97_turbocivic

like the header says i have to my ecu. no spark, no fuel and no power to the ecu but i do have power for my windows and what not. ran a test light around and im not getting any power from the group of wires that come outa the fire wall right by the brake booster, but it did have good ground.

19slocivic97

make sure you check the main fuse under hood

97_turbocivic

its good

Osiris94EJ

got to be a loose connection somewhere.

97_turbocivic

thats what i was thinking to but i cant find one. i was wondering if there was a fuse under the dash that would control something like that

FaceTuned

iTrader: (4)

i had that problem with a 99-00 hatch had no power to the distributor or ecu i wasnt gonna waste my time check'n **** just change the underdash harness if its 96-00 its real easy.
good luck

Osiris94EJ

Ceck the terminals under hood that the fuse plugs into. Corrosion is the enemy.

19slocivic97

check the electrical side of the ignition switch, i've seen some probs with them, check to see if you have power on the blk/yel wire while in the on pos. and also blk/wht. both should be hot in on pos......good luck

Osiris94EJ

Possibly, Its worth checkin.

97_turbocivic

hey 19slocivic97 do u know with one it is. i juss recently replayed it (the ignition switch). there where 2 plug was it the larger one or the smaller one.

i also have a really badly burnt piece in my ecu. juss wondering if that did anything . its right by where vtec stuff is
sorry if the photos are huge.

19slocivic97

sorry took so long to get back, i'll have to look in service manual tomorrow, and i'll get back to you, ps your ecu looks screwed, they may explain some of the problem

slowslow

try a friends ecu.

19slocivic97

power is supplied to the ecu via pin c10 which is wht/blu fused from #47 back up fuse, also pins a11 a24 yel/blk from main pgmfi relay which is fuse 44, ground supply is pins a9 a22 a10 a23 which are common to ground G101 which is located at t-stat housing, wires that are switched hot at the ingnition switch is yel, WHT/BLK, and BLK/YEL, they should be a large gauge wires. good luck, be carefull if you try someone's ecu just in case you have ground problem its possible to burn an aother ecu if supply searches for ground path and finds it via a circuit path in ecu

97_turbocivic

ok i checked my ignition switch wires and i have power to them all the white yel/black and white/black. i did try a friends ecu and nothing. the main relay is new, but is there any more relays or fuses that could be it.

97_turbocivic

tonight i jumped the fuel pump and the injectors and put a new ecu in and it ran (shitty). so now im thinking that i shorted the main relay. it was the diode that caused all this. but with the new ecu in it still wont turn my fuel pump on, and the main relay checked ok.

19slocivic97

check to see if ecm is grounding wire A16 grn/yel, thats the control side of the main relay, also check fuse 13 under dash, thats the power supply for the pump, fuse 44 under hood is power supply for injectors. what diod are you talking about??, good luck

Relic1

the part in the ECU is popped when you have your IAT and EVAP purge connectors switched.
If you have not blown your IAT, make sure they are connected correctly and move on. that part will not stop your car from running, nor throw a CEL for anything.

If your wiring is fine, it's possible that the guy you bought the converted ECU from didn't bother to fix it...

Is your car an auto-manual swap?
tripple check all your fuses, under dash and under hood.