athoughts

Fellas..

I have recently purchaced a 93 civic, 2000 b16a2 droped in there with about 20k miles and im kinda new to this..

Once i build it more and what im debating on (once i save my pennies) is whether to squeeze like 80/85 shots of nos or just turbo it.. I have herd alot of different Pros and Cons about both from outside sources..

Personally i think ill end up just Boosting it but i just want to hear some more opionions,

210hp / 175whp
- HKS full exhaust
- vtec controller
- AEM intake
- Adjustable Cam gears, vaulves, pully
- MSD
- Motor and tranny fully rebuild , technicly about 12k miles on it
- DC 4-2-1 headers
- skunk2 manifold / injectors ( coming next week )

- motor / tuned high compression


thanks
??? ???


Modified by athoughts at 8:39 PM 1/6/2005

sohcvtec1995

Nitrious is fun, but not always there. Turbo is exciting but everyone dose it. and is not very sleeperish (i think thats a word)

civictildeath

lot of each for turbo
vrrrrrrmrrmmmmmmmmpsssssssvrrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmpsss sss but
breaks parts
faster but costly

NOS see my sig below

onelowchef

I first had nitrous then turboed my d. Nitrous was good at first but you only get a few good hits off a bottle not to mention 30 bux to refill it. When its cold out its very hard to get your bottle up to temperature. The good thing about turbo is that its always there when u need it, not to mention alot safer.

00Red_SiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onelowchef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not to mention alot safer. </TD></TR></TABLE>

not true...


To the original poster, how do you have your engine built now? To put down that kind of power to the wheels on a B16, you may have your engine built in such a way that a turbo may not be practical or possible. Nitrous might be the best alternative. Let me know and I will answer your question since deciding between the two usually depends on how you use your car in the first place.

athoughts

00 , b16a2

210hp / 175whp
- HKS full exhaust
- vtec controller
- AEM intake
- Cam gears, vaulves, pully
- MSD
- Motor and tranny fully rebuild , technicly about 12k miles on it
- DC 4-2-1 headers / skunk2 manifold ( coming next week )
- other motor work as well
___

1) I go full motor?
2) dont buy headers or much more and save for turbo?

Also, how much effort and how hard is it gonna be to bring it back to smog legal 2 years from now.. Cause either way, if i go full motor or turbo, that **** is gonna have to come out.

San Diego, CA - smog sucks


Modified by athoughts at 8:25 PM 1/6/2005

ccivic

You should be fine to go ahead and turbo. You would obviously have to get rid of the DC Header, and AEM intake, but the Skunk2 manifold could stay.

Unless, by other motor work you mean high compression pistons, and or cams.

athoughts

yeah its all setup for high compression right now

To go turbo, i would end up having to get rid of alot of stuff, and go low compression? correcT?

civictildeath

yes that would be correct

eL

Going back to stock from being turbo will probably be easier than all motor.

athoughts

yeah thats why im debating on what to do and went here for advice

00Red_SiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by athoughts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah thats why im debating on what to do and went here for advice </TD></TR></TABLE>

You left out the most important part when telling us what was done to your engine and that was the internals. Compression ratio can be a big factor depending on where it's currently at so knowing what pistons you're using would help. The types of rods you are using and if your block uses a block guard or is sleeved.

If you've already gone through all the trouble and expense to go the all motor route which it appears you have, changing that direction now means you just wasted a bunch of money for nothing.

What do you use your car for and what are you mainly looking to get out of the car on a daily basis?

Del Sol SiR

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by athoughts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 00 , b16a2

210hp / 175whp
- HKS full exhaust
- vtec controller
- AEM intake
- Cam gears, vaulves, pully
- MSD
- Motor and tranny fully rebuild , technicly about 12k miles on it
- DC 4-2-1 headers / skunk2 manifold ( coming next week )
- other motor work as well
___

1) I go full motor?
2) dont buy headers or much more and save for turbo?

Also, how much effort and how hard is it gonna be to bring it back to smog legal 2 years from now.. Cause either way, if i go full motor or turbo, that **** is gonna have to come out.

San Diego, CA - smog sucks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

210hp / 175whp, Thats pretty good start for all motor B16A2. What kinda budget are you working with?

DavidT or VajT

Go with the N/A+nitrous set-up. Turbo is too troublesome...N/A it for daily driving and N20 it when dragging.

95b16hatch

NOS, Its alot cheaper, less headache, if you be careful with it

00Red_SiR

That's how I have my car set up and it works perfect for me and my needs. That's why I was asking him what he was looking for, maybe it's different from our recommendations.

turbotime

im goin turbo and i would recommend the same, just get some forged low-comp pistons and forged rods.

And you dont need to pay $$[pay for refills of no2] when you wanna go fast wit a turbo...

murmur9

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you've already gone through all the trouble and expense to go the all motor route which it appears you have, changing that direction now means you just wasted a bunch of money for nothing.


</TD></TR></TABLE>


You don't read the entire post before you hit that reply button do you?


HE DID NOT 'go through the trouble and expense of going the all motor route'....he BOUGHT a car that IS A 1993 HONDA CIVIC WITH A 2000 B16A2 motor in it that has

"210hp / 175whp
- HKS full exhaust
- vtec controller
- AEM intake
- Adjustable Cam gears, vaulves, pully
- MSD
- Motor and tranny fully rebuild , technicly about 12k miles on it
- DC 4-2-1 headers
- skunk2 manifold / injectors ( coming next week )

- motor / tuned high compression "

00Red_SiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by murmur9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


You don't read the entire post before you hit that reply button do you?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

FYI Murmur, I read the original post and understood it. It is late and I had a long day, so EXCUSE me for making an ever so slight error when I posted the small bit about him wasting money. I'll try to never make another minor mistake as long as I live.

Perhaps what I should have said is that it seems like a waste to alter the direction the car has already gone in, but ultimately that will be for him to decide I guess.

stormy

"DC 4-2-1 header"s"

keeping a couple as back-ups ?

you can pretty safely go turbo with your set up without replacing the pistons ect. It's really going to depend on the gas you use and tuning that is done on how long it will last and obviuosly your driving habbits.

When people talk about lower compression for boost i wonder why there are so many rediculously fast s2000's and ITR motored cars all pushing 11.5~.7 on pump gas.

It seems like your more of the gotta do something type which is bad. Without a goal to work towards you'll never be happy anyway. A goal being like running 11's ect

92CivicSIRhb

Hey Donkey |) | ( |&lt; since your head was up your a$$ and you made your call all high compression. And you were thinking turbo. High compression is not good for turbo. I dont like when people say stupid stuff. it makes man kind look dumb.

97VtecIN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92CivicSIRhb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Donkey |) | ( |&lt; since your head was up your a$$ and you made your call all high compression. And you were thinking turbo. High compression is not good for turbo. I dont like when people say stupid stuff. it makes man kind look dumb.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Who are you talking to? If you were talking to the creator of this thread then go back and read it. He clearly states that he knows he will have to go back to low compression for turbo setup.

You just fell victim to your own statement.

Open Mouth, Insert Foot.

As far as my opinion, it all depends on how you want to use the car. If it is a daily driver that is only going to see a few races now and then, maybe on the weekends, go all motor and take NOS.

If you are looking for a daily driver that is going to see a bunch of races, go turbo. Make sure you don't cheap out on anything and buy all quality products and have it tuned so you don't screw anything up. Good luck, looks like you are well on your way already.

Gilbert_619

well for one you might not read the damm post....this is my friend and the owner that decided to build the car was my manager at walmart....he was the one that went all motor and got the work done

soo before you get your panties all bunched up chill and relax....

as we all know high compression is bad for a turbo and it would be a waste of money to go turbo, as his car is already started as a all motor set up..

the car has a stage 2 build up...i cant remember the company he got the work done to it

i know for a fact it has
AEM cam gears
stage 2 cams (cant recall brand)
3 angle valve job
ported and poslished head
AEM fuel rail and pressure regulator

he did meantion the bottom end was done at the same time but i think it was a rebuild rather then a build up...

what i say my friend does would be finish the all motor set up...do the bottom end
and intake mani some injectors and part that would make power that way

the cost to turbo his b16 would cost more then a stock b16 due to his set up
and i guess he could run nos but then again i know you cant run it on the street and to waste that money just to track the car every now and then it not worth it to me

plus remember this is his DD car and had to last him for a while
we dont need a damm full race motor and have it go 30k and need rebuilding

soo now how can list the part that would get him some gains to finish the all motor set up

buckNasty

on my b16a2 swap in my ek coupe i put down 243whp and 171tq
only motor mods were itr springs, itr lma's, itr valves, and ti retainers
that dyno number was only done to 7.5k as i ran my setup with stock injectors
drag mani, 2.5 dp, turbonetics t3/t4 (cant rember ar's)
tuned with a chipped p28 with a stock b16 map with extended rev and a vafc

and turbo is there but not always on as i dont always keep it in boost
so in effect you can boost when u want, and not when u dont.

but yeah find out ur compression numbers and figure out how much cash you have to play with. i use my turbo on my daily driven vehicle in which i drive 88-100 miles a day with a 4 puck clutch and extreme pp. so it all depends on the driver and their preferences.

good luck and this was just my 2 cents

athoughts1

yeah true..

that is what i was thinkin too

I should probably just go all motor for now, until i do have alot of money to redo everything.. which wont be for awhile..