yakitori

I'm looking for some REAL mugen RNR black with red lip ...could someone help me out and tell or show me what the major differences are? how I could tell so I wont get scamed thanks

nonsense

they will have the Mugen symbol and RNR on the lip. like the pic below. Here's a link to the auction for them (they aren't mine I just ran across them on ebay)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...38662

93EH6

mugen ones the paint on them is a lot flater

JDMlyfestyle

look for Made in japan embossed on the wheel

Evs-One

what you don't know won't hurt you....so why does it matter

The Rotas are probably stronger than the Mugen RNR's anyways.....why not get some old Z-Speed's...those were some pretty strong cast RNR look alikes

Hater

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what you don't know won't hurt you....so why does it matter

The Rotas are probably stronger than the Mugen RNR's anyways.....why not get some old Z-Speed's...those were some pretty strong cast RNR look alikes </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah exactly, because casting metal has proven time and time again to be much stronger than actually forging it.

yakitori

so youre sugesting I buy a set of rotas for the price of mugen wheels? if i wanted rotas Id buy rotas

Hater

I'm suggesting that if you can't afford Mugen, get Rotas. Quality is less, cost is less, and you'll be just like everyone else.

BuddyClubDC2

mmmm Z-Speeds.... I wish i could find a freakin set. Know anybody that has any? ya fat chance for me.

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah exactly, because casting metal has proven time and time again to be much stronger than actually forging it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

prove it to me that the RNR's are a true forged wheel.

They are a "semi-forged" wheel and bend ery easily

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

prove it to me that the RNR's are a true forged wheel.

They are a "semi-forged" wheel and bend ery easily</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can provide evidence that they are NOT forged... although the wheels say "squeeze process" on them...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mugen RNR Cast (soft) 15x6.5 10.5</TD></TR></TABLE>

taken from...

http://www.jimsnodgrass.com/wheels%5B1%5D.html

Who took it from...

http://www.wheelweights.net

*edit*
Here's some more...

http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/wheelmodels/267

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Manufacturing Technique:
Cast (soft)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Another with a little more info (well another word of discription at least)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mugen RNR Low-pressure Cast 15x6.5 10.5 $318, disctd </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds to me like they put some pressure on the mold as the wheel is being cast...

LAST ONE...

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/construc.htm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">• LOW PRESSURE CASTING

Low pressure casting uses positive pressure to move the molten aluminum into the mold quicker and achieve a finished product that has improved mechanical properties (more dense) over a gravity cast wheel. Low-pressure casting has a slightly higher production cost over gravity casting. Low pressure is the most common process approved for aluminum wheels sold to the O.E.M. market. Low-pressure cast wheels offer a good value for the aftermarket as well. Some companies offer wheels that are produced under a higher pressure in special casting equipment to create a wheel that is lighter and stronger than a wheel produced in low pressure. Once again in the quest for lighter weight, there is a higher cost associated with the process.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

*/edit*

BoostinEJ1

do rotas really break or w/e that easy, anyone have any pics. ive been thinking about what kinda rotas to get for some time now, i may just hold on to my oem wheels.

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can provide evidence that they are NOT forged... although the wheels say "squeeze process" on them...

taken from...

http://www.jimsnodgrass.com/wheels%5B1%5D.html

Who took it from...

http://www.wheelweights.net

*edit*
Here's some more...

http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/wheelmodels/267

Another with a little more info (well another word of discription at least)

Sounds to me like they put some pressure on the mold as the wheel is being cast...

LAST ONE...

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/construc.htm

*/edit*</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank You. More proof that the RNR"s are just hype. Why not spend the same amount and buy a true forged wheel like the MF8

NonovUrbizniz

I have Konig Heliums which are like 11-12lbs each and they bend like butter...

But I can replace 1 wheel 3 times before I've payed for ONE forged wheel...

Also I don't track my car... and curbs do infact exist in my world... I'd be pretty pissed if a second of absent mindedness in a parking lot cost me over 300 bucks...

Also if you DO track your car... wouldn't you want a light REPLACEABLE wheel...

Forged or not that **** will break if you hit something hard at high speeds. The only difference is whether you're going to pay 75-150 or 300-500 for the replacement.

Of course hitting a pothole that would not have bent a forged wheel pisses me off.

Evs-One

why do you think my track wheels are stock Miata wheels

replacements= 40 bucks each...lol.

The new daily rims are Heliums....can't beat 300 for a set, no tax and lifetime warranty through Discount

NonovUrbizniz

I agree... I actually think the heliums look better than the mugens... obviously not quite the same quality... but they rock for what they are...

I've been thinking about trying to see if a set of Saab "minilites" would fit our cars... we have a couple sets at my work... they're forged magnesium...

Evs-One

Aren;t the Saab's a 4x105 or 108 lug pattern?? I'm not exacty sure. Be dope if it worked out tho

ATS*Mark

personally , id just get some american racing tri stars

N1 Andy

miata wheels huh? we got some at my work, we only charge 15-20 for used steelies, about 2 hours south of you emerika, how are the hippies doin?

Evs-One

you don't want the steelies...too heavy.

But we're all doing good up here....nice and natual

92b16vx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aren;t the Saab's a 4x105 or 108 lug pattern?? I'm not exacty sure. Be dope if it worked out tho</TD></TR></TABLE>
Some may be, I have a set that is 4x114.3, had to use them till my real rims came in.

tangb2023

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmEGHatch6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do rotas really break or w/e that easy, anyone have any pics. ive been thinking about what kinda rotas to get for some time now, i may just hold on to my oem wheels.</TD></TR></TABLE>


i hopped over a curb at 50 mph .. only one bent the rest are fine. 15x6.5 c8's

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tangb2023 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


i hopped over a curb at 50 mph .. only one bent the rest are fine. 15x6.5 c8's</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's sounds like you got lucky to me... Depending on the angle of impact that could have torn off your whole front end... much less bent a couple alloy wheels.

I'll check the saab wheels on monday just to see... They don't have tires though...

trav

here is some pics and information. Hope it helps you out!

1. look for the mugen logo on the outside of the rim.
pic:


2. look for RNR on the outside as well
pic:


3. look for process squeezed on outdie of rim.
pic:


4. if it comes with its center caps they are silver/steel
pic:


5. they are dull and dont shine like the Rotas

and yes my rims need some cleaning loving so does my EK hehehe !

PS. Emerika ive got a bridge to sell you if your intrested. since what you don't know wont hurt you and i could always use more money in my back account !!!!

PSS. they are both squeeze processed but the mugen ones tend to be made a little better then the rotas. just my 02. and what ive seen as asked from ppl who own both. ans last note he was asking how to tell the diferance between rota blacnk & red rims and mugne balck & red rims. I totaly agree i would rather have a forged rim. but for daily driving you dont need forged rims. for racing i would get forged rims. i like the MF10Ls my self but im a migen ***** and yes i know im going to get some hurt saying that !!! LOL I just wanted to help him out and answer the posted question!

Trav.


Modified by trav at 10:39 PM 1/30/2004

rukawa1one

Ya at first I was gonna get the real mugen RNR's, but then I heard that they bend pretty easily, especially if u hit a pothole or something. I believe that mugen RNRs are for track use only. Cuz on the track, the pavement is for the most part pretty smooth, not like all the potholes and crap on city streets. So i got the tenzo mugen RNR replicas instead, only cost me about 650 with tires brand new. They weigh a little less than two pounds more than the RNRs. with the tire it weighed 40 lbs, that was 8lbs less than my stock rimsand tires!! I've hit the deepest potholes too, no dents or anything yet haha knock on wood