YEAH!

What all would I need for a proper suspension setup, if I wanted to do everything right the first time and not cut any corners?

The car in question has 250k miles so replacing all bushing makes sense.
I plan on going with coilovers but are LCA's and subframe brace a must as well?
The car is a daily driver so not a track car, and I'm not running any crazy offset rims nor do I plan too, so what would I need to do everything "right" not half assed?

BlackCivicEX

iTrader: (1)

-You can buy a full bushing kit or go oem replacements.
-Depending on $, koni/ground control coilover set up. Custom rates. Make you happy. Best of the best.
-If you want to be fancy, get colored LCAs, function 7 etc.. new oem will hold up better.

98civdx

What's the budget?

For coilovers I would reccomend progress, Koni/gc, PIC or AMR. In order of cheapest to most.

What kind of civic is it?

Do you want to run sway bars? D you have them already?

I would take some time replaceing the beat up OEM parts. Ball joints,bushings, tie rods.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Can't tell you much without a budget as stated.

Libertariat

Define "proper."

95dxdrivr

what if budget isn't really an issue? i have a coupe im fixing up and could use a few pointers on suspension components myself. all am am running at the moment is upper front and rear sway bars.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Moton.
Didn't know there were UPPER sway bars.

Moonraker09

upper sway bars? where is the pivot point? on the roof?
must be one hell of a pair of endlinks

98civdx

First start your own thread, secondly, we need a number.

If you tell us budget isn't a problem.

Your going to her Motion. Which cost 2+ times what your car is worth.

YEAH!

have $1000ish to spend
mainly do you need to replace the LCA's or is that just a bling factor replacement, for looks? Would the stock LCA's work fine, if going with full coilovers? Im guessing the subframe brace would be a good idea, for added support, and also new bushings.

98civdx

LCA's are for bling, noithing more.

keep your OEM lca's and just get new bushings for them.

Subframe brace is a bit overkill unless you need it for a larger rear sway bar. ASR for example.

it's going to be difficult to do all that within your budget. It's quite low.

Linked

oem LCAs don't come with mounting points for a rear sway bar, unless its an ek Si or del sol vtec or something

Libertariat

Actually all 96-00 civics can mount swaybars.

You could also get some OEM lcas from an integra in a junkyard for $20-50 or buy them new for $130 from a dealership. They'll be a lot better than anything else for that kind of money.

Or you could save yourself even more money and get a progress rear swaybar that doesn't endlink accommodating lcas.

Linked

ohh i didn't know that!

when buying rear lcas from the dealer would oem bushings already be installed as well?

also is that 130$ for the pair?

Libertariat

Yes, thereabouts. And the bushings are installed already.

Though you could really get a pair from a junkyard for next to nothing.

98civdx

ALL 96-00 are the same, so they have it.

And some 92-95's came with a rear sway bar, not just SI. Also, don't forget that you can use DC lCA's which do come with factory rear sway bars.

Sol-Power

For about 1000 bucks you can get all new energy suspension bushings, and a koni/ground control package.

The koni/ground control package you can pick up from thmotorsports.com for 799.00 shipped, least thats what i payed about 6 mo ago.

if your going that route, (which by the way gives you phenomenal handling and a great ride as well) you'll NEED to get a front AND rear camber kit. You can get a blox racing rear camber kit for about 100 bucks shipped and I suggest skunk 2 for the front camber kit or BLOX. Blox is a little cheaper and still good. This might put you at about $1200-$1300 which is a lil more than your budget i realize, but WELL worth it

D Griff

Do you know the main difference between the two say bars they offer? Are they just the 2 mm in size and adjustability?

98civdx

The don't mount in the "normal" spot. They mount useing brackets to where the LCA's bolt into the subframe. And have some funky (to me) brackets that have a bushing and bolt to the where the lower control arm. Not in the endlink spot. If Im not mistaken.'

They also don't require a subframe brace to run them on 96-00's.

98civdx

Stop spreading false information.

You DO NOT NEED A CAMBER KIT, unless you are stupid low, and/or want to be hellaflush.
Also, blox is junk.

D Griff

They look pretty cool to me, I've never really checked them out before. It does make sense that linking them closer to the outside of the car (to the spring/shock) would be more effective, and once you factor in the cost of a subframe brace and endlinks, it seem like a good price. I've only ever used an LS bar on my Civic though, so I didn't bother with a brace. 11 mm doesn't do a ton though.

D Griff

Also, I agree. Don't waste money on camber kits or Blox products!

98civdx

Not at all. I run a 13mm in mine, with noithing.

I belive progress does make a "brace" but I don't belive it's needed at all.



Libertariat ran it with noithing.

Sol-Power

If he were to get the setup I was talking about, the ground controls and koni yellows,

YES HE WOULD NEED A CAMBER KIT, even lowering the car a half inch changes the angle of camber which= irregular tire wear. Secondly, that setup lowers the car to the point where the inside of your tires will wear like crazy.

I KNOW BECAUSE ITS WHAT I HAVE.

as far as blox being junk, to each his own, but ive never had any issues with blox's camber kits.

There construction is good and durable. But again to each his own, I always say experience is the best teacher and this is what ive learned in my own experience

He asked how to do it correctly, so im telling him how to do it CORRECTLY lol

98civdx

Here we go again.


Correct, lowering the car even a slight amount will change camber, as well as toe. BUT, a slight amount of negative camber is NOT a bad thing, period. Now, i said slight. This is under -3-3.5*. If the toe is set correctly, this will not be bad thing, and there is no reason you shoud not get perfect tire wear.

I do running -2* all around, and there are people running around -3.5* and still getting pefect tire wear. TOE is the issue here, NOT CAMBER, period.

Secondly, Koni/gc is ride height adjustable, any idiot can tell you that. It's ability to slam the car, couldn't mean less.

Again, TOE is what's killing the tires, not camber.

You having the setup is irevalvent, it doesn't mean anything. Just becuase you have camber kits, doesn't mean they are needed. I know this becuase I don't have camber kits and still get perfect tire wear. (this was varified by my self/father, and firestone.)

To each his own my ***. Blox makes poor quality products. I have expereince with them, I know what I am talking about.