blackhatchsd

im having trouble passing smog with the reff, i have a 95 civic hatchback with a stock 95 LS motor, i was told that i was running too lean, and that my car has a problem staying on idle, its not surging but idle drops down after a few minutes from turning the car on, i had change my vacume lines,IACV, 02 sensor and MAP sensor to see if i might have a vacume leak or a sensor might be busted, but still had no effect on idle. I also notice that my check engine light turns on after a few miles out of nowhere, can someone help me with this problem with having the high nox because i have also installed 2 cats and it still didn;t bring it down.

my smog test results

COMPREHENSIVE VISUAL INSPECTIONS***
FUNCTIONAL CHECK***
EMISSIONS TEST: GROSS POLLUTER

ASM Emission Test Results

HC (PPM)
15mph-44
25mph-25

CO(%)
15mph-0.01
25mph-0.00

NO(PPM)
15mph-2374
25mph1903

thesmogman

Do you mean you have two cat's on it right now? Or have you tried two different cat's.

Bigger is not always better (for cat's that is) the reason is the bigger cat will not heat up enough to do it's job. Go with a stock replacement cat if possible.

What is your O2 reading from the test?
How long has the motor been in the car? Have you tried de-carbonizing it?

Your HC numbers are saying that it is not lean. lean would be below 10ppm's
Where is your timing at from the test results?
Do you have an exhaust leak before the cat?

Sorry so all over the place. Just typing as I think of them.

blackhatchsd

i have 2 cat hooked up, the 02 sensor said that it passed, and when you mean by de-carbonizing the motor, i have sprayed water to clean the motor from what i was told would bring the nox down, but didn't help me at all... im still throwing a check engine light a few minutes after the car has been turned on, but i cant figure out what it is,i also used some stuff from autozone that would go in the gas tank and that **** didn;t even do anything..i've only swapped the motor just recently and i drove for only a month until i got popped from the cop having a modified motor as they say, so i was sent to the reff to get it bar'd

blueeg

pull the code for the check engine light. that might narrow down your problem.

hatchi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blueeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pull the code for the check engine light. that might narrow down your problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

check the code that pops up

mrdeezy

How about a CO2 reading? They cannot pass you with a check engine light on anyways...

blackhatchsd

it doesn't turn on unless a few miles is driven on it.. i wondered that too because it didn't pop on when i was getting it smogged at the reff..?

mrdeezy

The light and nox should not be related.Has it had any cylinder head work done?Anything to change compression? You should be able to go in and look at the codes.Try this and get back to us.This is from the technicians reference

1995 Honda Civic Hatchback L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve)
Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Testing and Inspection Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
Displaying & Reading Trouble Codes
Notes

9. When the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has been reported on, do the following:




1. Connect the Service Check Connector terminals with a jumper wire as shown. (The 2P Service Check Connector is located under the dash on the passenger side of the car.) Turn the ignition switch on.




2. Note the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC): The MIL indicates a code by the length and number of blinks. The MIL can indicate simultaneous component problems by blinking separate codes, one after another. Codes I through 9 are indicated by individual short blinks. Codes 10 through 48 are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. The number of long blinks equals the first digit, the number of short blinks equals the second digit.




2. Engine Control Module (ECM) Reset Procedure

1. Turn the ignition switch off.
2. Remove the BACK UP (7.5 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the ECM. NOTE: Disconnecting the BACK UP fuse also cancels the radio preset stations and the clock setting. Make note of the radio presets before removing the fuse so you reset them.

3. Final Procedure (this procedure must be done after any troubleshooting)

1. Remove the Jumper Wire. NOTE: If the Service Check Connector is jumped, the MIL will stay on.
2. Do the ECM Reset Procedure.
3. Set the radio preset stations and the clock setting.




* If codes other than those listed above are indicated, verify the code. If the code indicated is not listed above, replace the ECM.
* The MIL may come on, indicating a system problem when, in fact, there is a poor or intermittent electrical connection. First, check the electrical connections, clean or repair connections if necessary.
* The MIL does not come on when there is a malfunction in the Electrical Load Detector (ELD) circuit. However, it will indicate the code when the Service Check Connector is jumped.







If the inspection for a particular code requires the test harness, remove the right door sill molding and pull the carpet back to expose the ECM. Unbolt the ECM cover. Turn the ignition switch off and connect the test harness. Check the system according to the procedure described for the appropriate code(s) listed.




CAUTION:

* Puncturing the insulation on a wire can cause poor or intermittent electrical connections.
* For testing at connectors other than the test harness, bring the tester probe into contact with the terminal from the connector side of wire harness connectors in the engine compartment. For female connectors, just touch lightly with the tester probe and do not insert the probe.

mrdeezy

EvilPhu

What's your O2 reading???
Otherwise soak your airfilter with water and get it tested