southernSCHEME

belt's already on. fuuuuuuuuuuuuu!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

shoutouts to ********.COM since half the site is reading this lol ♥

Vindicator9000

Ratchet and metric socket set, probably including 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and maybe 17mm. Wrenches in the same sizes might be good too. Trim removal tool is helpful for the fender linings.

That's about it. Loosen and take belts off the other accessories until you get to the alternator belt, then replace the alternator belt, put back on in reverse order.

southernSCHEME

i dont have p/s or a/c so it shouldnt be hard to reach

southernSCHEME

any DIY pics?

EE_Chris

For...the alternator belt?? You're not confusing the timing belt with the alternator belt, are you?

fastrxu

If you dont have a/c or p/s then you should ONLY have the alternator belt on your crank pulley.
You just need one size socket or wrench (dont remember what size of the top of my head)
And just loosen the tensioner bolt on your alt, and it should move forward about 3inches, givving you room to remove the belt

southernSCHEME

Yeah I'm a noob @ this ill give it a shot

Vindicator9000

srsly, I'm starting to wonder that too.

OP: There's nothing to it. Find the belt, loosen the tensioner, replace belt, tighten tensioner. If you're talking about the timing belt instead, that's a whole different ball of wax.

southernSCHEME

I installed the new belt but it was screeching like for 2minutes after install. Is this normal? I'm drivin the car now and it stopped its weird

southernSCHEME

Ttt..

alphalanos

check the tension. I think its supposed to be 1/4" to 1/2" of deflection. Basically when you press on it with your fingers it should only flex a small amount.

DOHCDX94

lol @ scheme.

JdM iGeN

iTrader: (1)

lulz at scheme...

southernSCHEME

♥ DADE COUNTAYYY WHERE YOU @!!!!!

JdM iGeN

iTrader: (1)

Right HERE!!!!!!

GdmLaz

lmfa0 is not that hard scheme

JasonGhostz

I'm about 150 pounds (on a rainy day with no umbrella), and for my 99 EX, I had a hard time putting enough force on my alternator to provide enough tension in the belt. I did the best I could without damaging the threads/bolts for the upper bracket, lower mount, and adjusting bolt...

but the belt still squeals on a cold engine startup! It's fine otherwise, and giving expected charge while running.

So my first question: in what order should I tighten the following bolts: #17, #20, #25?
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/i.../11/799668.png

Also wondering...

The P/S Pump has a 1/2" square to accept a ratchet to help provide leverage and get the right tension.
The A/C Belt can be tightened by adjusting the Idle Pulley height via a bolt.

Does the Alternator have anything on it or built into it (mechanically/structurally) that can put it in place (when installed by a single person)?

With the Upper Mount Bracket Bolt (#25) torqued, and the Through Bolt Nut (#17) slightly loosened, I used a wood block to help lean on it while tightening the adjusting bolt (#20), but the thing still squeals for about 3-4 seconds on a cold engine start. Page 23-125 of the Helm manual only states to loosen the upper/lower mounting bolt/nut (#17, #20), not the upper mount bracket bolt, when adjusting the Alternator Belt Tension....

Thanks in advance.

JasonGhostz

Former User

The belt should not squeak at all.

Don't loosen bolt 25 and have bolt 20 just past finger tight. Nut 17, however, should be tightened just to the point that it is difficult but not impossible to push the alternator toward the firewall using a long breaker or pry bar wedged between the engine and alternator. Now push the alternator hard with the pry bar to tighten the alt belt and hold it there while simultaneously tightening bolt 20 with a ratcheting wrench. The belt should now remain tight, allowing you to crawl under the car to torque nut 17 to spec.

JasonGhostz

Thanks, RonJ. Sometimes I just have to get over the feeling of "fragility" for my car and manhandle that ****. I just want to make sure that applying methods like these are not only safe, but sound.

I'll take another look for a good spot on the enginge to try to wedge my breaker bar into... it's quite tight in there, though... any suggestions (is there a way to do it without removing anything else)?

Thanks again!

JasonGhostz

Former User

I have had no problem fitting either a large/long pry bar or 24" breaker bar between the alternator and engine. Using leverage against the engine, you should be able to get the belt very tight.

JasonGhostz

Got things tight, and things run great on a cold engine start.

Here's a pic of the spot I used. I used my 20" 1/2" drive extension with a metal lobe just below the fuel rail as a leverage point (red dot). Pulling toward the front of the car, the bottom of the extension would push the Alternator toward the Firewall to the desired tension.


The blue arrows indicate clips/brackets I moved to make things a little easier.

Thanks for the tips, RonJ!

JasonGhostz

BigDSimp

May I ask real quick if you were pushing on your pry bar towards the firewall or were you pulling back on it towards the front bumper? I think I'm too scared to really put a lot of pressure on my pry bar because I feel like I'm going to break something. Any help is greatly appreciated!

JasonGhostz

I pulled the Extension/(Pry Bar/Lever) toward the Bumper. With the lower part of the extension pressed against the Alternator, this would push the Alternator toward the Firewall, increasing tension in the belt.

Hope this helps! Have A Great Drive!
JasonGhostz