jdmstockeg6

do i need to sand them down if theyre already clean?
to make the primer stick? or no?

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmstockeg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i need to sand them down if theyre already clean?
to make the primer stick? or no?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldn't paint headers, but if you are going to do the valve cover, then no you don't have to sand it down.

you do want to sand it down if there any blemishes. you also want to get all the old paint off first. and let the primer and paint dry before adding more coats.

hondamark35

if you start with a light coat and finish with a "just wet" final coat, you don't need to prime at all.

i would strongly suggest sanding, it's just better that way.

i've done several with great results and never used primer.

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamark35 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you start with a light coat and finish with a "just wet" final coat, you don't need to prime at all.

i would strongly suggest sanding, it's just better that way.

i've done several with great results and never used primer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

though it might have worked for you, i suggest primer. it will help the paint deal with the heat better.

especially if the op plans on painting the headers.

koa

you can paint headers just use high temp rattle can and the bake it in the oven at 350 for like 30 minutes. You can pick it up at oriellys in a variety of colors. for the valve cover start 220 grit and then 320. clean it with a red scotch brite pad then prime spray and clear!

Eran

iTrader: (1)

1) Don't paint your headers with anything less than a ceramic paint that's rated at 1200+ degrees. You'll either need to cure it on the car (running at op temps at idle for a couple hours) or at 650 degrees in an industrial oven.

2) Yes, prime your valve cover. I usually don't sand, just scuff with a red ScotchBrite pad or some 000g steel wool. Use a high-temp engine primer (500 degrees) just to be safe. It provides a good base for any paint and allows you to use just about any paint type and color known to man on top of it.

3) Don't clearcoat your valvecover. I've seen the clear turn yellow and start to haze do to the heat in your engine bay. Even the high-temp clear doesn't do too well.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can paint headers just use high temp rattle can and the bake it in the oven at 350 for like 30 minutes. You can pick it up at oriellys in a variety of colors. for the valve cover start 220 grit and then 320. clean it with a red scotch brite pad then prime spray and clear!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hrm, I was always told NOT to paint headers. Not from the point of view that "it's not possible" - but simply saying that heat releases from your headers and the exhaust temp cools down a bit, painting it restricts the heat and keeps it in there.

EDIT:
I'm not sure if that's true or not, that's just what I've always been told when I was working at a bodyshop.

Libertariat

paint + header + DIY = Bad idea.

doood

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hrm, I was always told NOT to paint headers. Not from the point of view that "it's not possible" - but simply saying that heat releases from your headers and the exhaust temp cools down a bit, painting it restricts the heat and keeps it in there.

EDIT:
I'm not sure if that's true or not, that's just what I've always been told when I was working at a bodyshop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you want to keep the heat in the header. hot gases will move quicker than cool ones. but ceramic coating is a better way of doing this.

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you want to keep the heat in the header. hot gases will move quicker than cool ones. but ceramic coating is a better way of doing this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Few people have the capabilities or the right tools handy to do an effective ceramic coating.

doood

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Few people have the capabilities or the right tools handy to do an effective ceramic coating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh i wasnt recommending a ceramic coating. just throwing the info out there.

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh i wasnt recommending a ceramic coating. just throwing the info out there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

jdmstockeg6

how long does my headers have to be in the oven? and is 650 degrees right? and is this the right degrees or higher or lower?

and same question for the valve cover

Eran

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmstockeg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long does my headers have to be in the oven? and is 650 degrees right? and is this the right degrees or higher or lower?

and same question for the valve cover

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd follow the instructions on the can.

As for valve covers, you don't have to bake them. Just let them dry. Valve covers barely get hot.

jdmstockeg6

a noob question, why does the headers and valve cover need to be baked? lol

Eran

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmstockeg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a noob question, why does the headers and valve cover need to be baked? lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe you should read the thread.

The valve cover doesn't need to be baked. The headers do because the paint is a ceramic coating and needs to be cured after drying so it will hold.

jdmstockeg6

what do you mean by cured? sorry

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doood &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you want to keep the heat in the header. hot gases will move quicker than cool ones. but ceramic coating is a better way of doing this.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahhh, I C, yeah, I knew it was something about the heat, I'd be lying if I said I paid 100% attention to him (but then again I never exactly painted my header either).



Thx for the info.

blue k7

dude just polish your header the paint is going to chip.. this is a great write-up that helped me check it out https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1563439

jdmstockeg6

i already primered it

jdmstockeg6

is it okay to use a paint stripper on my headers?

Libertariat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmstockeg6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it okay to use a paint stripper on my headers?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what could paint stripper possibly hurt other than paint/plastic?

Your header is steel.

2BFI

I used paint stripper on my valve cover coz the red paint was flaking off. Then, I used VHT red wrinkle finish on it.