oil change
07-05-2005, 09:51 AM
#2
Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: running nines, but on two wheels
Posts: 2,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: oil change (EKcivic1230)
Engine oil starts to turn black shortly after you change your oil, but just gets worse as you run your car. It doesn't coat as well as it gets old.
Also, synthetic oils are made to coat better as well, not necessarily last longer.
-Shane
Also, synthetic oils are made to coat better as well, not necessarily last longer.
-Shane
07-06-2005, 06:54 AM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (93ejay1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ejay1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5k? damn your suppose to change it every 3k</TD></TR></TABLE>
I change mine every 7500miles
I change mine every 7500miles
Trending Topics
07-06-2005, 07:03 AM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hudson
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (93ejay1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ejay1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5k? damn your suppose to change it every 3k</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the biggest crock, and is supported by lube places and dealers to make money on service appointments. Check your manual, mine says 5000 for normal duty and 7500 for severe duty.
That's the biggest crock, and is supported by lube places and dealers to make money on service appointments. Check your manual, mine says 5000 for normal duty and 7500 for severe duty.
07-06-2005, 07:05 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: My kind of town, USA
Posts: 3,448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the biggest crock, and is supported by lube places and dealers to make money on service appointments. Check your manual, mine says 5000 for normal duty and 7500 for severe duty.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wouldn't severe duty be sooner than normal?
wouldn't severe duty be sooner than normal?
07-06-2005, 07:26 AM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hudson
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (integraXTC)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integraXTC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wouldn't severe duty be sooner than normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, sorry... I misstyped.
wouldn't severe duty be sooner than normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, sorry... I misstyped.
07-06-2005, 07:27 AM
#11
Imperious: Mod of Valor
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 12,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (93ejay1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ejay1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5k? damn your suppose to change it every 3k</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that's what I do, just to be safe. And besides, I like doing it.
Yeah, that's what I do, just to be safe. And besides, I like doing it.
07-06-2005, 07:35 AM
#12
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Ewa Beach, Honolulu, USA
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
same here, the longest i run my oil is almost 4k miles. I use mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30 on my b16. Just FYI. I have a b16 head that is all F&*Cked up. It has sludge all over it. Rocker arms look like they were spray painted black at point blank. That was from TORCO racing oil. Thats all i ran in there and thats what happened.
07-06-2005, 07:48 AM
#14
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Biking and Beer, CT
Posts: 3,764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Go ahead and put the synthetic in there and you will have oil coming out of every hole and every leak you never knew you had. Synthetic has smaller particle which make it better for lubing properties. But if you have an old motor there is no reason to run that in it because you'll prolly **** most of it out through small leaks in the seal you never knew you had. Get mobil regular oil and change it every 4000 miles, if your hard on the car check the spark plugs every oil change and do the oil at 3000.
07-06-2005, 07:57 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hudson
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (DA_Black_Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_Black_Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go ahead and put the synthetic in there and you will have oil coming out of every hole and every leak you never knew you had. Synthetic has smaller particle which make it better for lubing properties.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not true at all. The synthetics that you buy at the parts store in this country (with the exception of German Castrol) are Group III synthetics; meaning they are made from refined dino oil base stocks to remove the impurities.
There used to be leaking problems with synthetics from older cars, because their seals were incompatible. They also have additives that clean much better, and would remove sludge that was sealing the engine (only a problem on high milage engines).
Either way, if you're leaking because of switching, you'll be leaking eventually anyway.
That's not true at all. The synthetics that you buy at the parts store in this country (with the exception of German Castrol) are Group III synthetics; meaning they are made from refined dino oil base stocks to remove the impurities.
There used to be leaking problems with synthetics from older cars, because their seals were incompatible. They also have additives that clean much better, and would remove sludge that was sealing the engine (only a problem on high milage engines).
Either way, if you're leaking because of switching, you'll be leaking eventually anyway.
07-06-2005, 10:13 AM
#17
Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: running nines, but on two wheels
Posts: 2,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_Black_Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go ahead and put the synthetic in there and you will have oil coming out of every hole and every leak you never knew you had. Synthetic has smaller particle which make it better for lubing properties. But if you have an old motor there is no reason to run that in it because you'll prolly **** most of it out through small leaks in the seal you never knew you had. Get mobil regular oil and change it every 4000 miles, if your hard on the car check the spark plugs every oil change and do the oil at 3000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to agree with him in part. Not necessarily every motor will leak, but my friend said he had this problem on his ZX2, and that he drained it, put part synthetic in for a few months, then switched back to full synthetic and his motor was fine.
-Shane
I have to agree with him in part. Not necessarily every motor will leak, but my friend said he had this problem on his ZX2, and that he drained it, put part synthetic in for a few months, then switched back to full synthetic and his motor was fine.
-Shane
07-06-2005, 10:27 AM
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hudson
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (DA_Black_Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_Black_Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, you seem like you know oil better so i'll agree with you </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was in the auto industry for a while, so I had a lot of research on hand. I have my motor oil tested regularly to monitor the health of my engine, as well as how long I can extend my intervals. 5000 miles on dino or synthetic with weekly track time always produces good numbers; and I'm going to be testing to see how much longer I can go with the next few oil analysis that I do. Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com if you want to know more; and blackstone laboratories for oil analysis.
I was in the auto industry for a while, so I had a lot of research on hand. I have my motor oil tested regularly to monitor the health of my engine, as well as how long I can extend my intervals. 5000 miles on dino or synthetic with weekly track time always produces good numbers; and I'm going to be testing to see how much longer I can go with the next few oil analysis that I do. Check out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com if you want to know more; and blackstone laboratories for oil analysis.
07-06-2005, 06:59 PM
#21
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Francisco, CA, USA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay you guys convinced me to get an oil change now. So which so i get? I'm currently using the Castrol full synthetic. I heard Mobil one full synthetic is better. Any suggestions?
07-06-2005, 07:06 PM
#22
Re: (EKcivic1230)
i use mobil 1, i read that castrol full synthetic lies and actually isnt full synthetic.
btw u can buy oil that can last 10k miles and work fine but it doesnt do any good because filters cant last that long. just remember that
btw u can buy oil that can last 10k miles and work fine but it doesnt do any good because filters cant last that long. just remember that
07-06-2005, 07:10 PM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Daphne, AL
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My d16 has 2003xxx miles on it. Turbo in process.
I change it every 3000 miles because
A. I get better peace of mind know there fresh oul in it.
B. Its pretty black after 3k.
C. I like working on my car.
I change it every 3000 miles because
A. I get better peace of mind know there fresh oul in it.
B. Its pretty black after 3k.
C. I like working on my car.
07-06-2005, 07:14 PM
#24
Re: (1995Ex_Sedan)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1995Ex_Sedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My d16 has 2003xxx miles on it. Turbo in process.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
your gonna turbo with 2 million miles
</TD></TR></TABLE>
your gonna turbo with 2 million miles
07-07-2005, 05:47 AM
#25
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: The Hudson
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (93ejay1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93ejay1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use mobil 1, i read that castrol full synthetic lies and actually isnt full synthetic.
btw u can buy oil that can last 10k miles and work fine but it doesnt do any good because filters cant last that long. just remember that </TD></TR></TABLE>
Neither Castrol nor Mobil 1 are a true full synthetic, with the exception of 'German' Castrol. They are both Group III oil, which means that some of the components are refined dino stock, and not synthetic.
The German Gastrol is imported, and for an oil in Germany to be labled as synthetic, it must be a full synthetic Group IV oil. It is only available in 0W-30 weight, and the lable is red, with a 'Made in Germany' mark on the back. The one with the yellow lable is from the US and is the regular Group III 'synthetic'.
btw u can buy oil that can last 10k miles and work fine but it doesnt do any good because filters cant last that long. just remember that
</TD></TR></TABLE>Neither Castrol nor Mobil 1 are a true full synthetic, with the exception of 'German' Castrol. They are both Group III oil, which means that some of the components are refined dino stock, and not synthetic.
The German Gastrol is imported, and for an oil in Germany to be labled as synthetic, it must be a full synthetic Group IV oil. It is only available in 0W-30 weight, and the lable is red, with a 'Made in Germany' mark on the back. The one with the yellow lable is from the US and is the regular Group III 'synthetic'.