stealthcivic94

I have a turbo D-Series fully built all w/new parts been running for like a week. Here are some pics.


SO... Here is the problem, New water pump thermostat etc. The car will idle fine. Will sit dead nuts at 190 degrees. But when i go out and drive the car kind of hard and get into boost. It doesn't take much for the car to overheat. When i check the radiator hoses the lower one is cold. Top one is warm. But The car will idle and temp will slowly drop. It will be warmer than 190 but won't over heat. This has me baffled. If the thermostat was stuck then it would overheat at idle. But it doesn't so If anybody has an idea it would be appreciated. I am probably gonna test the thermostat tonight by taking it out and putting it in boiling water. If it is good. Then I am stumped. SO SUGGEST AWAY.

philosofy1

if the thermo was stuck, i can still idle cool. maybe the thermo isn't opening all the way once you're in drive.

hmm...no but really, you said you changed that already so i must ask, did you burb the cooling system?

stealthcivic94

Yes. actually, TWICE!!

stealthcivic94

This is really baffeling me. I do have a stock radiator and cap. Cap seems to be ok. But I am gonna have to upgrade to an aluminum radiator, But if everything was working properly I shouldn't have these problems!!! So I am confused.

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthcivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is really baffeling me. I do have a stock radiator and cap. Cap seems to be ok. But I am gonna have to upgrade to an aluminum radiator, But if everything was working properly I shouldn't have these problems!!! So I am confused. </TD></TR></TABLE>

might think about replacing the cap. also, there are more things that the coolant runs through before coming back to the engine. i have provided a link below so you can search through, i hope it helps.


http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no

http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no

http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no

stealthcivic94

I swaped the cap from a buddy of mines civ. It still did it. But I don't want to put a stiffer cap on it without changing the radiator.
I don't want to blow the radiator apart.
But you are right about all the little bull **** it runs through. The problem is that it lifts the cap and blows the overflow hose off and blows water all over the engine. On top of overheating so the blockage would have to be in the radiator if indead that is what it is.

stealthcivic94

I greatly appreciate the help. Keep it comming b/c that will cause me to second guess myself on some stuff and possibly figure it out

silverboost

check the thermostat, use an oem honda one. My friend had the same problem, the lower hose would stay cold and at idle it was fine.

Nameless Warrior

Definitly sound like a Thermostat problem.

The lower hose being cold mean your coolant isn't transfering from the engine to the radiator. (or vice versa)

I am pretty sure you know this though.

EJgsr

if its overheating in boost it could be your head gasket.

or the intercooler is blocking to much air to the radiator.

1.8turbolsvtec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDMej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its overheating in boost it could be your head gasket.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

second this

egmatt93

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nameless Warrior &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definitly sound like a Thermostat problem.

The lower hose being cold mean your coolant isn't transfering from the engine to the radiator. (or vice versa)

I am pretty sure you know this though.</TD></TR></TABLE>sorry to thread jack i just changed my thermostat and i dotn feel pressure in the bottom coolant line but my temp guage is working fine now. did i do something wrong?

Nameless Warrior

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egmatt93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry to thread jack i just changed my thermostat and i dotn feel pressure in the bottom coolant line but my temp guage is working fine now. did i do something wrong?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Usually, when the bottom hose is cold and the top hose is hot indicate your coolant is not transfering from your engine to the radiator (or vice versa). I am pretty stump as to why your is still cold on the bottom hose even though you changed your thermostat.

How long did you drive the car before you check? Is the thermostat OEM part from Honda? Could it be defected? Alot of reason. I am sorry if I couldn't pinpoint the exact.


BTW: Since you mention your temp gauge if fine. I am assuming your engine doesn't get hot enough for the coolant to leave the engine to go to the radiator to get cool down by the fan. Might be the reason why your bottom hose is still cool.

Hondacivic90ed

quick way to find out if overheating is caused by the thermostat, remove the thermostat alltogether and just drive the car, if it still overheats your problem is elsewhere, ie headgasket, blocked coolant passage, non working radiator fan, or bad radiator. The thermostats usually break in the open position so overheating being caused by them is very rare unless something is blocking their operation. But this shouldn't be a problem if you replace it with new oem.

jz98ctr

try a new T-stat and try a little Redline Water Wetter

eg:R

stronger radiator fan to pull due to intercooler blocking air from radiator.

egmatt93

iunno im guess im too worried i wen tout today and drove it and now i feel pressure and cars runnin great. thanks for all help

biggee

do you still have that plastic air blocker beside your rad??? EGs like to over heat when that is gone. Air is lazy and it will travel the path of least resistance. so make sure your intercooler isnt blocking flow and put something to block the air from the empty spot beside the rad so air actually flows through your rad.

Everyones Hero

You said it's fully built, so I assume you have headstuds. My first guess would be headlifting, but if you have headstuds that would be unlikely. Did you retorque them after a few heat cycles?

bigl1986

not too familiar with turbos, but if you said that the lower radiator hose is cold that means that the thermo is stuck. its probably time for a new one

Rodney

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silverboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check the thermostat, use an oem honda one. My friend had the same problem, the lower hose would stay cold and at idle it was fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed. start simple.

jz98ctr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthcivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a turbo D-Series fully built all w/new parts been running for like a week. Here are some pics.


SO... Here is the problem, New water pump thermostat etc. The car will idle fine. Will sit dead nuts at 190 degrees. But when i go out and drive the car kind of hard and get into boost. It doesn't take much for the car to overheat. When i check the radiator hoses the lower one is cold. Top one is warm. But The car will idle and temp will slowly drop. It will be warmer than 190 but won't over heat. This has me baffled. If the thermostat was stuck then it would overheat at idle. But it doesn't so If anybody has an idea it would be appreciated. I am probably gonna test the thermostat tonight by taking it out and putting it in boiling water. If it is good. Then I am stumped. SO SUGGEST AWAY. </TD></TR></TABLE>

is it just me or am i the only one that picked up on this???
umm by looking at the pik...it seems that you have no dumptube for the wastegate....wassup with that???? if you are overheating under boost your WG is opening and shooting HOT exhaust gasses right onto your radiator. also a couple pics of the way you have your FMIC mounted would be good too. maybe a pic with the bumper on and one with the bumper off.
you can also try to replace the T-stat like a few of these guys have already said but if your T-stat is fine and you're overheating cuz of the lack of a dumptube for your WG or the fact the you have a big dookie front mount intercooler blocking all fresh air that would be on your radiator then those issues need to be addressed 1st.
try this.....take off your front bumper and go beat the **** outa your car...
does she still overheat??????
if not then it's a lack of airflow to the rad and you need to come up with something that will allow your radiator to breathe a little better...like some air scoops or something. i've mentioned it to other people as well....you can go to a junkyard and see if you can find a wrecked corvette and gank off the rear brake cooling ducts (or similar ducting from another vehicle) and see if you can fab them into your front bumper somehow without being seen to feed more fresh air to your radiator. a couple of friends of mine went to a parts store and picked up some washers....yes plain old washers. you loosen up your hood bolts on the hood's hinges (closest to windshield) and you put the washers in between the hood bolts and the hood..this spaces out the windshield side of your hood a little bit and helps the engine breathe a little better too...about a $5 fix. you can also try to get your turbo manifold wrapped... about $50-100 in exhaust wrap from a company like DEI or the like will also help to keep underhood temps down.


Modified by jz98ctr at 12:24 PM 2/2/2007


Modified by jz98ctr at 12:24 PM 2/2/2007

CRX T-Si

Would like to know the tune, what wast the AFR under boost?

robfrmny21

it is either a thermostat or the system is air bound or both.... if your not losing coolant then those are the 2 areas to look into, are the fans coming on??

stealthcivic94

I have head studs and a cometic multi layered steel head gasket. I changed the thermostat the car is running better but overheating when i beat the hell out of it. I am begining to think the intercooler is blocking too much air to the radiator, and the darton sleeves are holding too much heat and the radiator just can't cool it.