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I replaced the clutch a year ago, along with rear main seal. about 307,000 miles.
At about 330,000:
Shop Replaced the oil pan twice within 2 months thinking it was the pan still leaking. also replaced pcv.
at 343,000:
Finally shop put dye into the oil, then they decided it was the rear main .
They replaced the Rear main with Honda seal.
And put a Crank Shaft Repair sleeve part number 99315 because there was a groove developed under the Rear Main seal from wear.
Shop said the sleeve was a little too long so they shaved off about a 1/16.
They put it back together and it still leaks a steady steam.
Now they are going to take it back apart and either replace the Repair Sleeve with a Felpro version ( looks different), or remove it and try only a new Rear Main.
Shop said there was no side to side movement of the crank. Said it was really tight. Especially for that many miles
How to you tell if there is too much crank case oil pressure? How do you test?
Yeah for all the money you've dumped in it, I'd look into a JDM engine replacement. That can't be cheap to keep taking the transmission off just to repair that seal with that mileage.
Its on the rack today still. Shop said $420 labor to fix rear main.
Now after they tried the first Repair Sleeve, which when I went to look at it today, the metal sleeve was bunched up from them putting on the clutch. Seems something caught and crunched the sleeve. I would think it was the mechanics fault, not the thickness of the sleeve that caused the clutch to not fit over the Crank properly.
So its sits there right now. Waiting for Felpro tool 13600 for their version of repair sleeve #16275 ( which is not as wide as the previous Repair Sleeve and doesnt have nearly as tall a back lip as the 99315 version.
felpro 16275 smaller flange
99315 larger width and bigger back flange.<br/>Big cup thing is the tool to put it on with
Though Tire Town and Muffler (tallahassee), who is the shop doing the work, were the ones to tell me of the Repair Sleeves, now after they mucked up the first sleeve, are telling me that I just need to replace the Crank, but I still owe them the $420 even if they dont fix the problem.
Now they said that they are willing to to try the Felpro 16275 sleeve but not feels that it wont work anyway. We are now waiting for the $35 tool to put it on tomorrow.
Luckily Oreilys auto parts returned my money for the messed up Sleeve, and Honda said I could return the ruined $28 seal and swap it out no charge.
Between changing the oil pan, gasket, and this rear main I am in $700 already!
Jeeez. Should have just bought a rebuilt motor for $2000, oil pan and all the gaskets and stuff to switch component over to new motor.
I tried looking for an Off-set Rear Main seal for Honda civics but found none.
I saw that others said that Teflon seals sit in diff spot than normal seal, but I cant find one for Honda civic either.
So I guess tomorrow we are going to try the Felpro Repair Sleeve and the Honda brand Rear Main Seal together and see what happens.
If still leaking I guess either:
bring to Honda and Pay $680 to see if they can fix.
If Honda can fix then go back to first shop and get my money back from them for not doing the job that honda did. (most likely have to sue to get the money in that case.)
I had one of those magic sleeves on an engine that did the same thing.bunched up and tore the seal. Never could get it right either.
Side note, i picked up an engine for 450 and after all seals and refinishing valves in the head only have 800 in it. So you can definitely get something done under 2g. But doing it yourself saves money and builds knowledge and experience
I wouldn't use those sleeves at all, rather knock the seal in just past the groove (if it doesn't bottom out first) or leave it spaced out a hair from the groove.
Are you suppose to put Loctite 515 between the repair sleeve and the shaft?
A mechanic at another reputable shop, who used sleeves before and never had problems with them, said to put that version of loctite between the surfaces so that the sleeve so that it is alway moving with the crank shaft.
Well it just got off rack and no leaks. they put the Felpro sleeve on without the tool. Shop said that the tool wouldnt fit into the "hub" to push the sleeve on.
Last night I saw that Felpro and another manufacture of them said that deep grooves should be filled in with a metal filler epoxy of some type. The shop did not do this.
I hope that the steel strength of that sleeve is sufficient to not allow the new seal to push down into the old groove under the sleeve.
If you dont hear from me on this in the future...no leaks!
Total damage $420 labor for rear main seal install.
$28 Honda Rear main seal.
$14 felpro repair sleeve
($36) install tool wasnt used, so see if can return.
$75 Specter oil pan
$15(?) oil pan gasket-felpro
$120 labor to install oil pan.
$20 Oil and filter.
free Autozone warranty replacement of clutch set-while off anyway.
========
$692
I have checked into prices for the rare vtec-e D15z1 motor.
They are all over $900 plus shipping of about $300. Used.
Now rebuilt, reman, or crate motors are about $2000.
Sure you can get other B and D motors to fit, for cheaper, but they are not the fuel efficient D15z1 vtec-e motor. Plus then if you got something different they you would have to get another ecu $120 and diff harnesses and such.
Ok, saga continues.
Shop left me message that car was done and to bring only CASH. Hmmmm....
I get there and asked them before I paid them cash to put in on rack and let me inspect underneath. He refused to do that. He said I can check it in the parking lot and see if it is dripping.
They pulled up the car, turned it off, I climbed under to see what I could see.
There was drips of oil on the oil pan. Jeez. He stood by as he watch me look. I showed him the oil on my finger. He said he aint putting it back on the rack. He reached in and took the key and said to come in when done.
I felt all around the edge of the oil pan, as best as I could given low ground clearance, and felt no major oil on my hand.
I went back in he gave me the receipt and said no warranties. I paid him and left.
As I was driving I thought it didnt shift as easily. Had to wiggle and hunt a little to find the gears.
I drove about 8 minutes thru heavy traffic and stopped in parking lot to inspect for oil dripping, this time with car running. I noticed oil dripping down from the clutch shield!
OMG. I called Tire Town and Muffler back, was put on hold for owner, I hung up and decided to have another shop(Der Meister) inspect before I complained. Thinking it just might have been brake cleaner or something dripping down still.
I stopped at shop and we found the oil pan had about 5 nuts loose, and 3 others were tight but were leaking anyway!
We cleaned up the area of the rear main and the oil pan nuts and such, checked with UV black light and spotted the nuts that were leaking.
Rear main didnt seem to be leaking. We let it run for about 30 minutes and still no leak near rear main, but those 3 nuts on oil pan were leaking. Der meister didnt charge me for helping me figure out leak. Super nice owner. Suggest I contact Florida Consumer Services to complain.
I took off and the shifting got worse and worse, and clutch peddle was getting less and less, I could no longer take it out of gear to change. I turned off the car, put it into 2nd gear, restarted in 2nd and drove home in 2nd. While car was running I couldnt change gears at all now.
I just now checked the brake fluid, which seems to be used for clutch fluid also, but it was only a little bit low.
What do you think is causing the shifting problem? Oil on clutch? Something not adjusted correctly and is loose??
Actually the clutch WAS working fine and only had about 35,000 miles on it.
I had changed it last year. Shop said my throw out bearing was rusty and should be replaced, so I took old clutch set back to AutoZone for warranty, and they gave me a free replacement set.
Doing a little research (mind you, only a little), I have not been able to find a JDM equivalent to the D15Z1 except the 3 stage D15B motor.
Running it as a Z1 may work but not sure if the top end will suffer as the 3 stage may have the middle lobes designed a little differently as they expect to utilize a third wild cam lobe.
The 3 stage D15B tends to be close to 900 bucks before shipping anyways.
Actually the clutch WAS working fine and only had about 35,000 miles on it.
I had changed it last year. Shop said my throw out bearing was rusty and should be replaced, so I took old clutch set back to AutoZone for warranty, and they gave me a free replacement set.
The 3 stage D15B tends to be close to 900 bucks before shipping anyways.
..yet close or less than the price the OP will pay when his journey is done, without the migraines. And who knows, with more intensive shopping around, lower prices may be found.
Yeah, I checked....there is not. Diff fuel economy because JDM closest match has more HP, JDM has JDM bigger intake ports, piston head are not as dished.
If someone here knows for sure an exact equivalent, let me know and I will check prices.
If I spend $2000 on motor to get 25% better MPG, I will break even at $8,000 in gas costs.
$8,000/ $3.50 gallon = 2285 gallons.
2285*55MPG = I must drive 125,675 miles before it pays for its self.
So about 2.5 years of driving.
Yeah, I checked....there is not. Diff fuel economy because JDM closest match has more HP, JDM has JDM bigger intake ports, piston head are not as dished.
Not exactly, the 3 stage is like combining the D15Z1 and the D16Z6 into one motor. It's also an OBD2 motor not OBD1 but is a moot point with fuel rail and intake swaps.
Basically it has vtec and vtec-e so the low profile cam lobe (vtec-e), the normal non vtec cam lobe and then the higher profile "wild" (vtec) cam lobe. It has two solenoids instead of one as it utilizes two different vtec models in one head.
The D15Z1 and even the D16Z6 is a 2 stage motor. The D15B dual solenoid motor is a 3 stage motor. I'm sure it can be run as the Z1 but where it may suffer is in the non vtec mode. The Z1 might have a slightly more aggressive non vtec lobe due to not expecting to go into a performance lobe mode.
Sort of like the difference in the D15B7 intake cam lobe and the D16Y8 non vtec intake cam lobe. The B7 is slightly more aggressive being it doesn't have another lobe to go into in the upper RPM range. Where the Y8 is slightly less aggressive and uses a vtec cross over to go into a lobe that is significantly more aggressive over the B7.
10-29-2014, 05:49 PM
rear main leaking still after replacement
Re: rear main leaking still after replacement
