No spark and no ECU codes!
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No spark and no ECU codes!
Sorry if this is a dumb *** question, but this has got me stumped. My sister-in-laws car, a '92 Civic 1.5L has been sitting in a garage for close to 2 years. About a month ago, I was asked to help get it running. I jumped the old battery, and it hesitantly started and we ran it for about 15 minutes. The battery was trashed, so we pulled it and bought a new one and installed it about a month later. Again, it started hesitantly after a couple of cranks, then ran fine. GREAT, I thought. I shut it off, put the tools away, then went to start it again. Crank, crank, crank, but it wouldn't start. Bottom line, I found there is no spark anymore. I pulled a plug, grounded it and nothing. Cheaped my way into a new rotor, cap and plugs but still nothing. ECU codes are non-existant--CEL just stays on steady. I thought maybe the ignitor, but shouldn't that generate a 15 code? I know it's something stupid, but I'm at a loss!
#2
Re: No spark and no ECU codes! (gratefulrog)
if you have the helms manual for that car you could try testing the ignition coil. You need a multi meter to do this so you can check the resistance of the primary and secondary terminals.
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Re: No spark and no ECU codes! (gratefulrog)
A bad igniter doesn't always give a cel code. I just put a coil in my car and I didn't have any codes. Had driven for an hour to get home, parked it, 15 min later cranked it drove 30 yards and it died. coil went out without hesitation. check them both, one of them is bed for sure.
#7
Re: No spark and no ECU codes! (gratefulrog)
here's how to check your coil:
1 remove the distributor cap
2 remove the two screws that retain the black/yellw wire(+) and the white/blue wire(-) Located below the coil
3 use a multi meter set to read ohms and measure the resistance between the primary terminals(A + B) on the coil(where the wires were attached)
4 Measure the resistance between the secondary winding terminal(this is the terminal with the spring sticking out of it in the middle of the coil) and terminal A(+)
it's important that the wires are not attached to the coil when you measure it or you'll get a false reading.
your first reading should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms
your second reading should be between 12.8-19.8 ohms
if either of these aren't within spec, you need to replace your coil.
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
1 remove the distributor cap
2 remove the two screws that retain the black/yellw wire(+) and the white/blue wire(-) Located below the coil
3 use a multi meter set to read ohms and measure the resistance between the primary terminals(A + B) on the coil(where the wires were attached)
4 Measure the resistance between the secondary winding terminal(this is the terminal with the spring sticking out of it in the middle of the coil) and terminal A(+)
it's important that the wires are not attached to the coil when you measure it or you'll get a false reading.
your first reading should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms
your second reading should be between 12.8-19.8 ohms
if either of these aren't within spec, you need to replace your coil.
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
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Re: No spark and no ECU codes! (coquitlamEG)
I replaced the ignition coil like you suggested, turned the key, and it started!!
Another HONDA saved from the scrap heap!
Thanks for all of help with this.
Another HONDA saved from the scrap heap!
Thanks for all of help with this.
#9
Re: No spark and no ECU codes! (gratefulrog)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gratefulrog »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another HONDA saved from the scrap heap! </TD></TR></TABLE>
That brings a tear to my eye
That brings a tear to my eye
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