civicsracer

I'm about to do an oil change on my '00 si for the first time. Ive changed my oil on my other car but this one will be the first for the civic. Anyways, can anyone tell me wuts a good brand of oil to use? Or should I just go to the Honda dealership and buy their brand to be safe?

SkoundrelUSA

Everyone's going to give you different answers

Me personally only use Castrol GTX 5w30 and sometimes 10w-30. Others will probably say to get Mobil 1, but I'm not a baller

e jay one

dude its just oil and its just a stock honda motor. you dont need anything special unless you have more money than you know what to do with then go ahead and waste it. me i use castrol 10 30.

md88hfcrx

mobil1 full synthetic FTW!

bmoua

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md88hfcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mobil1 full synthetic FTW!</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep...even though i have a y8 i still use mobil 1 5w30 synthetic...if not mobil you can always stick with castrol 5w30...

Dwight Schrute

advance auto brand 5w30 1.28qt ftw

turboxsi

I use mobil 1 10w30 for the summer as it never gets below 50 here (10w30 which is a high oil weight will better protect in high heat conditions as recommended by helms).

And I use Mobil 1 5w30 for winter time as it gets below 20 degrees often here (once again 5w30 recommended by helms for times when temp could get below 20 degrees and oil thickens then colder it gets, so starting with lower weight oil helps protect in those condition).

Either way i have just followed the helms guide on what type of oil weight to use. But as far as brand i have always stuck with mobil 1 ($5.25/qt). And if you have the money get amsoil (9.49/qt). I work at a car parts place so those are apporixmate prices.

Steven.

all oil is oil jus u paying for brand name, i bought 1.99 oil at pep boys keep ur money its going to be burnt up or used up regardless of what u buy

chrisw85

Synthetic oil has many advantages over conventional dino oil. It has more anti-wear additives so you can go longer between changes, it is more shear stable and will stay in viscosity better than its dino counterpart, it also flows better (better pour points) then dino given the same viscosity and cSt.

The best way to tell if an oil is working best for your engine, driving conditions, change interval, and climate, is to get a UOA--used oil analysis done. This will give you a breakdown of everythign about the oil, from all its insoluables (the more insoluable the less efficient your air filtering is), flashpoint (which corresponds with fuel dilution), TBN--total base number; the amount of remaining additives, if your oil sheared (came out of viscosity) etc.

With that being said, I am currently running Mobil 1 EP (extended performance) 10w30 in my 94 civic and am aiming for a 10k+ mi oil change interval. My last OCI was done with Mobil Clean7500 5w30 for roughly 10k miles, i added about 1.5 quarts of makeup oil throughout that OCI; the oil still had life in it.

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everyone's going to give you different answers</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, oil opinions are like ******** Most people just use a brand they've had good luck with in the past, or have read raving testimonials about over the internet Dealerships typically use whichever local bulk oil brand is cheapest for in-house oil changes. Generally, all name brand oil is perfectly fine. Synthetics will allow longer change intervals without degrading, and will provide better cold-start protection and flow (not really a concern in CA) than non-synthetics, but are significantly more expensive to purchase initially.

If you have forced induction, or your engine sees excessive oil temps (260*F+) for long periods such as in HPDEs, you should really use a full synthetic. If your car is a mild naturally aspirated daily driver, dino oil is fine.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Me personally only use Castrol GTX 5w30 and sometimes 10w-30. Others will probably say to get Mobil 1, but I'm not a baller</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here. I used Castrol GTX 5W30 with Toyo Roki filters the entire time I had my EM1, and changed it regularly every 4500 miles (which was probably overkill even for dino oil, but I never had an oil analysis done for that car to find out). When I sold the car with 80,000 miles, it didn't consume a single drop of oil over the change interval, and the cylinder head internals were sparkling clean.

To the original poster, you will need 4.2 quarts for a B16A oil and filter change. Remember to use a new crush washer for the drain plug every time, and only torque the drain plug down to 31 lb-ft - never overtighten.


Modified by Targa250R at 6:47 PM 10/26/2006

ridin98civic

mobil 1, once again just my opinion, but previous owner used dino-bone oil, and the head internals were black and nasty, i started using mobil 1 when i got it, and it sparkles in there now.

vlc92189

i use mobil 1 10w 30 syntec blend

spoonracer84eg

I go with the honda brand motor oil. Its 5w 30 for the b16 so as long as you get that your good.

Cobra Jordan

Almost any 5w30 would work

I use Castrol 5w30

B16 IIgen

for an si, sense its got the stock b-16 i would use mobil 1 thats what i've used on all my civics, its alittle spendy but worth it in the long run...

Tzer

I just did my first change since I bought the car. I went with what the previous owner used for the last 60,000 miles or more.

Valvoline durablend. It's a Synthetic Blend. But I did change from the Fram filter he used (Orange) to a WIX filter. This is on a boosted D16Y8 car as well.

I've read to many threads on how the fram filters have gone down hill in the recent few years as well as hearing from my buddy who works at a Honda (Bike Shop) who said he had a filter rep. (WIX maybe) cut their filter in half and a fram right in front of him and showed him the difference between the two.

Like most are saying. Oil is Oil. keep it changed and you'll be fine :D

chrisw85

WIX filters are great. Paying retail for them is not. I get them at fleet prices. WIX/Napa Gold ftw!

trystalina

I have a '97 Civic with over 235K! I swear by full synthetic. More expensive, but worth it. All of my past cars have been kept over 200K on full synthetic.

[Eg.6]LiLbOy916

ROYAL PURPLE =] 7 bucks a Quart

jdmjaser

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [Eg.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LiLbOy916]ROYAL PURPLE =] 7 bucks a Quart </TD></TR></TABLE>


thats what i use...10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter..and its 5.50 to 6.99

Rev2Eight

FOr oil i just use whatevers cheap. Walmart usually has good deals on Valvoline so i get that. Im more concerned with the filter really, so i spend the extra on the mobil filter.

[Eg.6]LiLbOy916

Cheap oil ... geesh treat your car right lol .. and jdmjaser nice av &gt;&lt;

Thizzed Out

oil mixed with some dirt mixed in FTW

Manic!

Any name brand oil should be good. That super cheap stuff form Wallmart is only certified for cars made in the 40’s like the model A. If you don’t believe take a look at the certs on the back of the oil.

bmoua

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WIX filters are great. Paying retail for them is not. I get them at fleet prices. WIX/Napa Gold ftw!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've had the napa gold before...just once though...usually use fram but tried napa gold out...no difference, though the napa gold looked like it would do the filtering job alot better. That thing looks bad *** haha, thats how every oil filter should look like... pricey $7 bucks compared to the $3-4 fram...