jumai182

Ive tried searching but could not find a straight forward answer.

If I take a b18c1 block and put a b16a2 head on it and keep it as stock as possible then swap it into a ek hatch, will it make more power than a straight complete stock b16a2 in the same car?

one_boosted_si

You'll have more torque from the b18 (1.8L vs. 1.6L), not too sure as far as the HP levels go...don't have much experience when it comes to b18's

daguyfromdachi85

its a gsr block with a b16A3 head that makes a poor man's type r

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one_boosted_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You'll have more torque from the b18 (1.8L vs. 1.6L), not too sure as far as the HP levels go...don't have much experience when it comes to b18's</TD></TR></TABLE>

So don't post.

So I guess it will lower your compression.


It's not "really" a poor mans type R until you use type-r internals in a b16 head on a Gsr shortblock.

Padawan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The b16 head will raise you're compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, a B16 head will result in less compression than the P72.

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually, a B16 head will result in less compression than the P72.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, i've had that backwards.

damn early mornings

EH6TunerDaniel

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daguyfromdachi85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a gsr block with a b16A3 head that makes a poor man's type r</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesnt matter which b16 head you use, they are all pr3 cast.

jumai182

So then it seems like Ill have the torque from a b18 but keep the HP from the b16?

If an ek hatch with a stock poor mans type r were to race an ek hatch with a stock b16a2 who would win?

jumai182

MY plans are to build a poor mans type r, leave it as stock as possible and boost it.

Jakester9500

if you were to race a b16 swapped hatch, you would win. the torque in a b16a2 is pretty weak in comparison.

spork motorsports

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jumai182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MY plans are to build a poor mans type r, leave it as stock as possible and boost it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

any b16a head is fine, the reasoning behind it is a type-r head is a pr3 cast mildly ported by hand at the factory during production,

the type-r block is identical to a b18c1 or gsr b18c

you will have more power than the b16a if done correctly,

how much power can you have if you expletive up a motor???? it is truly a build and not a rush jb lets just thorw it the expletive togehter 350 sb chevy type deals

craftysince86

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jumai182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MY plans are to build a poor mans type r, leave it as stock as possible and boost it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow... i save you the trouble, you can have mine

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jumai182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then it seems like Ill have the torque from a b18 but keep the HP from the b16?

If an ek hatch with a stock poor mans type r were to race an ek hatch with a stock b16a2 who would win?</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends on sooooo many things. the tranny u run for one. driving skills.

but with all that aside. poor mans ftw. great 3rd gear pull on this motor setup

jumai182

So then what would I use to build it to make it reliable? CTR cams and upgrade valvetrain?

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jumai182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then what would I use to build it to make it reliable? CTR cams and upgrade valvetrain?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thought you were leaving it stock, now we're upgrading internals?



Just do aftermarket internals. It's often cheaper than buying the hyped up "Type -R" Bullcrap.

skunk2 cams and name brand valves, springs, pistons and you're good to go.

Though a b18c1 should be good for 280-300 whp on a good tune.

If you build it you could run unstreetable numbers. I'd say keep the internals stock. Do the b16 head swap, and boost it like that. Arp head bolts would be a good idea though.

jumai182

Thats what I wanted to do but there was a comment up there talking about my motor blowing up and something about throwing parts together like a chevy?? Anyway, it would be safe to just bolt the head onto the block, leave everything stock but upgrade the valvetrain and wait for the boost?

ej14life

You should be fine. I had a B16A in my coupe and recently replaced the block with a JDM B18C. I used the head off my B16 to complete the motor. Obviously, replace the head gasket and seals. You'll definitely have more torque. As far as internals, I did replace my valvetrain with type r stuff only cuz I got a killer deal on brand new components. I guess go with the best you can afford.

SkoundrelUSA

If you're def boosting, I'd say just put them together with all stock internals (medium compression with GSR pistons), but get GSR cams, and for the love of God, TUNE IT.

I wouldn't even bother with valves, valvesprings, retainers, unless you really have the need to rev past 8k

jumai182

Badass, thanks alot guys

jumai182

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej14life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should be fine. I had a B16A in my coupe and recently replaced the block with a JDM B18C. I used the head off my B16 to complete the motor. Obviously, replace the head gasket and seals. You'll definitely have more torque. As far as internals, I did replace my valvetrain with type r stuff only cuz I got a killer deal on brand new components. I guess go with the best you can afford. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hows it running for you? Would you ever consider swapping the b16 head for a gsr head?

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jumai182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hows it running for you? Would you ever consider swapping the b16 head for a gsr head?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The difference in my opinion is minimal. People argue the B16 head flows better, but you could always just port a GSR head. a GSR head bumps like .3 more compression than a B16, but you don't need that for boost. But a B16 head has a little more options on intake manifold.

I'd personally just do a B16 head in your case.

And just FYI, I have an all motor Poorman's R its running ok

sauceja

True poor man's type r would consist something like:
block - PR3, P30, P73 usdm or jdm pistons (might as well new rings and bearings)
thats about it.
Head - upgraded valvetrain to handle the roughly 8500 rpm stock limit.

By the time you are done it is a not so poor mans R.

the b18c block with a b16 head and boost is equivelant to a ls-vtec except higher revs and no external oil lines for vtec. more user friendly.

I opted for P30 pistons oem rings bearings (thanks steve at HMO) and also for an actual type r head to get the factory port (local machinists here suck)
supertech valves and valvetrain will be my ticket and skunk 2 either st. 2 or pro 1 or 2 cams.

Shooting for 12:1 or just under compression all-motor. Y21 lsd tranny and debating on the R 4.78 final drive and upgrading to a quaife since my diff is a 12 bolt.

Hope this helps you and that is basically the correct way to go NSPM R. top it off with a fresh red valve cover (thanks steve again) and you have bling.

Good Luck
PS I don't believe you searched this as it is a topic beat to death. and also you want to use the b18c1 head gasket, head studs and timing belt to put this together with.
I recommend golden eagle head studs as I have not had any problems with them. ARP is good to though.

ej14life

I don't know if I'd swap to a GSR head ever. Like the others have said the difference is probably minimal. I bought just the B18 block, so I don't have an extra head. I've driven mine compared to stock GSR's but there a lot of other factors to consider. The GSR's Ive driven are DC2s that were stock. Mines a JDM B18, slightly higher compression with ITR cams and some tuning, so I can't say its a fair comparison. I think even if you went with a full B18C, not a poor mans type r, you'll probably be happy with the added torque. And if you're going to turbo the thing, that'll just sweeten the deal. Just make sure you tune the thing.

jumai182

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good Luck
PS I don't believe you searched this as it is a topic beat to death. and also you want to use the b18c1 head gasket, head studs and timing belt to put this together with.
I recommend golden eagle head studs as I have not had any problems with them. ARP is good to though. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did, like I mentioned before I couldnt find a thread that would give the numbers I needs to compare and consider my swap. They just beat around the bush in terms of build.

I got a very badass deal on my b16a2, so it wouldnt really bother me to switch the block out and play with it alittle.

jumai182

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ej14life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know if I'd swap to a GSR head ever. Like the others have said the difference is probably minimal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So in other words, the swap would perform close to a Gsr? Sorry for nit picking but Im trying to get an accurate comparison.

CE1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jumai182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So in other words, the swap would perform close to a Gsr? Sorry for nit picking but Im trying to get an accurate comparison.</TD></TR></TABLE>

use your brain .....duuuuhhhh.....