sea foam cleaner
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sea foam cleaner
I'm about to sea foam my car and I was just wondering how long you leave it in the oil, I've seen 5 mintues and 100 miles? Which one is best? And when I add it to the oil should the oil be new or can I add the sea foam right before my oil change?
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Re: sea foam cleaner
if you have to sea foam your car do it right before your oil change and take a quick drive around town and then change it do not leave it in there for that long
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Re: sea foam cleaner
Tell ya what, I'll be a nice guy (taken from one of my previous posts):
I'm just going to say this. If you have no idea what you're doing, don't do it. You can seriously damage your vehicle if you don't go about doing this correctly.
If you were looking for a complete write up for Seafoaming your car, here it is.
Materials needed:
2 cans Seafoam motor treatment (liquid)
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm
1 can Seafoam Deep Creep (spray)
http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreep.htm
Tools needed:
Funnel
Pliers (pretty much any type will work)
Phillips screwdriver
3/8" ratchet
3/8" ratchet extension
Spark plug socket
This write up is intended for those of you wanting to "Seafoam" (as it's commonly referred to) your motor. This process is used to remove carbon deposits from your throttle body, IACV, intake manifold, intake ports, piston tops, and exhaust ports - basically the entire intake and exhaust system for your vehicle. It will also clean out deposits from your gas tank and fuel lines, as well as cleaning your fuel injectors. As long as you follow the directions closely, you won't have any problems during this process.
Please note - I do not recommend this on very high mileage motors (200k+). Depending on how well your vehicle was taken care of, it's possible that the sludge and carbon inside your motor is all that's holding it together yet. The two vehicles I ran this process on both had around 120k. I didn't run into any problems with this many miles, but I've heard of people with very high mileage motors doing this and having problems with burning oil afterwards. Basically as long as your motor isn't beat to **** and in terrible shape you should be fine.
I started first of all with a full tank of gas and poured one full can of Seafoam motor treatment into the gas tank. I ran through this tank of gas before starting the process listed below.
1. Warm your vehicle up to operating temperature, then shut off vehicle.
2. Remove air cleaner tube to gain access to throttle body plate.
3. Start vehicle and allow to idle.
4. Begin slowly spraying Seafoam Deep Creep onto throttle plate, spraying small amounts every 5-10 seconds. Do not allow vehicle to bog down or die out.
5. Be sure to spray into the IACV which will be small hole just before the throttle plate.
6. Make sure to spray larger bursts onto the throttle plate while revving up the motor using throttle wheel.
7. After using around 1/2 the can, shut car off and soak the throttle plate, IACV, and intake manifold with the Seafoam spray and let sit for 15 minutes.
8. Restart vehicle (will probably be a little harder to start than normal) and allow the Seafoam to completely burn off. Shut car off.
9. Reconnect intake tube, then locate brake booster vacuum line (will be a long black vacuum hose running from intake manifold to brake booster located on the firewall).
10. Use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and pull the vacuum line off the brake booster. Start vehicle. You'll notice the vehicle idling higher and/or have a surging idle.
11. Begin slowly pouring the Seafoam motor treatment into the open vacuum line, pouring in approximately 2 tablespoons at a time. Do not allow motor to bog down or die out.
12. Be sure to rev vehicle up and down while adding the liquid. Do not add too much at a time or you'll run the risk of hydrolocking your motor. This won't be a problem if you stick with the small amounts (2 tablespoons) at a time.
13. After running approximately 2/3 of the can through the system, reconnect brake booster vacuum line and allow vehicle to burn off all of the liquid.
14. Turn off vehicle and let sit for approximately 15 minutes, making sure that it has cooled down throughly (warm to the touch, NOT hot).
15. Remove all 4 spark plugs, then pour approximately 2 tablespoons of Seafoam motor treatment into each cylinder.
16. Pour the remaining 1/3 can of Seafoam liquid into your oil system using the oil fill cap.
17. Let sit for 15 minutes, allowing the Seafoam to soak on top of the pistons.
18. Replace spark plugs and start engine (will be harder to start than normal).
19. Go for a sprited drive, making sure to rev vehicle up and down. Do not drive for more than 5 minutes or lay on the rev limiter during this time.
20. Change oil, spark plugs, and fuel filter.
21. If your vehicle threw a CEL, it's more than likely a code for the IACV or a misfire. To reset it, simply disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes then reconnect it and it should be gone.
Make sure that you change these 3 items after this process. I've seen a lot of people that didn't change their oil and ran the car with for many miles with the Seafoam in it and damaged their motor. This is because the Seafoam cuts through the oil and lowers the viscosity. Like I stated in my steps, I only ran it through the vehicle for less than 5 minutes, allowing just enough time for it to circulate through the system to clean things out and then changed the oil afterwards to remove it from the system. Also as I stated above - do not add too much of the liquid into the brake booster at a time or you run the risk of hydrolocking the motor. I've done this two times now on two seperate vehicles and haven't had a problem. This process works well as long as you do it in moderation.
It's amazing the difference it will make once you burn all the Seafoam off and change the oil, plugs, and fuel filter. It'll make your vehicle idle smoother, run smoother, and gain a slight bit of power all through the RPM range. Obviously you shouldn't be expecting a 20 HP increase, because all this will do is gain you back the HP you've lost due to carbon build up and aging parts.
I hope this clears everything up for anyone wanting to do this. If you have any more questions, feel free to post them.
I'm just going to say this. If you have no idea what you're doing, don't do it. You can seriously damage your vehicle if you don't go about doing this correctly.
If you were looking for a complete write up for Seafoaming your car, here it is.
Materials needed:
2 cans Seafoam motor treatment (liquid)
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm
1 can Seafoam Deep Creep (spray)
http://www.seafoamsales.com/deepCreep.htm
Tools needed:
Funnel
Pliers (pretty much any type will work)
Phillips screwdriver
3/8" ratchet
3/8" ratchet extension
Spark plug socket
This write up is intended for those of you wanting to "Seafoam" (as it's commonly referred to) your motor. This process is used to remove carbon deposits from your throttle body, IACV, intake manifold, intake ports, piston tops, and exhaust ports - basically the entire intake and exhaust system for your vehicle. It will also clean out deposits from your gas tank and fuel lines, as well as cleaning your fuel injectors. As long as you follow the directions closely, you won't have any problems during this process.
Please note - I do not recommend this on very high mileage motors (200k+). Depending on how well your vehicle was taken care of, it's possible that the sludge and carbon inside your motor is all that's holding it together yet. The two vehicles I ran this process on both had around 120k. I didn't run into any problems with this many miles, but I've heard of people with very high mileage motors doing this and having problems with burning oil afterwards. Basically as long as your motor isn't beat to **** and in terrible shape you should be fine.
I started first of all with a full tank of gas and poured one full can of Seafoam motor treatment into the gas tank. I ran through this tank of gas before starting the process listed below.
1. Warm your vehicle up to operating temperature, then shut off vehicle.
2. Remove air cleaner tube to gain access to throttle body plate.
3. Start vehicle and allow to idle.
4. Begin slowly spraying Seafoam Deep Creep onto throttle plate, spraying small amounts every 5-10 seconds. Do not allow vehicle to bog down or die out.
5. Be sure to spray into the IACV which will be small hole just before the throttle plate.
6. Make sure to spray larger bursts onto the throttle plate while revving up the motor using throttle wheel.
7. After using around 1/2 the can, shut car off and soak the throttle plate, IACV, and intake manifold with the Seafoam spray and let sit for 15 minutes.
8. Restart vehicle (will probably be a little harder to start than normal) and allow the Seafoam to completely burn off. Shut car off.
9. Reconnect intake tube, then locate brake booster vacuum line (will be a long black vacuum hose running from intake manifold to brake booster located on the firewall).
10. Use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and pull the vacuum line off the brake booster. Start vehicle. You'll notice the vehicle idling higher and/or have a surging idle.
11. Begin slowly pouring the Seafoam motor treatment into the open vacuum line, pouring in approximately 2 tablespoons at a time. Do not allow motor to bog down or die out.
12. Be sure to rev vehicle up and down while adding the liquid. Do not add too much at a time or you'll run the risk of hydrolocking your motor. This won't be a problem if you stick with the small amounts (2 tablespoons) at a time.
13. After running approximately 2/3 of the can through the system, reconnect brake booster vacuum line and allow vehicle to burn off all of the liquid.
14. Turn off vehicle and let sit for approximately 15 minutes, making sure that it has cooled down throughly (warm to the touch, NOT hot).
15. Remove all 4 spark plugs, then pour approximately 2 tablespoons of Seafoam motor treatment into each cylinder.
16. Pour the remaining 1/3 can of Seafoam liquid into your oil system using the oil fill cap.
17. Let sit for 15 minutes, allowing the Seafoam to soak on top of the pistons.
18. Replace spark plugs and start engine (will be harder to start than normal).
19. Go for a sprited drive, making sure to rev vehicle up and down. Do not drive for more than 5 minutes or lay on the rev limiter during this time.
20. Change oil, spark plugs, and fuel filter.
21. If your vehicle threw a CEL, it's more than likely a code for the IACV or a misfire. To reset it, simply disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes then reconnect it and it should be gone.
Make sure that you change these 3 items after this process. I've seen a lot of people that didn't change their oil and ran the car with for many miles with the Seafoam in it and damaged their motor. This is because the Seafoam cuts through the oil and lowers the viscosity. Like I stated in my steps, I only ran it through the vehicle for less than 5 minutes, allowing just enough time for it to circulate through the system to clean things out and then changed the oil afterwards to remove it from the system. Also as I stated above - do not add too much of the liquid into the brake booster at a time or you run the risk of hydrolocking the motor. I've done this two times now on two seperate vehicles and haven't had a problem. This process works well as long as you do it in moderation.
It's amazing the difference it will make once you burn all the Seafoam off and change the oil, plugs, and fuel filter. It'll make your vehicle idle smoother, run smoother, and gain a slight bit of power all through the RPM range. Obviously you shouldn't be expecting a 20 HP increase, because all this will do is gain you back the HP you've lost due to carbon build up and aging parts.
I hope this clears everything up for anyone wanting to do this. If you have any more questions, feel free to post them.
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Re: sea foam cleaner
The Honda Guy, that is an excellent right up. That's the same way my mechanic did my car. The only difference is we removed the iac to make sure the the screen was cleaned out good.
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Re: sea foam cleaner
Yea, I could have added that in about the IACV. I myself during this process removed the throttle body and IACV and cleaned them both out by hand with a wire brush and Seafoam Deep Creep. I just figured some people may not want to go the extra mile or that they didn't have new IACV or TB gaskets handy.
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Re: sea foam cleaner
i seafoamed my 97 civic with 220K on it... 30% in full tank of fuel 50% into brake booster line and 20% in oil before oil change and i saw major results with no problems.... didnt even clog the cats ;-) not to say it couldnt happen.... just givin my first hand knowledge.
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Re: sea foam cleaner
seafoam cleans up carbon build up as stated severel times.
I used it with great success but I wish I used more Ionly used 1 can for the whole thing.
I have a question though, My friend has a lot of carbon build up in his exhaust ports do you guys think it would be a good idea to put some just in the ports to get blown out after starting it? I think deep creep would be easy just spray it in there and let it sit and blow if out.
I used it with great success but I wish I used more Ionly used 1 can for the whole thing.
I have a question though, My friend has a lot of carbon build up in his exhaust ports do you guys think it would be a good idea to put some just in the ports to get blown out after starting it? I think deep creep would be easy just spray it in there and let it sit and blow if out.
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Re: sea foam cleaner
well thanks for the write up, i did see this when i searched, so don't think i didnt go searching first lol, i just wanted to clarify a question
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Re: sea foam cleaner
No, when you put it in the gas the car should not smoke unless you put it in with very little gas in the tank. That's exactly the reason I stated to use it in a full tank. IIRC 1 can treats like 8-16 gallons or something, meaning it's gotta be diluted down some. I put it in with a full tank of gas (11 gallons). If you've got smoke issues it's not the Seafoam unless you put too much in. I've seen people run too much through the intake or fuel system and dry out and crack the valve stem seals.
Like I said in the write up, 1 can for the whole thing isn't quite enough, hence why I used 2 cans along with the spray. You should be fine spraying some of the Deep Creep and letting it soak in there. I'd let it soak for a bit then try and wipe some of it off with a towel, then soak it again and repeat. I'm not sure if I'd want to wire brush the exhaust ports on the heads, that may be an iffy idea.
Like I said in the write up, 1 can for the whole thing isn't quite enough, hence why I used 2 cans along with the spray. You should be fine spraying some of the Deep Creep and letting it soak in there. I'd let it soak for a bit then try and wipe some of it off with a towel, then soak it again and repeat. I'm not sure if I'd want to wire brush the exhaust ports on the heads, that may be an iffy idea.
#17
Re: sea foam cleaner
Is it ok for me to use a can in the gas tank. But just the gas tank? I am due for an oil change so Should I add it to a full tank then when I go through the tank, change my oil?
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Re: sea foam cleaner
Yea, it's fine to use it just in the gas tank and nothing else. All you're doing then is using it like a fuel system cleaner that you'd normally purchase and put in your tank.
The reason I changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, and oil is because I wanted a completely fresh tune-up on the car. When I did all this the car had just been purchased a month beforehand, so I wanted to perform all the maintainence and make sure everything was good to go. I decided I'd do it all in one session. I say change the fuel filter because if you've never run Seafoam through the tank it will clean quite a bit of stuff out of the fuel system, meaning the fuel filter is going to catch a lot of it. I recommend plugs because running the Seafoam directly through the brake booster and intake manifold and letting it soak in the cylinders is going to get them full of carbon and such and diminish their ability to fire, not to mention new plugs are 1.50 a piece. lol Obviously changing the oil is a no-brainer if you put it in the oil and run it. The other reason I changed the oil is because some of the Seafoam spray and liquid is going to leak passed the rings into the crankcase and get into the oil, which is another good reason to change it.
The best time to perform this is when you're reading to do your first big 30k maintainence. That way you can get the fuel, intake, and oiling systems all cleaned out and replace your filters, fluids, and ignition parts with fresh pieces.
The reason I changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, and oil is because I wanted a completely fresh tune-up on the car. When I did all this the car had just been purchased a month beforehand, so I wanted to perform all the maintainence and make sure everything was good to go. I decided I'd do it all in one session. I say change the fuel filter because if you've never run Seafoam through the tank it will clean quite a bit of stuff out of the fuel system, meaning the fuel filter is going to catch a lot of it. I recommend plugs because running the Seafoam directly through the brake booster and intake manifold and letting it soak in the cylinders is going to get them full of carbon and such and diminish their ability to fire, not to mention new plugs are 1.50 a piece. lol Obviously changing the oil is a no-brainer if you put it in the oil and run it. The other reason I changed the oil is because some of the Seafoam spray and liquid is going to leak passed the rings into the crankcase and get into the oil, which is another good reason to change it.
The best time to perform this is when you're reading to do your first big 30k maintainence. That way you can get the fuel, intake, and oiling systems all cleaned out and replace your filters, fluids, and ignition parts with fresh pieces.
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Re: sea foam cleaner
is it alright if i just pour the seafoam into the gas tank while im doing the other stuff at the same time? or do i really need to run it through a week before? and by change 3 times after this process, do you mean everything (spark plugs, fuel filter)? or just the oil 3 three times?
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Re: sea foam cleaner
If you want the results that everyone else has had do it JUST like in the write up. All you have to do is follow the write up (directions.) How did you guys pass any of your tests in school if you dont know how to follow directions?
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Re: sea foam cleaner
Are my directions that seriously hard to follow? I felt they were pretty fool-proof. If you had read it says change these 3 ITEMS after the process, not change them 3 TIMES. Also, you will want to run the complete can of Seafoam through the gas tank and run that tank through BEFORE you start doing all this. That way you're starting with a fresh fuel filter that's not going to be picking up contaminants from the Seafoam running through the fuel system. You NEED to change the oil after this. Make sure you change it properly and change the filter and everything and make sure you've let all the old oil drain out.
Last edited by The_Honda_Guy; 01-10-2009 at 10:45 AM.
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Re: sea foam cleaner
I hate to sound all high and mighty, but is it possible that I can write up a How-To and put it in the FAQ? Seems like this question gets asked a TON.