V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

like the title says putting rear discs on my ek. would i have to bleed to whole system or just the rear lines?
(my pedal feels just fine, no spongyness or full drop to the floor)

98civdx

I wouldnt think you will need to, however how is your brake fuild? Meaning Color?

spun95

If you are just swaping rotors you wont need to disconect your brake lines, or bleed them unless you are you changing calipers too. Are you doing a rear disc conversion?

98civdx

The first post sounds a lot like he is doing a converson.

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

it looks clean and is yellow/gold

this!

98civicdx i take it that i only need to bleed the rear lines then?

98civdx

Yes, I wouldnt worry about the fronts as you wont be touching the lines.

spun95

Anytime u break the brake line seal u wanna bleed the system from the closest wheel to the master cylander to the farthest from it. So fl, fr, rl, rr.

98civdx

After thinking about it, yes, you are correct. However I have 2 conversions without bleeding the entire system and everything was just fine and continues to be fine.

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

i saw a video saying the furthest firt, so backwards what u said and another where it crissed crossed so i dont know what to believe anymore...

and yeah i was thinking the same thing, since no air is introduced to the front, why touch it

spun95

your right because the proportioning valve doesnt allow air to the back incase the front is the only pads with power. but i still regulate by book so...

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

alright got the e-brake cables put on, still need to tighten it to the lever. got one side 3/4 done. i'll should finish tomorrow and bleed the back. should there be any weirdness then i know what must be done, wish me luck.

p.s. i work outside in the cold so thats why im trying to save time wherever i can since on monday i have to work.

oh and thanks guys for the responses

george323

i actually did my conversion yesterday *SATURDAY* you need to bleed rear AND FRONT. dont wanna take any chances..

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

i would have been done on saturday too but due to running erands missing tools and things going wrong plus short daylight i didnt get to finish but im willing to take my chances since the bad weather is basically here[woke up to 5 in. of snow, right now it gets to below freezing temps and i work outside due to living in apartments] and im trying to cut down on time.

did u do the whole trailing arm swap or just the spindle swap? also how did u remove the ebrake cable? mine was giving me such a hassle, i chopped it haha

Cobb2819

i've always been told it's furthest to closest also

Kmiller

+1 On the furthest to closest, Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front Left.

And your better off just bleeding the whole system, brakes are not something you want to take a chance on when it comes to cars, or just about anything.

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

i have limited time(per day) so im gonna do rear only and if i feel weirdness like spongyness then like i said i know what must be done. i just dont want to be outside for too long cus ITS COLD, WITH SNOW AND BLOWING WIND plus no garage or shed just plain cold hell. 98civicdx said he/she didnt have any problems so im trying it that way first.

VPUPPY

You need to bleed front and rear. If you can't do it, get it towed to a shop. There is need to put your life or he life of other motorists on the line. Do it right the first time.

george323

No i didnt the whole trailing arm swap complete. With band new rotors, and pads, and SS lines
Well, i removed the shifter/e-brake console, OH AND I HAD IT ON A LIFT LOL. so yeah, that made it Awhole lot easier lol. I was a bitch putting everything back. stupid exhaust piping got in the way..

V.MoMO

iTrader: (1)

yeah man that pipe is seriously in the way. i had to bend the heat shield away just to fit my big-o hand in the there. i have the car on jackstands and i found it pretty easy to put the lines back in, maybe just my luck and angle. i found a DA at the junkyard and got my stuff from there. everything was in pretty good shape just the normal rust from not moving and the pads even looked pretty new, still pretty beefy and still had the numbers on the side

and for everyone who says the T50 torx bolts are a pain to get out without an impact gun, well they were pretty easy for me and just a 18" breaker bar in my arsenal

Red_Army

do both. just to be safe. no need to ruin a bumper because you thought it'd be OK. even if your only doing like 20% of the braking in the back.

as for how to bleed it. it can differ by make. but for lil honda's it's fl fr rl rr.