JDM_SOHC

i took off the 4 10mm bolts, but that things still pretty on there it seems like... also the 2 10mm nuts that are just to the right of the Rear main seal and just to the left, the ones on the oil pan... I went to take those off an they were like already halfway there.. Now assuming my oil pan gasket was leaking, would i be able to tell by oil on the frontside of the oil pan accumulating all over the nuts??? Im pretty positive that like 90% of the oil from under my car is my rear main seal just cuz the way the flywheel throws oil around stands out, but i have oil all over the front of my oil pan too, an now i found out i have loose nuts on there im starting to think maybe that gasket is bad too..



now a pic of oil pan...



So yeah, how do i take off that bracket, and does it look like i need a new oil pan gasket as well..?? I just dont see how a bad rear main seal would throw oil on the frontside of the oil pan... Thanks guys... And im not thread-whoring, im just making each one of my questions as simple as possible with pics and everything thats why each one is a different thread,

JDM_SOHC

bump me plz ITS HOTTTTTTTT

Slurp56

If you're just replacing that seal, then you shouldnt need to remove that bracket. Use a pick and remove the seal (do not jam the pick between the crank and the seal, if you nick the crank, it will still leak with a new seal). Then use a small hammer and coax the new seal in place.

If you must remove that bracket, the 2 studs on the bottom go through the oil pan, you'll need to drop the pan.

It is quite possible that you need a new oil pan gasket as well, they are under $20, so I would do it, especially if you are going to drop the pan. As a note though, over time with all the heating/cooling of the pan, they will tend to warp slightly. Often times the only way to fix the leak is by replacing the pan itself so you have a flat surface on the gasket.

JDM_SOHC

there we go... to u...

well yeah from the looks of it, im thinking a new oil pan gasket isnt such a bad idea... an i got a gasket for that bracket with my rear main seal set, so i figured i'd replace that too... but seeing as i have to take off the oil pan gasket anyways im guessing it wouldnt be such a bad idea...

now as far as bonding issues... i've searched an read an im no noob from the get go, so im assuming its a 4 point bond that would go on here to the oil pan?? I've heard using a small bead around the whole oilpan gasket but others said it shouldnt be needed at all... it just gets really hot down here sometimes so expanding would be more relative for a car like mine so i think ill put it just to be safe right??

and what kind should i use considering i have no hondabond and autozone is my only hope right now lol... "its 2 streets away, i can jog"...

Bakeoff

Just get some high temp RTV.

As for pulling the seal out with a pick... It's been a while since I've done a D series rear main, but have an H22 rear main fresh in my mind. That one was a weird coated steel seal that required using a press to get in correctly.
Taking the plate off will definitely make it easier to get the new seal back in. Don't use the new seal for the plate. Just use some more RTV. Clean mating surfaces until they're spotless, RTV, bolt it down. The paper seal in the kit is a joke.

JDM_SOHC

hey look what i found in my sock drawer...

Slurp56

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bakeoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for pulling the seal out with a pick... It's been a while since I've done a D series rear main, but have an H22 rear main fresh in my mind. That one was a weird coated steel seal that required using a press to get in correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct, just about all the round seals consist of a steel ring coated with rubber to give it rigidity. I've done a few rear mains and I've always pulled them with a pick and installed them with a hammer and/or large punch.

Tap the seal into the plate until the punch bottoms out against the outside lip of the housing. This will give you a seal that is installed pretty flat into the housing. Of course, if you're already pulling the pan, removing the housing isnt a big deal, but I didnt always have to pull the pan.

JDM_SOHC

i cant get that housing off... once i have the oil pan off does that make it free from all bolts holding it down?? i took out the 4 10mm bolts, an oil pans off now, but it wont budge...

ghettochild

hit it with a big hammer

Slurp56

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i cant get that housing off... once i have the oil pan off does that make it free from all bolts holding it down?? i took out the 4 10mm bolts, an oil pans off now, but it wont budge...</TD></TR></TABLE>

It typically has some honda bond on the underside. Use a small pry bar or screwdriver and gently pry it away from the block. It should come free, but you may need to convince it.

JDM_SOHC

I'm callin it quits for the day, but does the hub that the flywheel bolts to come off with that piece?

RCautoworks

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slurp56 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're just replacing that seal, then you shouldnt need to remove that bracket. Use a pick and remove the seal (do not jam the pick between the crank and the seal, if you nick the crank, it will still leak with a new seal). Then use a small hammer and coax the new seal in place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That works but sometimes they need to be pressed out. When you remove the nuts from the oil pan, there are two studs actually. So you have to take the whole oil pan down.

JDM_SOHC

yeah i completely removed the oil pan and all surrounding nuts/bolts... so there are none holding that bracket on its just sealed on it seems lol..

RCautoworks

Make sure when you press the new one in, you have the right spacing in the back.

Slurp56

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_SOHC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm callin it quits for the day, but does the hub that the flywheel bolts to come off with that piece?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, that is part of the crank.

It looks like the plate has 2 alignment holes that slide over pegs from the block. They may be corroded which is causing it to stick on there. I've never had much of a problem using a screwdriver or small prybar to pry it away from the block. Just dont be a gorilla and break anything

JDM_SOHC

haha yeah i see those positioning holes that are part of the block, i thought they were threaded from inside of the block thats why i was like WTF..!! lol but yeah ima go give it a shot now... I repainted my oilpan black so its all OEM'ish lookin again lol...

I did all of this because i was thinking i was gonna find a messed up pressure plate or messed up clutch or just something was gonna be messed up cuz my tranny has been actin shitty.. but my ISB has no play in it whatsoever and with the tranny off it seems to go in gear fine "the old screwdriver shift trick" is how i tested...

how can u tell if u have a bad slave cylinder??? i have no components leaking and all my fluid levels are good but could something still be wrong with my slave cylinder.?? i replaced my master and slave both about 2 months ago...??

Slurp56

The main problem with them is leaking when they go bad. You can have a buddy push the clutch while you watch the movement of the slave cylinder, but thats about it. If neither are leaking, and you aren't losing fluid, maybe try bleeding it again.

Also, while the tranny is out, inspect the spings on your clutch disc. Look at the tabs that hold them in place and make sure they aren't starting to loosen up.

You get that plate off?

JDM_SOHC

yup got plate off an old rear main out new seal in... also put a new gasket in there, suprising though there wasnt a gasket behind that plate but the rear main seal set i bought came with 1 for it... "came with like 3 gaskets actually im guessing each one is 4 a different vehicle"...

but i put it back together along with new oil pan gasket and some RTV gently beaded around perimeter of it...

and yeah i was gonna ask why i have this apart... if nothing is seemingly broken on clutch disc or pressure plate does that mean its all fine..?? i mean all the teeth are aligned on the pressure plate and there very firm... and the springs on the clutch disc are all very firm also...

importfan0103

wish i saw this earlier i had the same thing happen to me thought it was the oil pan gasket( i had more then two loose bolts) but it wasnt it was just the rear mail seal and yeah the flywheel throws oil around but the reason for it being towards the front is just the way the engine sits the oil will flow to the lowest point on the oil pan and that is the front. and the bracket u removed with no gasket behind it you dont really need to change it just the rear main seal and as someone said use a lil chizzle and hammer cautiously and then i put my rear main seal back with a mallet with small taps as well. this is just for future refrence to anyone it is good to change both at the same time tho but if you dont have the time etc

JDM_SOHC

yeah that method with the hammer would probably work as long as you were careful... it seemed to make more sence for me to just change the oil pan gasket as well since it had oil accumulated all over it but lemme tell ya, taking the oil pan off to get to that bracket makes the rear main seal job 90x easier lol.... than u just push it out an wedge new one in an u can see the lip where it sits at so ur sure ur snug against it..