SE7EN3S

I am working on my rear disk swap and need some advice about my rear hub assembaly. At first inspection of the rear trailing arms I noticed the bent piece in the bushing below. -



That says side impact to me, so I desided to take a closer look. I found the nut to the back of the hub assembaly off center (Picture two) - You can see where the bolt used to line up. It's a good 2-3mm . And the hub has just the slightest bit of "walk" in it when you tug back and forth on the studs.



What do you guys think about this?! Put in on a see what happens? get a New hub? Should I take the front of the hub apart and try and re-align the spindle bolt? And just 'expletive' if I need a new trailing arm! - I've spent a ******* fortune on this suspension project!

Any help is great appreciated!

JOEY F.

Dang, I think youre right on the side impact thing. I wouldnt take any chances and get a new (used from a junkyard) trailing arm. It looks like the mount point where the rear spindle bolts to is bent, which would translate to the hub and finally the wheel. But this really depends on how MUCH the spindle is bent...from the pic it looks like enough to be off.

I remember a thread around here stating you can swap over all the Rear disc hardware to your drum equipped trailing arms.

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOEY F. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I remember a thread around here stating you can swap over all the Rear disc hardware to your drum equipped trailing arms.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes,you could swap that hub over to your current trailing arm.be sure to inspect the hub to see if it's bent or cracked before doing so-although the spindle is very tough,and i've never seen one break or bend-the trailing arm or some other component always seems to first.you may need new bearings to remedy the slop-i wasn't sure if you meant the whole hub assembly moves,or just the hub on the spindle.
Chris

SE7EN3S

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes,you could swap that hub over to your current trailing arm.be sure to inspect the hub to see if it's bent or cracked before doing so-although the spindle is very tough,and i've never seen one break or bend-the trailing arm or some other component always seems to first.you may need new bearings to remedy the slop-i wasn't sure if you meant the whole hub assembly moves,or just the hub on the spindle.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would totally have to take apart the trailing arm. I would have to swap out the caliper mounting braket behind the hub as well- Yickes! (All of the six star bolts behind the rear nut would need removed - You can see two of these in the second picture) Also, the hub part numbers for the Si and the Ex are different!

And yes, I ment just the hub on the spindle! It's a VERY minor 'walk', but enough to notice, none-the-less. Also, While rotating the hub, I notice no "warp" as the bub turns.

Additional Comments appreciated. Thanks guys!

johnecon2001

I ended up with a bent trailing arm on my swap too.. There are a bunch of Sol's and Si's at my local junk emporium, so I would imagine it shoudn't be too hard to get a new one.

I wouldn't mess with it, just get a new one.

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SE7EN3S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would totally have to take apart the trailing arm. I would have to swap out the caliper mounting braket behind the hub as well- Yickes! (All of the six star bolts behind the rear nut would need removed - You can see two of these in the second picture) Also, the hub part numbers for the Si and the Ex are different!

And yes, I ment just the hub on the spindle! It's a VERY minor 'walk', but enough to notice, none-the-less. Also, While rotating the hub, I notice no "warp" as the bub turns.

Additional Comments appreciated. Thanks guys! </TD></TR></TABLE>
i just did it recently.you do have to strip it down to the bare hub.the Torx bolts are usually seized up.use a propane torch to heat them a little,and they'll come right out.
i had a rear disc swap off a car that had been hit hard in the left rear.the trailing arm was bent,but the whole hub assembly is fine.
is the 32mm hub nut properly torqued and it still has play?if so,you will need new bearings.the rear are sold as a whole unit,including the hub.
Chris

SE7EN3S

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i just did it recently.you do have to strip it down to the bare hub.the Torx bolts are usually seized up.use a propane torch to heat them a little,and they'll come right out.
i had a rear disc swap off a car that had been hit hard in the left rear.the trailing arm was bent,but the whole hub assembly is fine.
is the 32mm hub nut properly torqued and it still has play?if so,you will need new bearings.the rear are sold as a whole unit,including the hub.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you just did the hub swap to the drum arm?! You didn't happen to do a 'how to' on that, eh?!

I tightened the hub nut to 134ft/lbs (it's not in the Helms manual so I torqued it to the 'spindle nut' specs)

Maybe I'll just have honda throw another hub assembaly on and call it a day.

SE7EN3S

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnecon2001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ended up with a bent trailing arm on my swap too.. There are a bunch of Sol's and Si's at my local junk emporium, so I would imagine it shoudn't be too hard to get a new one.

I wouldn't mess with it, just get a new one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gonna check some yards tomorrow! Thanks

pdiggitydogg

just undo the torx bolts and that large nut, then you can remove the hub
All trailing arms are identical, so you really dont "need" the bent one OR to get a new one - use your own

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SE7EN3S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you just did the hub swap to the drum arm?! You didn't happen to do a 'how to' on that, eh?!

I tightened the hub nut to 134ft/lbs (it's not in the Helms manual so I torqued it to the 'spindle nut' specs)

Maybe I'll just have honda throw another hub assembaly on and call it a day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes,swap the disc spindle assembly onto the drum arm.don't have a how to,but it's pretty simple.strip the trailing arm on the car down to nothing-remove the whole brake assembly and spindle,along with the brake and e-brake lines.
remove the caliper assembly and rotor from the new trailing arm.then remove the 32mm nut to remove the hub.also take off the splash shield.this will allow you to get to the Torx bolts.like i said above-a little heat really helps them come out.do the reverse to install everything back on your stock trailing arm.
one advantage of this is you won't alter your alignment specs if you leave the trailing arm on the car.
Chris

JasonGhostz

Dang.. the bushing is definitely unusable. At best, you'll have to buy a new shaft and bushing, and reseat it. Hopefully, the rest of the arm is straight.

The important thing is the straightness of the spindle assembly, since you can (presumably) swap spindle assemblies between TAs. The "inside" (furthest from the wheel, the end with the nylock nut on it) of the spindle assembly looks to be off, so I don't know how possible this is. Any impact that is strong enough to do this will easily cause your rear hub's bearings to gain play. Hopefully any damage that causes this will be isolated to the TA, and not your spindle assembly... Also important is the reusability of the spindle hardware, since none of us dummies can seem to find a place that sells them yet.

Check out this thread...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349450

I went through a similar process, but for different reasons. The thread discusses a little bit about spindle/hub compatibility. If you want to replace your hub, you can use Beck-Arnley #051-6005, BCA/National #512034, or Honda P/N #42200-SR3-A06. These are all NON-ABS hubs. The ABS Hub has too large of an inner diameter to fit otherwise (assuming your spindle is from a non-ABS vehicle).

Good luck at the junkyard! Let us know how things turn out!
JasonGhostz

SE7EN3S

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JasonGhostz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The important thing is the straightness of the spindle assembly, since you can (presumably) swap spindle assemblies between TAs.
JasonGhostz</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn Jason, Nice work and pictures!! - Are you saying I could swap the 'spindle assembly' from my Ex trailing arms? Do you are a picture of the spindle assembly from the side?


-- This is my concern, I don't think the arm is bent, but possibly the spindle.

TeamNextGenChris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SE7EN3S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn Jason, Nice work and pictures!! - Are you saying I could swap the 'spindle assembly' from my Ex trailing arms? Do you are a picture of the spindle assembly from the side?
-- This is my concern, I don't think the arm is bent, but possibly the spindle.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
the spindle(the part you have pictured)from your drum brakes is not able to be used with the disc brakes.if your new disc brake spindle is in fact bent,you'll have to get another one for disc brakes.
again,the bare trailing arms(not including the spindle)ARE the same for disc or drums.
i would inspect the spindle very closely if you think it's bent.in my experience,the trailing arm will bend badly before the spindle gets bent.the trailing arm is long,and made of stamped steel-it's easy to bend.the spindle is compact,and much beefier than the TA.also keep in mind that the trailing arm can be off the slightest bit-much less than you could ever see-and it will prevent the car from aligning correctly.it'd suck to get everything on,then get the car on the rack and it won't line up
that's why i'd strongly recommend using your stock trailing arms if there's ANY doubt on the trueness of your new TAs.
Chris

JasonGhostz

Well... as of now, I think you can swap the spindle assembly from arm to arm, but, from what I understand, the drum brake spindle won't have caliper mounting points. I still haven't taken off my wheel to confirm this, but that's the way it looked last time I checked.

If you know all the correct measurements, you might be able to fabricate your own caliper mounting plate to replace your drum brake backing plate. This is what AEM/PowerSlot's conversion kit does (I think).

Of course, it's best to use a straight spindle from the donor vehicle. Have you tried spinning the assembly when it was still together? If the outter shaft (the one around which the hub/bearing assembly is seated) is off angle with respect to the caliper plate (rather, its plane), then this might cause the calipers to bind. If you experienced any extreme difficulty in removing the hub/bearing assembly from the spindle, then that's a good sign that the outter shaft is bent.

If the inner shaft is off angle, then the rotor can still spin. Grab some string and a ruler and start measuring as many straight (unobstructed) distances from the spindle nylock nut's center to other parts on the arm (but being where it is, there aren't many). Compare these distances to the other arm. You can actually use this method to pinpoint where the assembly is bent (or rather, where they are bent differently).

Maybe you could get an empty roll of paper towels or toilet paper or gift wrapping and wrap one side on each spindle shaft (after removing everything else). If things don't line up, then you'll know where the problem is.

There is a little bit of clearance where the LCA bolts to the TA. Look through this space to see if the inner shaft looks wrong. I'm starting to think that if/when you remove the nylock nut, you'll find that the pilot hole for the threaded end of the inner shaft has been widened... a good sign. But whether or not this is the case, you should still check your spindle.

Good luck, let us know, and take a lotta pix!
JasonGhostz

... I'll update a side-view pic of the spindle if/when I finally remove it (my 2nd assembly, sigh...).

transpar_nt

bookmarked for near future reference...