dohctor_B

Ok, I've been researching what to do with this ****, and it seems the general concenus is that i should cut the bolt that's connected to the shock. What should i do with the one on the left? should i cut that out also? I also heard that torching it might work. any help is greatly appreciated

Mr.EM1_EK

yeah i say cut it, then heat it up and hit it out with a puch or something.

importfan0103

the threads are all gone i assume, heating it up works but on ocassion the rubber will melt and burn and thats not good, try heaing it and spraying it with some sort of lubricant as soon ad the metal heats up and lube passes from one side to the other u will be able to bang it through cutting it works too depends what u would prefer doing best sometimes a combo of both

vtecftw

Alright listen to some one who has done this before. Now your going to have to grind the threaded area off the forward facing bracket. second your choices are to either punch out the lodged bolt with heat or drill it out. Once you have removed all the old comonents go and pick up some grade 8 bolts from your local bolt supply. If your a big spender you can go to honda and pay 12 dollars for each oem bolt and then find a nut that is the correct thread.

Best of luck,
your going to want an electric grinder
here is a picture i snapped for you, dont mind the dirt i live in the praires

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

^^ Sounds like some good info, some PB Blaster you can pick up at Autozone may help a little as well

JDM_EK_wanabe

same thing happened to me, but heating it up never worked for me, so i had to spend like 3 hours drilling it out, that was defiantly a PITA, next time remember to soak it in PBblaster each day for like 2-3 days before you do it

EK9Rider

guys if it's seized PB Blaster won't do anything..

had the same problem - pb-ed the thing for days and i was using air-tools. the bolt actually blew the seals on my impact gun.

i went out and bought a bigger gun and still no luck.

get a blow torch and heat the sucker up until the rubber melts - while it's burning hot undo the bolt with an impact gun

then purchase new bolts - a local autoparts store should have it...

i purchased new bolts from honda and spent $100 on all new bolts for the rear

dpkelly

When you jack it up in the air, the shock/spring tension is still on those bolts. Put the rear on a jackstand and place a jack under the LCA. Jack it up slightly to equalize pressure on those bolts.

dohctor_B

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpkelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you jack it up in the air, the shock/spring tension is still on those bolts. Put the rear on a jackstand and place a jack under the LCA. Jack it up slightly to equalize pressure on those bolts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And then what, hammer it out? I have a new (used) LCA to put it, so i think i might just cut it. Would drilling them out work too or would you guys not recommend that?

ke98248

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK9Rider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys if it's seized PB Blaster won't do anything..

had the same problem - pb-ed the thing for days and i was using air-tools. the bolt actually blew the seals on my impact gun.

i went out and bought a bigger gun and still no luck.

get a blow torch and heat the sucker up until the rubber melts - while it's burning hot undo the bolt with an impact gun

then purchase new bolts - a local autoparts store should have it...

i purchased new bolts from honda and spent $100 on all new bolts for the rear</TD></TR></TABLE>

aeiih, that's a lotta $$!

I just did the one side yesterday and the bolt broke on my left lca.. I had to cut off the stock one so i could get some more room for grinding.. I ground off a few other parts off the lca as well as the bolt and then finally got some vise grips and was able to thread it out.. No drilling but took 4 hours to get the damn broken bolt out!

I have to work on the other side today.

dohctor_B

any body have opinions on drilling? i have a replacement LCA

EK9Rider

burn the bushing -- it will take literally 15 minutes to do the whole rear.

the key is you have to have an impact gun and blow torch

JDM_EK_wanabe

bad idea with the impact gun, i snapped my bolt heads off with just a breaker bar

EE_Chris

After the welded-on-nut has been cut off, pound it using an air chisel.

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iSRT_Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any body have opinions on drilling? i have a replacement LCA</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you had a replacement shock you could use a plasma cutter, thats also if you had access to a plasma cutter. Broken/stripped bolts/nuts suck. GL

dohctor_B

i don't have any air tools guys, so everyone suggesting air tools... thats just out of the question

instructor74

here is an easy way. Get a saws-all with a few metal cutting blades. cut the bolt right up against the lca on both sides you will cut through the rubber bushing, the bushing sleeve and the bolt .Since you have new arms you aren't going to have to worry about damaging the bushings. swing the arm out of the way. If you cut close enough to the control arm there will be enough bolt left to get a pair of vice grips on and turn it out. The bolt tends to seize in the sleeve and not the threads. If you need heat go to your hardware store buy a can of MAP gas and a propane torch head. Map gas burns a lot hotter then propane and is not to expensive.

Edit: please don't drive the car like that it is really unsafe. 2nd buy yourself a can of anti seize it is your friend put it on the threads of every bolt that you take out it also makes a great lube for all the suspension bolts you will never have a problem getting it apart again. 3rd where in PA are you I might be able to help you out. Good luck


Modified by instructor74 at 9:57 AM 5/11/2007

JShull

Jack the car up and support the LCA like others have said and take a large hammer and a punch to them after you heat it a bit. They should pop right out. Just don't be a ***** with the hammer. I had to do my front LCA pivot bolts this way.

Good luck with it.

deadline

waht i did wuz drop the whole area in the pic..went to junk yard
got a new one bolted it up...really easy. easily take out bolts and it will drop right out.

JShull

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is an easy way. Get a saws-all with a few metal cutting blades. cut the bolt right up against the lca on both sides you will cut through the rubber bushing, the bushing sleeve and the bolt .Since you have new arms you aren't going to have to worry about damaging the bushings. swing the arm out of the way. If you cut close enough to the control arm there will be enough bolt left to get a pair of vice grips on and turn it out. The bolt tends to seize in the sleeve and not the threads. If you need heat go to your hardware store buy a can of MAP gas and a propane torch head. Map gas burns a lot hotter then propane and is not to expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Those bolts are hardened steel. The blades on the sawzall are going to dull hella quick.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
waht i did wuz drop the whole area in the pic..went to junk yard got a new one bolted it up...really easy. easily take out bolts and it will drop right out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you went and bought a whole new trailing arm and control arms b/c you couldn't get two bolts out? Damn dude. I wish I had that kind of money.

instructor74

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JShull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Those bolts are hardened steel. The blades on the sawzall are going to dull hella quick.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really lay off the drugs they are only grade 8 one blade should be more then enough to cut through them. I have cut off countless lca bolts this way just get a 3 pack of Milwaukee saws all blades and dishes are done

CRX T-Si

That **** happened to my old CRX. I took the easy way out on that one. I was changing the brakes from Drum to Disc and wanted to keep the 88 LCA's but those 2 same exact bolts broke off.

I gave it all I had and did not work so I took the easy way out. Toss that MF POS away and use different LCA.

Have anyone tried to press it out??

I mean taking the whole LCA, with the trailing arm and shock all together and press that **** out?? It's heavy but beats drilling it for 4 hours or so doing it.

blaze_125

drilling the bolts will take for ever.
Heat it up and beat it out.
Or cut it (grind it)

deadline

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JShull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So you went and bought a whole new trailing arm and control arms b/c you couldn't get two bolts out? Damn dude. I wish I had that kind of money. </TD></TR></TABLE> its really a BIOTCH. the reason i changed it out cuz the homies had a stripped out teggy for parts so i came up on it

dohctor_B

what if i cut off the nut that is attached to the shock and the one attached to the brake assembly thing (looks similar to the one in the pic). Do u think if i cut just those off i could hammer the bolt out?




Modified by iSRT_Vtec at 8:41 PM 5/11/2007