ScubaStevo80

Here's the pics... I have a few questions too.

Here are two HG pics... can anyone con firm that it was blown?


Here are pics of the pistons... I assume thats carbon buildup. Anything I need to do before I slap the new HG on and bolt it back up? I'm going to try to wipe the remaining bit of oil that fell onto the pistons.



Lastly, two pics of the bottom of the head... anything I need to do that besides scrape the rest of the old HG off and clean it up a bit?




Help is appreciated guys...


Modified by VolpeOwnsU at 10:07 AM 4/17/2005

Deemeetree

Make sure you clean up the entire cylinder head and block surface where they meet. Get yourself some Sea Foam and scrub away.

I believe you also need to spray some copper on your head gasket for proper sealing, I'm not enirely sure though. Someone can chime in with that area.

SOHC4life 96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you clean up the entire cylinder head and block surface where they meet. Get yourself some Sea Foam and scrub away. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That works? I thought it needed to be combusted to actually do something. Unless you are talking about the Deep Creep.

It looks good but do clean off both surfaces before you put it back together.

BauleyCivic

Just scrape off the old gasket and you're good to go. Use sandpaper, that works really well. I'd also flush the coolant out if I were you. Make sure you torque first to 22, and then to whatever the required spec is (50ish I think)

Also, look at this picture:


That silver tab in the upper left...needs to be in the bottom left of the motor (passenger side, towards the headlights)

t0p_sh0tta

Would a scotchbrite pad be too abrasive to take to that?

Sandpaper? What grit? ~500?

ScubaStevo80

I'll sandpaper it a bit after I clean it up more. I'm going to use brake cleaner instead of the seafoam stuff.

I know which way the HG goes, I just put them the same way to show the worse of the two sides on the old one.

Can someone link me to a coolant flush article? I'll def do that when everything is back together... just water for the flush right?

I wasn't planning on using the copper sealing spray since I went with the 3 layer metal. I heard that is sufficient.

BauleyCivic

I'd use copper spray anyway. Better safe than sorry.

To flush the coolant, drain the block with the huge bolt in the front of the block, then replace it. Then drain the radiator. Then, fill the radiator back up with coolant after you have assembled everything. Once the car has been turned on and has reached NOT, then top off the radiator.

ScubaStevo80

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd use copper spray anyway. Better safe than sorry.

To flush the coolant, drain the block with the huge bolt in the front of the block, then replace it. Then drain the radiator. Then, fill the radiator back up with coolant after you have assembled everything. Once the car has been turned on and has reached NOT, then top off the radiator.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I drained all the coolant when I drained my oil. The block is completely empty now. I put a new bolt and washer on the front of the block and torqued it in. So I should just fill it with coolant, let it circulate and bleed off any air in the system? What is NOT?

BauleyCivic

Yep, once everything is assembled just fill it with coolant and make sure it stays filled.

NOT = normal operating temperature

MugenHonda

I would get the head resurfaces, it seems to me a sure way so that the head will seat on the block smoothly
i know of people that have replaced head gaskets, and then have it still leak because the head needed to be resurfaced
just my 2 cents

eg crunkmonster

is it me or is that valve bent to hell, u might want to replace that valve and mill the head since its old. clean off both surfaces and put a lil copper spray and u should be fine

ScubaStevo80

Is that valve bent to hell? Looks like its out straight to me. The head was seated on the block pretty straight and I"m not going to keep it that long so I'm skipping the resurfacing part.

Evil DOHC

Dont use any sandpaper on any parts. Two things you should be using though, brake cleaner and gasket remover. Also, change the oil and the coolant after the head is back on. Where are people getting the assumption that a valve is bent? Are you a machinist? The cam is still in the head therefore pushing the valve to be open.

EVIL

Scean

any reason why the thrid piston looks so much cleaner than all the others?

ScubaStevo80

I spent a lot of time maneuvering the head to get it off and there was still oil in it, which I'm sure dripped down a bit onto the pistons. I'm going to wipe the oil off of them some more.

Evil... I dont think the valve is bent, they look fine, minus the carbon buildup. I'm going to buy the brake cleaner on friday, scrub it some more, and hopefully get it back together by Saturday. I'm anxious and hesitant at the same time, but hopefully everything will turn out alright.

Thanks for the help guys.

lohatch

take your head to a machine shop and have them resurface it. it will cost less than $20 and you will not have to scrap **** and you will know it isnt warped. i use steel wool and a razor blade to clean mine and then clean everything with brake cleaner and reassemble. i circled where it most likely blew and was entering the combustion camber. edit: you should drop a 16 valve head on there while you have it off

ScubaStevo80

I am going to do that ASAP. I figured I'd rather do it right the first time.


Modified by VolpeOwnsU at 10:09 AM 4/17/2005

BauleyCivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evil DOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont use any sandpaper on any parts.

EVIL </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why don't you recommend sandpaper? I used it on my deck and it worked fine...

lohatch

jesus who is chargin you $400 for a head. if you were local i'd give you a DX head

.BigSexy

where can you buy this copper spray at?? I just recently did a head headgasket on my b7, had the head resurfeaced and it is leaking coolant into the cylinders again....im gonna change it again in 2 weeks, what is my problem guys, could it be the block, when i got the head resurfaced, the machinest said he took it down .045 of an inch(i think, not sure of the unit of measurment) although i didnt use a metal gasket like i will this time, (damn honda wants 80 bucks and AutoZone has to order the y8 gasket, also my last question, should i invest in new head bolts? thanks in advance

ScubaStevo80

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can you buy this copper spray at?? I just recently did a head headgasket on my b7, had the head resurfeaced and it is leaking coolant into the cylinders again....im gonna change it again in 2 weeks, what is my problem guys, could it be the block, when i got the head resurfaced, the machinest said he took it down .045 of an inch(i think, not sure of the unit of measurment) although i didnt use a metal gasket like i will this time, (damn honda wants 80 bucks and AutoZone has to order the y8 gasket, also my last question, should i invest in new head bolts? thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, now I'm getting scared... that sounds like a lot of milling to me. You replaced the HG with another non-metal one? Could it have torn? Order from Hmotors online, my b8 HG was like $75 shipped. I am having the head milled by a reputable place in south jersey.


Modified by VolpeOwnsU at 10:10 AM 4/17/2005

lohatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where can you buy this copper spray at?? I just recently did a head headgasket on my b7, had the head resurfeaced and it is leaking coolant into the cylinders again....im gonna change it again in 2 weeks, what is my problem guys, could it be the block, when i got the head resurfaced, the machinest said he took it down .045 of an inch(i think, not sure of the unit of measurment) although i didnt use a metal gasket like i will this time, (damn honda wants 80 bucks and AutoZone has to order the y8 gasket, also my last question, should i invest in new head bolts? thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

i get felpro Y8 gaskets at Advanced auto parts for $28. if it isnt in stock they have it the next day. as for how much they took off when they resurfaced your head, it may have been warped and needed that much removed. on a stock block it is very rare for the problem to be the block. getting new headbolts wouldnt be a bad thing, but isnt really needed if it is just the stock motor (no major power adders) unless they have been reused numerous times. you can get copper spray at most machine shops, i would think at auto parts stores as well.

BauleyCivic

ARP headstuds own joo all!

ScubaStevo80

I'm keeping the stock headbolts, they look fine. I'm not worried about that the 70hp shaking the block too much.

jspresso

make sure you get the head re surfaced at the machine shop and get apressure test done also when cleaning the block surface use a razor to get up most of the gunk becareful not to put any gashes in it and be sure that bothe surfaces are absolutley clean and torque down @ 22lbs and then 53lbs and make sure its in the right order, just get a hynes manual or a helms