maxheat

my lower balljoint is starting to crossthread so.... can i just keep going with that? and leave it bolted like that?
will my car be drivable then?

need to know asap because i need a car to drive tomorrow

is it possible to have it bolted crossthreaded? if so im about to go outside and do this now..... its the last thing i need to get done to be able to drive the damn thing... i havent even drove the car yet


btw its a 93 hatch

OpTiX619

replace it.. mine stripped, making a u-turn and f'd up the fender. you can finda new one for like $65. that was a couple years ago tho...

maxheat

i dont have anymore money tho

maxheat

anyone?

maxheat

can anyone help me out with this one?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Very unsafe. I did that & IMEDATLY limped (less than 20mph) to the nearest repair center for balljoint replacment. DON'T DRIVE AROUND LIKE THAT! It actually sounds better to cut the damaged end of the stud off & then tighten the nut down. I still wouldn't drive w/o a cotter pin holding that nut on.

eL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OpTiX619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace it.. mine stripped, making a u-turn and f'd up the fender. you can finda new one for like $65. that was a couple years ago tho...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Funny how the same thing happened to me. While making a U-turn my car just fell to the side. Ball joint was stripped, nut fell off. Used an allen key as a cotter pin to make it home

b18bcivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OpTiX619 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace it.. mine stripped, making a u-turn and f'd up the fender. you can finda new one for like $65. that was a couple years ago tho...</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are $24 from auto zone

maxheat

thank you for answering my question...

FOC-US2K

It happned to me to But what I did was go to sears and get the correct retap die i beleve its a M10 x 1.25 and retap the threads and get a new castle nut from and autoparts store...

maxheat

so its 10mm x 1.25 for sure? cause i went to sears and looked at the craftsman ones and its $3.99 for the die and $8.99 for the tool

and this is gonna be a one time thing so i dont wanna spend $30 on like 4 - 5 die pieces and the tool.

can anyone confirm FOC-US 2K?

maxheat

can some1 confirm?

DelSolDon

just "borrow" the tool (not saying i've ever done it), but buy the tool, keep the receipt, open the package neatly, use the tool, clean it up, repackage, and return to store to get $$$ back. just use cash if you can, then you don't have to wait for the credit to your card...or so i've heard.

maxheat

ahhh the master of scams well its already 8:00 so im just gonna wait till tomorrow thanks for the idea

ablack934doorcivic

measure how much threads you have divide 24.5 x1.25 and that should be how many threads per inch you have count how many threads are on one inch of the bolt and that will tell you if it's 1.25 or not

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

My helms says the Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut is "12 x 1.25 mm".
The Upper Ball Joint Castle Nut is "12 x 1.25 mm".
The Tie Rod Ball Joint Castle Nut is "10 x 1.25 mm".

Hope this got to you in time...

maxheat

thanks for the answers but heres one more question... if im gonna rethread the lower ball joint wouldnt it start turning WITH the rethreading tool?

with my ball joint as the castle nut started to crossthread the balljoint it self would start spinning with the castle nut making it impossible to screw all the way on

cxSHOE

this is what i would do.. get one of these..

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...36861


then go to sears and buy the tap and die . and then put the ball joint back in. this way you can have the ball joint and make a perfect rethread.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure your right. I cant imagine how your gonna hold that thing still while you cut new threads. Good thinking!

Mabey you can just file off the damaged/mushroomed threads on the end, until you can get the nut to go on smooth. Just compare the other side to make sure you don't have to remove any of the threads that the nut will be on once it is torqued down. I would get a new castle nut too, unless your sure it's not damaged.

I have had the worst time with balljoints. I'm only using the rachet method to seperate the lower balljoint from now on.

maxheat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is what i would do.. get one of these..

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...36861


then go to sears and buy the tap and die . and then put the ball joint back in. this way you can have the ball joint and make a perfect rethread.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so your saying to take off the ball joint and rethread it? cause thats gonna take forever and a day to do...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure your right. I cant imagine how your gonna hold that thing still while you cut new threads. Good thinking!

Mabey you can just file off the damaged/mushroomed threads on the end, until you can get the nut to go on smooth. Just compare the other side to make sure you don't have to remove any of the threads that the nut will be on once it is torqued down. I would get a new castle nut too, unless your sure it's not damaged.

I have had the worst time with balljoints. I'm only using the rachet method to seperate the lower balljoint from now on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good thinking ill look to buy a metal filer if the rethreading doesnt work out

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

That tool he is showing you is for seperating the LCA from the balljoint stud. Forget those things, and use the Rachet Method. If you were to remove the whole balljoint, It wouldn't make sense not to replace it (since it's only $20.00).

I've never tried a re-thread, so I can't give any advice.

maxheat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That tool he is showing you is for seperating the LCA from the balljoint stud. Forget those things, and use the Rachet Method. If you were to remove the whole balljoint, It wouldn't make sense not to replace it (since it's only $20.00).

I've never tried a re-thread, so I can't give any advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i already seperated it and now im trying to connect it back but i know if i try to rethread it that its gonna start turning with the die tool

maxheat

ok guys... i bought a new ball joint from autozone for 25 bucks and i rented the ball joint press...

now where do i go from here cause the guy that was telling me how to use it was talking in a different language (so it seemed)

hopefully you guys will be able to tell me how to use this thing... ill get pics in a min

maxheat

ok heres the pic of the balljoint press



can some1 tell me step by step how to use this damn thing?

maxheat

anyone?