KraKimus

i recently took my head off of my d15 non vtech motor and had the valves replaced cause they burnt up and now when i start it it just sits there and revs up over and over again....any help? its a 94 civic coupe d15 non vtech

Former User

Check for vacuum/intake air leaks and bleed the cooling system.

Any CEL codes?

fhukingviet

+1 on checking , also try cleaning your iacv, did you use a new intake gasket also

Spooled91

did it throw a code? It can be a TPS(throttle position sensor) problem.. Or even a Map sensor.

KraKimus

yeah i've 99% determined its the TPS and since only honda sells them i guess i have to get a whole new throttle body from a junk yard or pay the outrageous honda dealer price for the TPS. i took the throttle body out and socked it in carb cleaner and i'm gonna reinstall it tomorrow and see if that helps...if not then its off to honda....

Former User

What makes you believe the TPS is the problem? As you just removed the head, a vacuum/intake air leak or bubbles in the cooling system seem more likely.

Have you checked for CEL codes?

Wdpfreak145

If he soakedbhia throttle body in brake parts cleaner it could have fried his tps. Same thing happened to my buddies crx when he sprayed brake parts cleaner in it to reduce throttle body stick.

want2drive

You should deffinatly check all the vacume line's.. Check for rips and or holes..

Good luck

KraKimus

well i bled the cooling system and its still doing it but its not doing it as high...should i just let it keep going for a while to see if it stops? and yes my check engine light came on but i dont know how to check that with out the code reader plus its a 94....does it even have a connection to plug the reader into?

eg.ob

you need to cross out the service connector under the passenger side dash with a paper clip or piece of wire

eg.ob

http://datawave.oommm.com/attach/1/M...a80f7937af.jpg

its looks like this, its the small two pin connector you have to cross.

KraKimus

ok so i tried everything, its not a bubble in the collant system cause i bled it for a quite a while and started it and let it warm up to the operational tempurature and its still doing it; i checked for leaks in every possible hose, bolt, and basically anything that moves and can be disconnected or adjusted, the throttle plate isn't actually opening and closing while its revving up and down. every possible symptom points to the tps so i'm gonna replace it or just the entire throttle body with the mass airflow sensor and the tps all together. also what is the hose on the head that runs towards the firewall? its large and black(of course lol) and looks like it could be some type of coolant hose. anyays whats it called cause i need to get a new one cause i have to cut it and repair it when i took the head off cause it would come off from either end it was stuck. also my check engine light is on and i dont know how to check it and that link the other guy posted didnt help because its just a picture of the connectors and doesnt say what to do or how to read what i'm doing. oh yeah i'm not sure if this is supposed to happen or not but when i pull the connector out of the tps it redlines until i cut the car off.

Timinim187

You honestly need to "boost" test your intake manifold. go to home depot and make a boost leak tester similar to the one that you would use on a turbo to check for leaks. It will cost you like 10$ and 10 minutes to take off your intake. Use these plans but make sure that the coupler is the right dimention for your throttle body. This one is the diameter for a supra but the general idea is there.

Parts Required

3" to 2" Coupler 2" PVC Cap Air Line Fitting Teflon Tape

Parts Required:
1 (3" to 2") Rubber Coupler w/ Clamps
1 (2") PVC Cap
1 (1/4") Air Hose Fitting
Teflon Tape



Boost Leak Tester Assembly

Assembly Notes: This boost leak tester was designed to fit over a 3inch turbo inlet. If your turbo inlet size is different than 3", you will have to purchase a different coupler that will fit over your turbo inlet, and possibly a different PVC Cap depending on what size the opposite side of the coupler is. The assembly process is the same though, as long as one side of the coupler can fit over your turbo inlet, and the other side ends up with the PVC Cap in it.


Step 1:
Drill a hole in the top of the 2" PVC Cap.
Step 2:
Wrap 1/4" Air Hose Fitting Threads in Teflon Tape.
Step 3:
Screw 1/4" Air Hose Fitting into 2" PVC Cap.
Step 4:
Place 2" PVC Cap in the 2" side of the coupler and tighten the clamp.
Pressure Regulation Note: This boost leak tester was designed to be used with an air compressor that has a built in pressure regulator. If your compressor is not able to control the amount of pressure it puts out. You can purchase an in-line pressure control regulator and gauge from the air compressor section at the hardware store, and set the target pressure right at the tester.

This is just a quick copy and paste from a google forum, there are many different ways to make this but this is pretty much the easiest. Just dont put 100psi through your intake mani of you will mess some **** up. I hope this helps

The_Honda_Guy

Sounds to me like you don't have the cooling system bled because this is exactly what Honda's will do when there's air trapped in it. The best way to bleed it is just to leave the radiator cap off and let the car run for a while until the cooling fan turns on. Last head swap I did the car needed to run with the heat on full-blast vent for approximately 20-25 minutes before it stopped surging and all the air was out of the system. Also, it really helps if you pick up a spill-proof funnel, trust me, it'll be the best 25 bucks you spent:

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...ng_system.html

Been using this for 2 years now and love it. Comes with multiple adapters for almost every vehicle out there. This makes it easy to get all the air out of the system and keeps you from having to fill the radiator bit by bit.

KraKimus

but i didnt remove or move at all my intake....i simply unbolted my headers and my intake manifold and pull the headers down and lifted the head up and out....but back to my question....what is that hose i was talking about?

KraKimus

fine i'll try bleeding it ONE LAST TIME before i go buy the sensor............

The_Honda_Guy

Telling you that it's not the TPS sensor. If you buy one you're wasting your money.

R666_EK

Yes, don't buy a TPS sensor yet. I very much agree that its most likely air in the lines causing the IACV to act up.

Could just be a coincidence. Have you tried cleaning or replacing it?

To check the code try here. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

But if in the end for whatever reason it turns out that the TPS is bad, you can order one online like the BLOX. They only run 30 bucks from JHPUSA.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=2439

JDMB20TDA

there is no maf on you honda civic.
its a map and it wouldnt cause a idle problem like this.
heater core hose. or does it come off the hot pipe?

google or...
toss a paper clip in the connector on the passenger side under the dash near door.
watch for blinks in the check engine light, long =10 short = 1
post up code#.

it shouldnt even rev if you pull the tps off, just not deliver correct amounts of fuel. and run like crap.

who even suggested tps? it has nothing to do with idle, or lopey idle.



check the tps with a dmm.
why just replaces parts without diagnosing problems?
Ground dmm, and using a T pin/sewing needle push through back side of connector weather seal.
connect one side to center lead, if its giving you ~.5 volts @ closed throttle and ~4.5 volts@ Wide Open Throttle (WOT@KOEO), its fine.

The_Honda_Guy

Also, I don't think I've ever seen a TPS go bad on anything besides RX-7's. They're pretty fail-proof sensors. I've seen MAF's go bad due to their working nature, but a TPS? I doubt it.

KraKimus

so yesterday i ran it for about half an hour until the fans came on and everythign then i noticed the hose running from my throttle body to the back of the intake was leaking cooling and i believe that is leading to the idle control valve....so i'm gonna replace that hose and try again....when i put a paper clip in the connector do i have to cut on my car or just click it over to the on position?

tmzcivic

Once the paperclip is in, put the key on ACC (accessory) position. Do not start the car. Long blink means 10, short blinks mean 1.
As an example*** long long short short short means= 10+10+1+1+1= Code 23 Knock sensor

KraKimus

ok its out there reving up and down...been going for about 20 or 25 minutes or so still doing it...the temp gauge isnt up at normal yet so im just gonna let it keep going until it is...hell even until the fans come on...the rad cap is off like i was told to do...man i hope this works i miss driving it and tired of it sitting in the garage.....

KraKimus

ok i let it run for well over a ****ing hour and **** started poping and ITS STILL DOING IT! i dont know what else to do besides the check engine light....so i'll post back after i check that

KraKimus

ok the light just does one long one then cuts off around the same time a noise from the back happens but i'm pretty sure thats just my fuel pump or whatever....but yeah thats what it does...i turn the key on and the light stays on for about 2 seconds and thats it.