EKhothatch

I just reinstalled my brakes on my project h22 93 civic si. When I torque down the caliper bolts to the hub, the bolts for the caliper press against the back of the rotor preventing it from moving. Why is this? I'm pretty sure there wasn't a washer or spacer that was with the bolt when I removed it but there must be something if the rotor won't clear it now.

I just replaced my stock severely worn out brakes, with brembo stock rotors, aem pads, goodridge ss lines.

I did also removed the brake dust shields. I'm not sure if that is could have caused the problem or not, I don't remember the shield having anything to do with the mounting of the caliper though. Brakes aren't my specialty, so any suggestions?

EKhothatch

ttt

owen_the_soyboy

was your car stock? (were the bolts stock?)

the dust shield plays no role in spacing the rotor from the hub.
the bolts you mention can easily be spaced back out with a washer, no harm in that.
are you sure you got the correct rotors?

good luck

EKhothatch

Yep, stock bolt. I checked last night, your right dust sheild has no parts in the caliper. I have the correct rotors. Their the correct size and thickness. I thought about it last night and figured I could just add a washer (just like you said) and it should be all good. Except if the threads don't go all the way through the caliper mount hole, then I may have a problem. Thanks for your help owen.

owen_the_soyboy

well dont use a mammoth thick washer, just something to get the bolt backed out a little bit, like a 1/16" clearance from the rotor.

EKhothatch

LOL, yea I didn't mean it like that, what I meant was the bolt threads not going all the way through cuz I'm pretty sure their only as long as the thinkness of the caliper mount hole (now that I think about it, I think I'm making this hard then it is lol ) but thanks for the help.

Also, I thought about grinding a little bit off the end of the bolt just enough for clearance. I don't see that affecting too much either. But I'll stick with the washer trick and see if it works for me.

kommon_sense

Not trying to be difficult, but obviously something went wrong here. If you don't have a manual, I would go and get one and redo the job. If not, then take it to a brake shop and let them do it. You shouldn't be using washers, or grinding, etc. on a regular brake job.

EKhothatch

Yea, That's what I'm saying. But I started with the same bolts that I'm re-installing with. I did nothing wrong, that I can see. I have a Haynes and I follow it if I've never attempted something or have a doubt on what I'm doing. The bolts didn't make contact with the old set-up but the old parts were wore down quite a bit from the previous owner. The only thing I can think of is, the new rotor that have is too thick or the wrong offset or something (I'm almost positive it is not).

I dont' see why putting a washer or grinding it down some will effect anything. But thats why I made this post to make sure that it won't from anyone that has more experience then me with brakes. Anyone disagree? I mean I know I shouldn't have to modify anything to reassemble a stock brake job but if I have to do it, I have to. It's not like the bolt is going halfway in and hitting or anything. Its just when the bolt is tightened it almost makes contact and when its torqued down it makes contact in certain spots (rotor will not turn).

kommon_sense

my thinking is that something is wrong and washers/grinding/etc. is a solution, but still a hack. Your brakes are just too important to hack.