JonLeeEK

I have a 2000 Ek. I bought a complete rear disc conversion swap off craigslist that had new everything except the arms. I installed the SI Proportional valve which depending who you talk to is a necessity or not. When I was bleeding the brakes in the rear I was getting only a small dribble of brake fluid with some air coming out of both brakes. Very weak pressure. I bleed them for a while following honda's procedures on bleeding brakes. Front brakes bleed perfect. Do I need to keep bleeding the back brakes? Do I need to change the master cylinder? Let me know if I'm missing any info about my setup?

DjGuamstyles

You seem to be on the right track. Master Cylinder should be the next step in getting enough fluid to the back. If you would've left the older prop valve on, you would've had more fluid going to the back, but it's more proportional now, with the new one, but the M/C can't hold enough fluid for it. Maybe use a vacuum bleeder system? Or just load your brakes as you anticipate a stop, and pump a few times as you slow down, to keep the pressure from dropping, hehe. JK.

JonLeeEK

Can I use either a Si Master cylinder or GSR cylinder? Both the same.... right?

Phoenix_ITR

iTrader: (1)

if you replaced the prop valve, it's likely that the hardlines to the rear brakes are completely dry -- it make take a while to get fluid all the way back to the calipers. to save some time, you can try gravity bleeding the rears. level the car (or have the rear slightly lower than the front), open both rear bleed valves, and simply check on it every once in a while and top of the master cylinder (as with a more conventional bleed, don't let the mc go dry). after you start to get fluid coming out of the rear calipers, close both valves and re-bleed all four corners normally.

driveslow

I would also make sure they are completely bleed. sometimes it seems as if you have been sitting there bleeding the rear for a long time but in all actuallity, you havent done much. make sure that you are trully bleeding them all the way through. Make sure you have one of those 40oz bottles of dot3, this way you are prepared to FULLY bleed the system thourgholy.

JonLeeEK

Thanks I will try this today and let you know how it went. Also I was doing some research about changing the master cylinder to an SI. Do you know if this is necessary?

JonLeeEK

I bought like 6 Dot3 12oz bottles and I only used 1 1/2 bottles. I wasn't getting any more air bubbles in the front brakes so I stopped. The back brakes slowly let fluid out. How long do I leave the valve open when bleeding? I just left it open until I don't see any more air bubbles. Should I leave the valve open longer? I then close the valve and my friend slowly lets the brake up. This is the correct procedure... right? I also have fluid in the cup so air doesn't get in. Do I need to change the master cylinder to an SI cylinder?

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

Si master is 15/16" and a Integra master is 1". Swapping master and booster will make your pedal feel firmer. Swapping to SI/EX front brakes will help also. BTW the SI prop valve and the hatch prop valve have the same part number from Honda.

On my hatch I had the SI front and rear brakes using the stock 13/16 master and booster for a while but pedal was low and spongy all the time. I swapped to a Integra master and the pedal was firmer but it took a LOT of effort to lock the brakes. I then swapped in an Integra booster and the brakes are great!

My recommendation would be swap the m/c and booster to integ and get ex/si front brakes. Don't use integ front brakes as it makes the car way too front biased. (done that also)

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

The proper way to bleed is to have someone press on the pedal with the valve open. Close the valve with the pedal on the floor, release pedal, press pedal, open valve, repeat.

JonLeeEK

Thanks this was the answer what I was needing. Can you tell a night and day difference from stock disc/drum after the swap?

JonLeeEK

I'm doing this right.

speedooo

theres probably dirt in the lines...flush them. put a little hose over the nipple, run the hose to a glass full of brake fluid, open bleeder, pump pedal.

D50boy

That prop valve might be messed up in some way.....?

94EG8

EX/Si front brakes are the same size as integra front brakes. And IIRC only the ITR MC is 1" all other integras are 7/8 or 15/16.

driveslow

This is how you do it correctly. Take it from a ceritified mechanic. Notice how clear the brake fluid is, thats how you will know that your finally getting a good flush. (Technology is gonna make it so much easier to help each other out, such as easy to get to on demand embed links)

http://www.expertvillage.com/video/1...our-brakes.htm

JonLeeEK

It's brand new from honda.

JonLeeEK

I asked Dr Targa and his response:
They're wrong. The Nissin 7CLP13S rear calipers do not require significantly more fluid to operate than the stock drums. You do not need a larger master cylinder for a rear disc conversion. If you were upsizing the front caliper pistons, then you'd have a need for it.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

The rotor size is the same but caliper piston on the integra is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger than the civic ex/si calipers. I have had both on my car and compared them side by side.

The part number for all 98-01 integs are the same. BTW I pulled the 1" master that is in my car out of a 98 integ LS.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

Not really a noticeable difference when changing the rears out. The fronts are what made all the difference.