you would need to do here is add components that don't currently exist, and even then I don't know if it would work. Vtec-e does get some sweet mileage though.
08-09-2008, 07:34 PM
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Re: (tazeat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Read my first post, I converted to manual when I did the swap.
I want a manual ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, didn't notice that part, good job on the auto to manual swap I've done 2 on 5th gen civics, they definately get easier everytime you do them. First time i did it took 7 days, i only swapped the tranny, next time took a day and half and we swapped in an engine at the same time. Now, back to the ECU thing, '93 - '95 california emissions ECU is probably your best bet, you will still need to wire up the EGR I believe. next choice would be get a 49 state ECU and wire up the 5 wire O2 sensor and EGR, which really isn't all that hard, its just that the sensor itself is really pricey. Your other option as stated before is try to get the engine you thought you were buying, once you've swapped an engine in a honda once it gets a lot easier the second time around.
I want a manual ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, didn't notice that part, good job on the auto to manual swap
I've done 2 on 5th gen civics, they definately get easier everytime you do them. First time i did it took 7 days, i only swapped the tranny, next time took a day and half and we swapped in an engine at the same time. Now, back to the ECU thing, '93 - '95 california emissions ECU is probably your best bet, you will still need to wire up the EGR I believe. next choice would be get a 49 state ECU and wire up the 5 wire O2 sensor and EGR, which really isn't all that hard, its just that the sensor itself is really pricey. Your other option as stated before is try to get the engine you thought you were buying, once you've swapped an engine in a honda once it gets a lot easier the second time around.
08-09-2008, 09:57 PM
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Re: So confused, d15b vtec-e in my '93 EX... p28 vtec? (tazeat)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now I just found out the d15b vtec-e IS NOT THE SAME as the d15b vtec... This motor has a p07 head... Can I continue to run my p28 ECU? Anyway I can get the vtec to work properly? Is it worth it to try and just do a mini-me type swap to it? I like power, but this is a daily driver and good gas mileage is great too (although I'm not so thrilled about the 92hp I hear this is rated for).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure it's a P07 head?
The JDM D15B has BOTH VTEC AND VTEC-E in it. So the head might appear to be from a VX, with the VTEC-E in it, but it's not. The JDM D15B utilizes both forms of VTEC, it uses 12 valves at lower RPM, then switches to 16 valves at mid-range, then the rockers lock at 6k RPM for regular VTEC. This is known at 3-stage VTEC.
So I ask again, are you sure it's a P07 head, and it just doesn't appear that way because of the VTEC-E?
Best course of operation ECU wise, IMO:
Chip a P28 ECU and burn a VTi (that is what the JDM D15B came in, I do believe) .bin file to it. That will handle all your fuel tables and the like - though you might have to do some wiring (not sure how that works out).
EDIT:
OR it could just be a JDM D15B with a D15Z1 head on it
.
If that's the case, sell the head and put a Z6 head on there, then you can run a regular P28.
Now I just found out the d15b vtec-e IS NOT THE SAME as the d15b vtec... This motor has a p07 head... Can I continue to run my p28 ECU? Anyway I can get the vtec to work properly? Is it worth it to try and just do a mini-me type swap to it? I like power, but this is a daily driver and good gas mileage is great too (although I'm not so thrilled about the 92hp I hear this is rated for).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure it's a P07 head?
The JDM D15B has BOTH VTEC AND VTEC-E in it. So the head might appear to be from a VX, with the VTEC-E in it, but it's not. The JDM D15B utilizes both forms of VTEC, it uses 12 valves at lower RPM, then switches to 16 valves at mid-range, then the rockers lock at 6k RPM for regular VTEC. This is known at 3-stage VTEC.
So I ask again, are you sure it's a P07 head, and it just doesn't appear that way because of the VTEC-E?
Best course of operation ECU wise, IMO:
Chip a P28 ECU and burn a VTi (that is what the JDM D15B came in, I do believe) .bin file to it. That will handle all your fuel tables and the like - though you might have to do some wiring (not sure how that works out).
EDIT:
OR it could just be a JDM D15B with a D15Z1 head on it
.If that's the case, sell the head and put a Z6 head on there, then you can run a regular P28.
08-10-2008, 05:35 AM
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Re: So confused, d15b vtec-e in my '93 EX... p28 vtec? (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure it's a P07 head?
The JDM D15B has BOTH VTEC AND VTEC-E in it. So the head might appear to be from a VX, with the VTEC-E in it, but it's not. The JDM D15B utilizes both forms of VTEC, it uses 12 valves at lower RPM, then switches to 16 valves at mid-range, then the rockers lock at 6k RPM for regular VTEC. This is known at 3-stage VTEC.
So I ask again, are you sure it's a P07 head, and it just doesn't appear that way because of the VTEC-E?
Best course of operation ECU wise, IMO:
Chip a P28 ECU and burn a VTi (that is what the JDM D15B came in, I do believe) .bin file to it. That will handle all your fuel tables and the like - though you might have to do some wiring (not sure how that works out).
EDIT:
OR it could just be a JDM D15B with a D15Z1 head on it.
If that's the case, sell the head and put a Z6 head on there, then you can run a regular P28.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Syndacate, coming from you this surprises me, the D15B came in at least 3 different flavors: OBD1 D15B Vtec, regular SOHC vtec like a D16Z1. OBD1 SOHC Vtec-e, the same as the D15Z1. OBD2 D15B 3 stage Vtec, unlike anything else. You can't really put a Z6 head on a Z1 block either, it will fit, but yeilds extremely low compression. This guy got the Vtec-e version when he wanted regular SOHC vtec.
The JDM D15B has BOTH VTEC AND VTEC-E in it. So the head might appear to be from a VX, with the VTEC-E in it, but it's not. The JDM D15B utilizes both forms of VTEC, it uses 12 valves at lower RPM, then switches to 16 valves at mid-range, then the rockers lock at 6k RPM for regular VTEC. This is known at 3-stage VTEC.
So I ask again, are you sure it's a P07 head, and it just doesn't appear that way because of the VTEC-E?
Best course of operation ECU wise, IMO:
Chip a P28 ECU and burn a VTi (that is what the JDM D15B came in, I do believe) .bin file to it. That will handle all your fuel tables and the like - though you might have to do some wiring (not sure how that works out).
EDIT:
OR it could just be a JDM D15B with a D15Z1 head on it
.If that's the case, sell the head and put a Z6 head on there, then you can run a regular P28.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Syndacate, coming from you this surprises me, the D15B came in at least 3 different flavors: OBD1 D15B Vtec, regular SOHC vtec like a D16Z1. OBD1 SOHC Vtec-e, the same as the D15Z1. OBD2 D15B 3 stage Vtec, unlike anything else. You can't really put a Z6 head on a Z1 block either, it will fit, but yeilds extremely low compression. This guy got the Vtec-e version when he wanted regular SOHC vtec.
08-10-2008, 10:56 PM
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Yes sadly I didn't even realize they were different until I got it all installed and it runs like **** (well its actually not too bad under 3~3.5k)...
And yes I'm sure I have a p07 head, its written on the top part of the block as well as on the intake manifold that came with it.. :-/
Anybody know a good place to find this hard to find ECU? I put a WTB thread, but I don't know if that's enough...
With the VTi basemap burned to a chip that would work for my situation though Syndacate?
Thanks
And yes I'm sure I have a p07 head, its written on the top part of the block as well as on the intake manifold that came with it.. :-/
Anybody know a good place to find this hard to find ECU? I put a WTB thread, but I don't know if that's enough...
With the VTi basemap burned to a chip that would work for my situation though Syndacate?
Thanks
08-11-2008, 01:24 PM
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You can run the P28 on that engine cuz that's exactly what was on my '95 EX when I bought it. Complete '95 EX with a Z1 swapped in. It ran okay on the 240s and the P28, but fuel mileage wasn't great. Well, I thought that if I added my P07 and the smaller 190cc injectors that the Z1 used that it'd help. Well, it helped a bit...but alot. Only get 250 on the tank still. BLAH
08-11-2008, 01:55 PM
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welcome to D15B hell. Like 94EG8 said, there are at least 3 different versions, but more likely several more since there were some odd ball cars that I've uncovered. But have found very little documented on them.
anyway, back to your problem...
Personally I think you should have the P28 chipped and tuned for the Z1. Tuned means the maps are massaged by an experienced tuner while in your car, not a guy that sells "tuned" chips.
That or else you'll have to get a P07.
if it's a 49-state version (A00-A02) you'll need the EGR control "pod" that sits on the firewall, and run wires for it as well as the 5-wire O2.
if it's the cali-spec version (L01-L02) it will take the typical 4-wire O2 and no EGR CELs. BUT they are not easy to find.
(the P07-L00 was for 92 cali, has 5-wire O2 and EGR but lean burn was disabled due to emissions)
BUT the trans change will screw up the P07. Have the P28 tuned.
anyway, back to your problem...
Personally I think you should have the P28 chipped and tuned for the Z1. Tuned means the maps are massaged by an experienced tuner while in your car, not a guy that sells "tuned" chips.
That or else you'll have to get a P07.
if it's a 49-state version (A00-A02) you'll need the EGR control "pod" that sits on the firewall, and run wires for it as well as the 5-wire O2.
if it's the cali-spec version (L01-L02) it will take the typical 4-wire O2 and no EGR CELs. BUT they are not easy to find.
(the P07-L00 was for 92 cali, has 5-wire O2 and EGR but lean burn was disabled due to emissions)
BUT the trans change will screw up the P07. Have the P28 tuned.
08-11-2008, 05:07 PM
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Re: (Relic1)
Oh I don't know if i'd call it hell, you can get petty much anything you'd want for a D15B vtec at any local autoparts store, you just have to know what to ask for. Personally I'd try hard to find a california emissions P07, i think even these have the EGR valve, but i can't confirm. Chipped P28 would also be a good choice. To Relic1, how do you figure the trans change will screw up the P07? you usually make good sense so i'm genuinely curious on this one.
08-11-2008, 08:49 PM
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the D15B hell I referred to was the occasional blind ordering of the D15B that gets done. Sometimes you don't honestly know which version you're going to get.
the ECU has the trans ratios in it, that's how it knows which gear it's in (RPM & speed)
The P07 will see 5th gear as either 3rd or 4th. This changes fuel and ignition. And with the unique way the P07 does some things, it will likely change other things as well.
the ECU has the trans ratios in it, that's how it knows which gear it's in (RPM & speed)
The P07 will see 5th gear as either 3rd or 4th. This changes fuel and ignition. And with the unique way the P07 does some things, it will likely change other things as well.
08-11-2008, 11:51 PM
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Ok, first off I have to get my mount fixed on my car so its drivable, (the tranny mount is having issues I stripped where it bolts on to the transmission housing...)...
First step I was going to bitch for a new engine... the RIGHT one I WANTED... Although this thing does get crazy good gas mileage even with the p28... I normally try for 150 miles at half a talk, I'm at 180 and this is with ~20-30 minutes of just idling while I was bleeding coolant and trying to fix my idle issues... So if that doesn't work out so well I think I'm going to try Speedfactory I know they do a lot of turbos and tuning around here, someone over there should be able to help me out getting my ECU to better match the motor...
Sound logical?
ECU is still in AUTO mode at the moment O.o it must really be [freak]ing lost at what gear I'm in if thats how its calculated xD
First step I was going to bitch for a new engine... the RIGHT one I WANTED... Although this thing does get crazy good gas mileage even with the p28... I normally try for 150 miles at half a talk, I'm at 180 and this is with ~20-30 minutes of just idling while I was bleeding coolant and trying to fix my idle issues... So if that doesn't work out so well I think I'm going to try Speedfactory I know they do a lot of turbos and tuning around here, someone over there should be able to help me out getting my ECU to better match the motor...
Sound logical?
ECU is still in AUTO mode at the moment O.o it must really be [freak]ing lost at what gear I'm in if thats how its calculated xD
08-12-2008, 12:19 AM
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Re: (Relic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Syndacate, coming from you this surprises me, the D15B came in at least 3 different flavors: OBD1 D15B Vtec, regular SOHC vtec like a D16Z1. OBD1 SOHC Vtec-e, the same as the D15Z1. OBD2 D15B 3 stage Vtec, unlike anything else. You can't really put a Z6 head on a Z1 block either, it will fit, but yeilds extremely low compression. This guy got the Vtec-e version when he wanted regular SOHC vtec.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah, no, I didn't know that.
I thought the JDM D15B was only available with 3 stage VTEC - I haven't seen any other versions, and only seen < 5 D15B's to begin with (kinda rare around here, more popular out in Cali and the like).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the VTi basemap burned to a chip that would work for my situation though Syndacate?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. I was under the assumption that it only came in 3 stage VTEC, but the theory still holds, if you get the base map for whatever the hell engine that came in (a p07 base map might work) you can burn it to an OBD-I ECU and it'll run peachy.
I mean you can generalize the block sizing of the D15B, regardless of the flavors, then find out which car it came out of and get that basemap.
EDIT:
That's basically how the P28 is running ur engine right now, it's simply that with a chip you can get it more accurate to your specific engine
/EDIT
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, first off I have to get my mount fixed on my car so its drivable, (the tranny mount is having issues I stripped where it bolts on to the transmission housing...)...
First step I was going to bitch for a new engine... the RIGHT one I WANTED... Although this thing does get crazy good gas mileage even with the p28... I normally try for 150 miles at half a talk, I'm at 180 and this is with ~20-30 minutes of just idling while I was bleeding coolant and trying to fix my idle issues... So if that doesn't work out so well I think I'm going to try Speedfactory I know they do a lot of turbos and tuning around here, someone over there should be able to help me out getting my ECU to better match the motor...
Sound logical?
ECU is still in AUTO mode at the moment O.o it must really be [freak]ing lost at what gear I'm in if thats how its calculated xD</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a decently smart move, though I'd get a manual ECU in there ASAP. Though I'm sure if they're a reputable performance shop (for imports) they'll know exactly what to do for ur case.
Though I'd give **** to that importer for selling you the wrong motor.
Syndacate, coming from you this surprises me, the D15B came in at least 3 different flavors: OBD1 D15B Vtec, regular SOHC vtec like a D16Z1. OBD1 SOHC Vtec-e, the same as the D15Z1. OBD2 D15B 3 stage Vtec, unlike anything else. You can't really put a Z6 head on a Z1 block either, it will fit, but yeilds extremely low compression. This guy got the Vtec-e version when he wanted regular SOHC vtec.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah, no, I didn't know that.
I thought the JDM D15B was only available with 3 stage VTEC - I haven't seen any other versions, and only seen < 5 D15B's to begin with (kinda rare around here, more popular out in Cali and the like).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the VTi basemap burned to a chip that would work for my situation though Syndacate?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. I was under the assumption that it only came in 3 stage VTEC, but the theory still holds, if you get the base map for whatever the hell engine that came in (a p07 base map might work) you can burn it to an OBD-I ECU and it'll run peachy.
I mean you can generalize the block sizing of the D15B, regardless of the flavors, then find out which car it came out of and get that basemap.
EDIT:
That's basically how the P28 is running ur engine right now, it's simply that with a chip you can get it more accurate to your specific engine
/EDIT
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, first off I have to get my mount fixed on my car so its drivable, (the tranny mount is having issues I stripped where it bolts on to the transmission housing...)...
First step I was going to bitch for a new engine... the RIGHT one I WANTED... Although this thing does get crazy good gas mileage even with the p28... I normally try for 150 miles at half a talk, I'm at 180 and this is with ~20-30 minutes of just idling while I was bleeding coolant and trying to fix my idle issues... So if that doesn't work out so well I think I'm going to try Speedfactory I know they do a lot of turbos and tuning around here, someone over there should be able to help me out getting my ECU to better match the motor...
Sound logical?
ECU is still in AUTO mode at the moment O.o it must really be [freak]ing lost at what gear I'm in if thats how its calculated xD</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like a decently smart move, though I'd get a manual ECU in there ASAP. Though I'm sure if they're a reputable performance shop (for imports) they'll know exactly what to do for ur case.
Though I'd give **** to that importer for selling you the wrong motor.
08-12-2008, 07:06 AM
#23
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Re: (tazeat)
the variations of the D15B that are documented fairly well.... http://asia.vtec.net/article/d15b
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ECU is still in AUTO mode at the moment O.o it must really be [freak]ing lost at what gear I'm in if thats how its calculated xD</TD></TR></TABLE>
With the CEL for auto trans solenoid set you're in one gear at all times. It's a fail safe.
Get it converted and it will run better, get it chipped/tuned and it will run even better.
Auto-->manual for a P28 is super easy to do. It takes 10 minutes even if the person works slow.
that engine is good for 45+mpg highway, even if you drive it at 75-80mph.
the Z1/VX had great mpg figures, especially if you drive it right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tazeat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ECU is still in AUTO mode at the moment O.o it must really be [freak]ing lost at what gear I'm in if thats how its calculated xD</TD></TR></TABLE>
With the CEL for auto trans solenoid set you're in one gear at all times. It's a fail safe.
Get it converted and it will run better, get it chipped/tuned and it will run even better.
Auto-->manual for a P28 is super easy to do. It takes 10 minutes even if the person works slow.
that engine is good for 45+mpg highway, even if you drive it at 75-80mph.
the Z1/VX had great mpg figures, especially if you drive it right.
08-16-2008, 12:22 PM
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Status update: now that I have time this weekend I'm going to fix that mount make it drivable again.
I have ordered the Moates Honda ECU Chipping kit along with the BURN1 so hopefully I can chip it with the p07-303.bin I found on http://www.b18c5eg.com/EcuDefinitionCodes/ which loads up fine in crome and looks like it should match much better. It shipped and should arrive Thursday.
I figure I'll just do the auto-man at the same time, so I dont have to take it out twice and mess with it, I got enough stuff today this weekend as it is...
at working way too many hours during the week, almost 16 hrs yesterday...
Modified by tazeat at 1:32 PM 8/16/2008
I have ordered the Moates Honda ECU Chipping kit along with the BURN1 so hopefully I can chip it with the p07-303.bin I found on http://www.b18c5eg.com/EcuDefinitionCodes/ which loads up fine in crome and looks like it should match much better. It shipped and should arrive Thursday.
I figure I'll just do the auto-man at the same time, so I dont have to take it out twice and mess with it, I got enough stuff today this weekend as it is...
at working way too many hours during the week, almost 16 hrs yesterday...Modified by tazeat at 1:32 PM 8/16/2008