Jon Petersen

Sorry for the semi-clickbait title. However, this is an official semi-emergency.
I have a 1995 Honda Civic EX. I replaced the power steering rack about 18 months ago, then deleted the power steering and looped the rack so I could go off just manual steering about 2 months ago. All's been well except that today, while I was leaving the parking lot, the steering wheel kind of 'skipped' as I turned the wheels from one direction to the other. Like, it had binded. My steering wheel was off-center, and when I got back home, I tried to put it back by turning it to the other lock, but it completely disconnected from the pinion gear. I know because I removed the steering column cover and saw that the joint that connects the steering column to the pinion wasn't grabbing like it should, it just bounced off the splines. I loosened the lower bolt and the threads were completely busted. I tapped them and made them nice, but putting it through again ruined them. I got a makeshift replacement at ACE, and I tightened it way more than the torque spec of 15 lb ft, but I had to in order to get the steering wheel connected to the pinion. I drove 4 hours on the freeway just fine (kinda) and I've been not turning the wheel while the car is stationary in order to minimize the strain on the joint that's weak.
I'm thinking I need to replace the steering column. I'll inspect the splines on the upper part and the lower part and see if anything's amiss, but I really could use some advice. Have any of you had this happen? How did you fix it? Thank you very much.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

if the splines are ok, replace the joint. do NOT drive with this part rigged up.

94 Civic Si

^^^This. If you are married, buy life insurance,

muellersfan

After engaging the lower portion of the steering joint with the steering rack pinion, loosen the upper bolt of steering joint to allow the steering joint to drop down and fully seat on the rack pinion. This allows the lower bolt of the steering joint to align with and tighten into the pinion groove. Next, tighten both the upper and lower bolts of the steering joint.

It's essential that the steering joint fully seats on the pinion. If not, you'll have the problems you describe.

Jon Petersen

Thanks for the concern, guys. I really appreciate it. eghatch, are you talking the splines on the pinion gear?

Jon Petersen

okay, so let me rephrase what you said so that I can be sure I understand.
What I'll do is loosen the over-tightened lower bolt, but not all the way. Then, I'll loosen the upper bolt so that the joint slides into its appropriate place. Then I'll torque both upper and lower bolts to spec.
Is that right? Should I get a new bolt from Honda, or is the similar one from ACE going to do it? Also, I put blue threadlocker on the threads. Should I?

Jon Petersen

Also, I failed to mention that my SRS light is on, I have no cruise control, and I have no horns. I'm thinking I busted a connector up in there. Is it inside the steering wheel?
And, if anyone knows how to get the steering wheel aligned properly, that knowledge would be much appreciated.
Thanks again, guys. You're real life-savers.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

pics of yours?

mk378

You've broken the clock spring by having the wheel turn out of sync with the rack. This part (officially called the Cable Reel) makes electrical connections between the stuff mounted on the wheel (the air bag, horn button, cruise control buttons, etc) and the rest of the car.

When you have everything secure, point the front wheels straight ahead, detach the joint from the rack and turn the wheel until it is straight ahead, reattach the joint and test drive (you may need to make another small adjustment), then replace the clock spring. Follow the service manual exactly on that because it will break if installed wrong.

muellersfan

Yes

When tightened, the lower bolt MUST be aligned into the pinion groove to prevent the joint from sliding off the pinion and to allow the lower bolt to tighten the joint onto the pinion splines.

Repair the bolt and steering joint threads with a tap and die kit. You can get a free rental at AutoZone or O'Reilly.

Threadlocker is generally unnecessary for these bolts, but would not hurt.

muellersfan

I hope he just forgot to reconnect the cable reel connector, but that's being optimistic.

Jon Petersen

I tried redoing the threads on the bolt, but I busted them again when I put it through the second time. I believe the female threads on the joint are fine because the new bolt threaded in nearly perfectly. I don't want to keep re-tapping the old bolt because if I'm not mistaken, the metal weakens as you do it repeatedly.

muellersfan

The next step would be to purchase a new 10mm bolt from Honda or a hardware store.

TomCat39

If I recall, the threads are in the joint itself, I don't believe a new bolt is going to be the fix.

I think the fix is new bolts AND new joint.

muellersfan

OP stated that joint threads are fine.

tony_2018

He can retap them. I've had to do that once because of some inexperienced alignment tech.

Jon Petersen

So, for sure I should replace the B joint?
This one here?
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...3-sm4-013.html

muellersfan

Did you inspect and find that the threads were badly stripped?

If the damage to threads is minor, just get the free rental tap and die set to repair the threads. The 10mm bolt only needs 16 ft-lbs of torque.

TomCat39

Please ignore me, I assumed all threads were severely compromised and missed the detail that you believe the female threads are in good shape.

Jon Petersen

So I assumed that the female threads were fine because the new bolt threaded in just fine. The new bolt that I just removed is as badly damaged as the old bolt, though I believe it's because of the ridiculous amount of torque I applied to it to get it to stay in place, so the female threads could still be just fine. I still need to remove the steering wheel and column because I don't think that joint is going to move unless it has a lot more freedom, plus I'll need to anyway to inspect the damage to the clock spring. I'll post pictures once everything's removed.

TomCat39

I had a real bitch of a time taking off the joint. Bolts completely out and the joint would not let go for the life of me.

If anyone has any tips they could share on unseating the joint, I'm sure it would be most appreciated by old and new users alike.

muellersfan

The 6th generation (96-00) Civic manual provides more helpful guidance on removal and installation of the steering joint than does the 5th generation (92-95) Civic manual.

Removal of steering joint



Installation of steering joint
Clarification on step 10: It should tell you to insert lower bolt into joint bolt hole after aligning joint bolt hole with pinion shaft groove.

TomCat39

It still doesn't say HOW to move the joint toward the steering column.

I had a real bitch of a time getting the joint to let go of the steering rack pinion to be able to "move" it toward the steering column.

muellersfan

Was it rusted?

With a small effort, you should be able to slide the steering joint upward toward the steering column after removal of the lower bolt and loosening of the upper the bolt. If that did not happen, you should be able to disengage the splines of the joint and pinion by rocking the joint back and forth while pulling upward.

tony_2018

remove the bolts completely, use pliers and use the opening of the steering to push the joint upwards.