Pure Sol

The famous Honda idle surge. I'll list the basics seeing as I'm too pissed to write this all out. Car bounces idle between 750 and 1200, returns to normal idle (750) on the condition the the clutch is feathered and in gear (basically putting a load on the motor)

1. IACV coolant lines disconnected
2. FITV coolant lines disconnected
3. IACV brand new and verified working with voltage test
4. Checked for any vac leaks both visual and with propane


Now keep in mind I've checked all nuts for the TB and intake mani. I've searched H-T for all the answers and came across the typical clean the IACV, screw the FITV down, check for leaks, also came across this link http://www.ef-Honda.com/ben/Badidle.php followed to the T. I've come to terms with it might be a bad ECU but would like to have a few tests to prove this. Cannot get rid of this problem, any intelligent answers out there?

Throwdown

iTrader: (2)

how did you check for vac leaks?

Pure Sol

First visually inspected all the hoses, then used the old propane trick for the gasketed surfaces and while i was at it checked the hoses with that too.

Throwdown

iTrader: (2)

did you try cleaning out the TB? adjusting the idle screw?....what car?

Pure Sol

TB has been cleaned with Q-tips and TB cleaner off the mani. Replaced gasket for TB. Idle has been adjusted as per the guide. Car is a 95 del Sol with B16A3. Does have Hondata IM gasket, the sole purpose for using propane and brake cleaner to check for leaks.

I thought the idle screw was a tad screwy seeing as I can pull the screw out of the TB and the idle will not go above 800 RPM.

Throwdown

iTrader: (2)

did it happen after you worked on it or just start happening? any CEL'S?

Pure Sol

It settled down for a little while after adjusting the idle the previous time but has been an ongoing problem. No CEL's to date

Throwdown

iTrader: (2)

try checking out the FITV?

Pure Sol

FITV is capped off with vac plugs to eliminate it all together.

Jokerluv

hell my vtec-e does it

Pure Sol

k did you fix it?

Jokerluv

well look for an exhast leak mine always does it when i get one and stops when fixed


worth a shot man

delsolck94

i just put a blox intake manifold on my sol (b16a3) did the idle surge. played w/ the idle screw and it went away. hope you fix it that ****. it was gettin on my nerves

Pure Sol

Yeah its a PITA. Im thinkin about capping all hoses off to the IM just to rule out a cracked hose. I have access to a "Skunk2" P72 today so ill switch that over and see what happens.

Sahwn

Are you using a VAFC?

Those things can screw up a car...........take that **** out!

Also, have you replace your PCV or checked to see if it is working?

Any check engine lights? if so, what are the codes for?

Checked the TPS voltage?

Luserkid

When did you start getting this idle? What was the last thing you did before it showed up?

I would take a look at that Hondata gasket and see if theres any cracks you could see. If you tried everything its probably the intake manifold gasket.

Pure Sol

No VAFC, PCV system has been checked and capped off for a brief moment to make sure it wasn't related. Once again no CEL's. TPS voltage is within spec. To be honest I've had this problem come and go with doing nothing to the car. Last thing done that could possibly relate to this problem was a coolant flush. But with the coolant lines off both the FITV and IACV I don't see it being related.

Sahwn

I have heard if you have air bubbles in your coolant system it will cause ruff idle. You might want to try and vent your coolant system of air bubbles.

Pure Sol

I've heard that too, reason for taking the coolant lines off of both the FITV and the IACV. Correct me if im wrong but with those disconnection of those lines whether or not there are bubbles is irrelevant.

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pure Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard that too, reason for taking the coolant lines off of both the FITV and the IACV. Correct me if im wrong but with those disconnection of those lines whether or not there are bubbles is irrelevant.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not always, if your temp sensors are reading off wrong theyll tell the computer something else and the computer would make up for the change (raising idle if need be). Try bleeding your system again and see what that does.

Sahwn

i don't think those lines will solve your problem.

What I have read is that you let your car warm up withe the radiator cap off until the radiator fan comes on.....usually takes like 30min at idle. then you can start milking the radiator hose so bubbles will come out through the radiator.

rebel842001

95 del sol B16A mine did the same thing with the idle going for like 800 up to around 1800 to 2000 and mine come out to be the IAC that is on the bottom of the TB which changes your idle in relation to your coolant temp. if you pull your TB off the the IAC off of the TB and take the IAC apart you might find a lager plastic screw(lack of other terms to call it) that could have either stripped the threads or more than likely it just simply come unscrewed, mine had come unscrewed i screwed it back together and even put a metal plate between the TB ant IAC valve that way it would only use the electric controled IAC valve on the back side of the intake man.

Sahwn

That is the FITV. The fit has a plastic white(when cleaned) screw that backs it self out.

OP: said that is blocked off so with no FIT that shouldn't be the problem.

Pure Sol

Right I've bled the radiator using the bleed screw on the back along with jacking the car up on the front to make the radiator the highest point. I'll try the warming up procedure just to double check. Thanks for helping out to all who contribute.

Sahwn

i know how annoying this **** is.........I have done it all too! lol! It was really my FITV that the screw had backed it self out and the IACV just needed to be cleaned out.