Former User

I could not read your diagram. Does it match with the information I posted or is it different?

The wires you tested seem fine. There should also be continuity to body ground at MR connector terminal 2. Verify that.

Next try resoldering the main relay.

If that does not help, then the next step would be to swap in a known good ECU.

sorta2

The colors of the wires are all off it seems like. In the diagram I have the terminals aren't in any order they are just all random. I just went back and used the link that you gave me, way better.

I have a brand new main relay around that I've have forever and just forgot to return, I've swapped it out before and it made no difference.

I'll go back and test terminal 2, by body ground you mean the ground on the thermostat right or another body ground?

OK just tested term 2 to the thermostat ground and it was fine .7

So you are thinking ECU then?

Former User

Use the under dash metal frame for the terminal 2 test. If it's still good, then swap in a known good ECU.

sorta2

Ok I just tested to the metal frame and it was still fine .4 or so.

Other than getting another ECU could it be just a matter of getting something re-soldered in mine? I thought I remembered reading something like that, since the ECU's are getting older there is a piece that wears out and needs to get re-soldered? Is there anything to that or am I just pulling at straws here?

Former User

A bad ECU often looks fine, but you could try removing it to look for any obvious signs of damage, burns, or cracked solder joints.

sorta2

Cool thanks man, I'm on the road to fixing the problem now in a round about way, Got a P72 chipped with neptune on it today, now I'm going to put on this z6 head I have had laying around for a while. Needed a new ECU anyway so I figured I might as well do it I've been thinking about it for a while now.

Thanks for all the help Ron I learned a lot, and that link is valuable.

DJohn916

So basically no answer!!!
I have the same problem!!!...

ElMaq

I have the same problem!

Check engine light stays on for 50 seconds and after this, main relay click and fuel pump primes.

When I wash the car or raining, Civic LX won't start for 30min, 1h, 2h.

I replaced ECU and Main relay but the behavior is the same.

alextech

I know this forum is really old, but what I assumed what happened was that since he decided to buy a chipped ECU, his car was standard. By that means, chipped ECU bypasses barometric sensor and therefore the car will startup just because it is chipped? I have changed my ECU 2 times and still have the same problem. What is the problem?

ElMaq

Hi Friend! My problem was solved. I replaced another bad ECU so I fixed this on electronic shop, changed some capacitors and now runs fine!

mk378

The problem is usually a bad capacitor which delays or prevents the CPU from booting up at all. It wouldn't matter whether chipped or not. Look at all the capacitors for signs of fluid leaking out.

Steve in SC

So I have had a similar problem and have been troubleshooting for around 4 months so far. I finally came to the conclusion that the ecm was bad so I ordered one and replaced it. Everything has been running fine for almost a month until today. I got in the car to start it and there was about a 3-4 second delay before the fuel pump primed after a damp but not very rainy night. I drove it to work and back after the morning break and when I went to head back for the afternoon it would not start. Did not have time to wait so I got an alternate way to get back to work. Came home and got back to troubleshooting and got the 3-4 second delay and it cranked up. It has not been delaying at all since I installed the new ecu. I decided to check the main relay again for any bad solder joints. RE-flowed all of them and it cranked right up. The longer it sits with the key off, the delay seems to extend itself. Are the chances a remanufactured ECU developing the same problem? If so, how could that happen after a month. Also, I must mention that last weekend the car sat for 3 days and had a dead battery when I tried to start it. Nothing was on. Any suggestions are welcome because I am at a loss on this issue.

alextech

I made a thread on this issue, there was 2 pins that I loaded on ecu with harness connected. Now, for my case I used a special tool called LoadPro and when I pressed the load button, you could hear the fuel pump running. That indicates my main relay was OK, and either had my Ecu bad or a wiring issue (least likely). And I replaced it with a remanufactured Ecu and the gas immediatly primed. Why it would go out after a month, I dont know, I hope it has warranty though.

nwaboosted

This video is a trick for worn out relays. Yes solder is a huge issue but the relay west as well. Especially the fuel pump relay.

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