OBD2 code reader
My car's had some bogging issues lately so I went to Autozone to see if they could pick up any codes. The reader wouldn't link up to my ecu. I'm running a B16B with the jdm pct ecu, and i'm now aware that a usdm scanner is not compatible with jdm ecus.
Is there a scanner out there that will work for this ecu? How else will i get the codes?
Is there a scanner out there that will work for this ecu? How else will i get the codes?
no scanner will work, at least not the common ones.
JDM ECUs run very similar software in them as the OBD1 ECUs we have here. So some higher end scanners will work, but it will likely not tell you what you're looking for.
Jump the service jumper and pull any codes via blinking CEL light. (check the sticky post on how to do it)
if there are no codes, reset the ECU via unplugging it, or pulling the backup fuse in the under hood fuse box... and see what happens.
still a problem you will have to diag further.
JDM ECUs run very similar software in them as the OBD1 ECUs we have here. So some higher end scanners will work, but it will likely not tell you what you're looking for.
Jump the service jumper and pull any codes via blinking CEL light. (check the sticky post on how to do it)
if there are no codes, reset the ECU via unplugging it, or pulling the backup fuse in the under hood fuse box... and see what happens.
still a problem you will have to diag further.
Are you referring to a blinking light on the ecu? That's actually the first thing I checked, because I used to do that with my crx and count the flashes. I did not see any kind of light on the ecu. Is there another way to do this? I'll search more later when I have time. Thanks for the reply
It shows 2 long flashes, then 2 short. According to the link above it's #22 vtec pressure valve? My first guess was o2 sensor. I didn't think this would cause it to bog throughout the entire rpm range.
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What ECU are you running? Can you get the part number off the ECU? If it's truly a JDM ecu, it wouldn't look for the VTEC pressure sensor.
Here's the fix for OBD1 ecus..
http://www.phearable.net/tech/...s.gif
Here's the fix for OBD1 ecus..
http://www.phearable.net/tech/...s.gif
http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/w...8.jpg
Here's the wiring diagram for what should be the OBD2A JDM ecu you are running. You'd have to use a scotch lock and tap the VTPS coming out of the ECU into the VTS line. The VTEC solenoid will output the desired signal the ECU is looking for and you're check engine light will go away.
Here's the wiring diagram for what should be the OBD2A JDM ecu you are running. You'd have to use a scotch lock and tap the VTPS coming out of the ECU into the VTS line. The VTEC solenoid will output the desired signal the ECU is looking for and you're check engine light will go away.
Cool, thanks for the link! Meanwhile, I looked over a few things & noticed there was a pinhold leak on one of my hoses on the IM, so I fixed that, then checked my spark plugs which I just replaced. I noticed they were not torqued down nearly enough.
After doing these things the car runs great & feels much better. The sputtering has stopped for the time being. It's cooled off quite a bit & it usually doesn't act up on cool/ humidless days so maybe it's just that. We'll see tomorrow after it's been sitting in the heat all day.
Lastly, the reason I thought it was a bad o2 sensor in the first place was because my a/f gauge is stuck on rich when it usually wonders from stoich to rich. I know that an air/ fuel gauge with a narrowband o2 sensor is worthles (came with the car), just wondering if there is ANY accuracy whatsoever or if I should disregard the gauge entirely.
Thanks for the replies so far, they've been very helpful.
After doing these things the car runs great & feels much better. The sputtering has stopped for the time being. It's cooled off quite a bit & it usually doesn't act up on cool/ humidless days so maybe it's just that. We'll see tomorrow after it's been sitting in the heat all day.
Lastly, the reason I thought it was a bad o2 sensor in the first place was because my a/f gauge is stuck on rich when it usually wonders from stoich to rich. I know that an air/ fuel gauge with a narrowband o2 sensor is worthles (came with the car), just wondering if there is ANY accuracy whatsoever or if I should disregard the gauge entirely.
Thanks for the replies so far, they've been very helpful.
read off the rest of the numbers on the ECU. specifically the ones after the PCT.
You may have an EDM ECU, which is slightly different than the JDM ECUs.
If you have an EDM ECU you may not have CEL22, you may have CEL 20 and CEL 2.
if you have a camera take a vid of the CEL flashing.
You may have an EDM ECU, which is slightly different than the JDM ECUs.
If you have an EDM ECU you may not have CEL22, you may have CEL 20 and CEL 2.
if you have a camera take a vid of the CEL flashing.
I will get a video of it tomorrow. In the meantime, the ecu says PCT-003. If you need the other numbers before that i'll have to get them tomorrow as well.
I searched for an EDM version of this ecu but found nothing.
Modified by schuetts at 6:15 PM 8/12/2008
I searched for an EDM version of this ecu but found nothing.
Modified by schuetts at 6:15 PM 8/12/2008
Here's a video...code 22 correct? ecu is a JDM PCT-003.
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=3501e86&s=4
Modified by schuetts at 4:59 PM 8/14/2008
Modified by schuetts at 4:59 PM 8/14/2008
http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=3501e86&s=4
Modified by schuetts at 4:59 PM 8/14/2008
Modified by schuetts at 4:59 PM 8/14/2008
wish you would have let it repeat... and not start the car when you check for codes....
But it looks like 22 from here.
Which is odd since JDM cars do not have the VTEC oil pressure switch.
as much as I hate this thought. pull the cover from the ECU and make sure that the connector says PCT-003 and not something else.
If there's no label... read the MCU code on the larger square chip on the right side of the board. (three digit number, 858 or 359 or something like that)
I've got an odd feeling about this ECU...
But it looks like 22 from here.
Which is odd since JDM cars do not have the VTEC oil pressure switch.
as much as I hate this thought. pull the cover from the ECU and make sure that the connector says PCT-003 and not something else.
If there's no label... read the MCU code on the larger square chip on the right side of the board. (three digit number, 858 or 359 or something like that)
I've got an odd feeling about this ECU...
Was I supposed to just have the key to the "on" position rather than starting it? I'll try it that way if it might make a difference. It is odd if that's the code. It's a complete swap from Hmotors so I really doubt the ecu's been messed with, but it's worth checking out. I'll get at this stuff tomorrow afternoon hopefully. In the meantime the car has been running great with no bogging issues after fixing the vacuum leak. That code is still bothering me, though.
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