A.E Motoring

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well my story is that i'm going to lose it pretty soon, this problem is driving me nuts, i went to the track today and noticed something odd, when i would launch the fuucking check engine light would come on when its wheel hopping just for a instant like a flash, then my car would bog like no other as if i hit a rev limiter early and HARD, would jeak the **** out of me, then it would go away after the wheel hop stopped and it would regain its speed, then i would grab second then wheel hop a bit in that gear then it would do it again, BOOM flashes check engine light then go away then resume to pick up speed again. Can someone please help me out its very frusterating, at the track me and some guys were trying to figure it out, thinking it was a loose ground and the car would just vibrate the **** out of it, guess it wasn't that, i tried another guys computer and still did it, so i ruled those out, and was thinking it was cause i was really low on gas, so after a pass i went to go put some gas, and it still did it so if anyone has any info on how to get rid of it or fix it i would greatly appreciate it.





Modified by SPNFEDEH at 12:53 AM 2/11/2006

mc

check the code! What car do you have?

SkeeRX

sounds almost like you have traction control.. lol

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the code! What car do you have?</TD></TR></TABLE>

u cant retrieve the code, its not a solid cel, plus i was thinking ok it flashed, so it should be in the memory, nope, can't retrieve it

92civichatch1

whats your set up?

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92civichatch1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats your set up? </TD></TR></TABLE>

2001 GSr motor
CTR cams
skunk 2 intake mani
spoon TB
Apexi N1 exhaust

JDMKid71

check the conections to the dizzy.. it sounds like its loosing spark when the engine starts to go back and forth, then when it starts to "studder" it regains conection, make sure all the conections there are good. May not be the problem but an idea.

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMKid71 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the conections to the dizzy.. it sounds like its loosing spark when the engine starts to go back and forth, then when it starts to "studder" it regains conection, make sure all the conections there are good. May not be the problem but an idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i checked everything or everything i could see and get my hands on, everything is plugged in and grounds are good.

please help, i tried it again a lil while ago on my street (yea i know its bad) but it didn't do it, seems to only do it when im on sticker ground (hence the track, more rubber laid down) and i'm going to be boosting really soon, and now its like how can i get good runs if my car is doing this??? please help

www.megameet.org

Do you have hondata. If not maybe it's your knock sensor.

A.E Motoring

iTrader: (1)

no hondata, knock is plugged in

www.megameet.org

well a serious engine jarring could cause a false trip for that sensor.....get some engine mounts or a NRG engine dampiner to help with the wheel hop, and I think you'll be ok.

The engine mounts I use are from http://www.inlinepro.com

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iTrader: (1)

just seems like a sensor problem, or something, i checked grounds, pins on ecu, plugs, seem ok, this has happend to me before, last time it did it, i came home from getting the exhaust shortend for my hatch, then i just decided to gas it on my street, thats when it happend, i tried it some more and still did it, i came home and looked under the hood and saw my fuse box cover off, so i put it back on and then i checked the terminals on the batt, the negative side was really loose then i tried it again and it went away, until last night, but the terminals are still tight

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LIVE 2 DRAG

Check your engine mounts. i still agree with that other guy about the knock sensor. your engine must be aghressivly moving around when you are on grip juice. Hey it sounds mad but it's worth a check

hope you figure it out dude.

moores55

a buddy of mine had this problem and he switched to crome and turned off the knock sensor.

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iTrader: (1)

ill check out the mounts, i know just one of the mounts has a insert but the rest dont and its only on the AC bracket mount, not sure but i can hear when i take off slow, when the motor is moving around, i'll give it a shot. would i be able to run without a knock sensor, when unplug it, it doesn't give me a check light

Punker1234

bump for some help

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punker1234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump for some help </TD></TR></TABLE>

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i know someone has to know, i found one person with the same exact problem but never came to a conclusion


Modified by SPNFEDEH at 8:21 PM 2/12/2006

JDMKid71

when you unplug your knock sensor is should give you some kinda of code... i would think... the MIL should turn on and not go off till you turn the key off...

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iTrader: (1)

wierd ****, i unplugged it and got no code

JDMKid71

weird ****.... you said in the first post that you cant retrive any codes from your ECU... try to do something that WILL throw a code... like unplug the TPS while its running, se if the MIL comes on it seems real weird that it hasent thrown a code for that Knock. if it does throw a code for the TPS being unpluged test the knock sensor. you should be able to conect a DMM up to the pins in the sensor (with the DMM in AC Volts) and lightly LIGHTLY tap on the block with a hammer, if it reads anything its altealst working. the best way is to take it to a shop and have them hook a lab scope up to it to see the waveform its putting out. hope maybe this can help?

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iTrader: (1)

it has thrown a check light before when i unplugged the IACV so i know it does throw a check for reasons, but now i'm thinking why wouldnt it throw it for the knock???