Syndacate

Which bushings do I need to replace to make thing feel right again - they're already shot to ****, at least the one up front is:



I'm pretty sure I need:
14
16
17
9 x2

Is that all I'd need for an OEM bushing "kit" like prothane or energey suspension sells? I don't think they come with 19, do they?

////pple from cali, texas, florida, etc. woudln't understand the following ////

I replaced the transmission like 3 months ago - now when I did it - everything came out easy - no heads broke off, etc. but I was wondering still if I should replace the bolts where the bushings go while I'm down there - no intention of replacing the bitch clip - but you know what salt does to undercarriages up here in NY if you live in the NE.

28
19

24
21

25x2

5????

I think the thrust washers come with the shifter (B&M dual bend ST shifter).

Anyways, I just need help putting together the bushing list - I suppose if the bolts and everything came out fine a few months ago - there shouldn't be a problem this time - then again, I didn't touch the ones by the shifter.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Setsuna F Seiei

my energy kit came with everything minus 17 i think, i`m not sure. you pretty much have most if not everything listed.

SkoundrelUSA

You don't really need to replace the metal collars in my opinion. The most important one from my experience is #14. I first changed just #16 b/c I didn't have a press for #14 and it didnt do anything. But then put in #14 and it felt like I was driving a brand new trans.

That bracket (17) is also not really necessary unless your current one is bent or something

gsxr1k05

the ES kit you dont have to press #14. and last i checked the OEM bushing is two piece as well.. syndicate, i know your a fan of OEM, but this is one item that is a benefit from the ES upgrade.

Setsuna F Seiei

14 and 16 are the only bushings you get if you buy the shifter-only kit from energy

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ES kit you dont have to press #14. and last i checked the OEM bushing is two piece as well.. syndicate, i know your a fan of OEM, but this is one item that is a benefit from the ES upgrade.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't that only for SOHC? I'm pretty sure the B-series bushings are one piece. You don't necessarily need a press but its a little tough without one.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeA$$Pinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">14 and 16 are the only bushings you get if you buy the shifter-only kit from energy </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I thought, thanks.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Isn't that only for SOHC? I'm pretty sure the B-series bushings are one piece. You don't necessarily need a press but its a little tough without one.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ES kit you dont have to press #14. and last i checked the OEM bushing is two piece as well.. syndicate, i know your a fan of OEM, but this is one item that is a benefit from the ES upgrade.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

A) You don't have to press it with anything except your finger.
B) Last you checked was wrong - the OEM bushing is 1 piece - I changed mine with one in better condition - one piece (14).

It's not that I'm a fan of OEM, it's I'm a fan of paying the cheapest price - now ES bushing don't provide anything further than a cute name - You can get 14 and 16 for like 10 bucks from honda - so why pay 10 bucks for the name?

Syndacate

Lemme rephrase, I don't think I quite worded it right last time.

I know 14 and 16 are a must have - I'm just saying, is there anything else I should replace under there off that diagram?

SkoundrelUSA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's what I thought, thanks.

A) You don't have to press it with anything except your finger.
B) Last you checked was wrong - the OEM bushing is 1 piece - I changed mine with one in better condition - one piece (14).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, I meant the polyurethane bushings. They are quite hard so its hard to push it into the linkage. (For a b-series. The ES bushings for D-series ones are 2 piece)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's not that I'm a fan of OEM, it's I'm a fan of paying the cheapest price - now ES bushing don't provide anything further than a cute name - You can get 14 and 16 for like 10 bucks from honda - so why pay 10 bucks for the name?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because polyurethane doesn't really get worn out so you don't have to replace it again. Trust me, they feel completely different than OEM.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry, I meant the polyurethane bushings. They are quite hard so its hard to push it into the linkage. (For a b-series. The ES bushings for D-series ones are 2 piece)

Because polyurethane doesn't really get worn out so you don't have to replace it again. Trust me, they feel completely different than OEM. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah, IC, good to know.

Yeah, the OEM bushings are one piece.

If they're two piece I fail to see how a problem arises as you could just put half in on each end and tap in w/ a rubber mallet...

Getting OEM ones in and out is no problem .

SkoundrelUSA

lol Again I was talking about B-series. That picture looked like B-series to me so I thought thats what you had now.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol Again I was talking about B-series. That picture looked like B-series to me so I thought thats what you had now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

O, I C

This part made me think you were saying the D series bushings were 2 piece:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ES bushings for D-series ones are 2 piece</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyways, thanks.

gsxr1k05

the b series is a 2 piece as well. i had to replace those in my crx with a b16 swap. i used the oem bushing for that cause i didnt want to wait for shipping.. you can find the es bushing on ebay for the same price as the oem one.

Blk00EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the b series is a 2 piece as well. i had to replace those in my crx with a b16 swap. i used the oem bushing for that cause i didnt want to wait for shipping.. you can find the es bushing on ebay for the same price as the oem one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Unless Energy changed their bushing from last year, their #14 bushing for B's is one piece. I'd be weary about buying individual bushings on eBay that are sold under a brand name... likely they're knockoffs. I bought the entire bushing kit from Summit

Anyway, lube goes a long way (ha!) when installing polyurethane. I installed mine pretty easily by hand with some lube to prevent the material from binding on the linkage. Doing it dry (double ha!) can get a little cumbersome. Excuse all the innuendo

Energy's bushings feel nice btw, and if I were you, I'd replace all the small hardware down there while you're at it. I don't need to remind you that stuff gets weathered pretty badly under there, and replacing a few bolts or nuts that are exposed now is easier than having to drill them out later if they snap off. That hardware is pretty cheap.

Archidictus

1.) You don't replace 9 or 19 when you do bushings - just clean the stock units up and lube them before reinstallation.

2.) 16 and 14 are the only bushings that come in most kits.

3.) B&M shifters come with plenty of 23's to replace on the 11 part in the diagram. Again, use a ton of lube (provided)

4.) 17 is metal and doesn't need to be replaced.

5.) replacing the bitch pin will likely make more of a difference in the way the shifter feels than anything else. If you're going to be under the car for bushings, you might as well put in a new pin while you're at it.

Lots of people are frightened of the bitch pin, but there's no reason to be. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet extension to drive it out - it fits perfectly (I did it two days ago) and tap the new one in from the bottom. Done deal.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.) You don't replace 9 or 19 when you do bushings - just clean the stock units up and lube them before reinstallation.

2.) 16 and 14 are the only bushings that come in most kits.

3.) B&M shifters come with plenty of 23's to replace on the 11 part in the diagram. Again, use a ton of lube (provided)

4.) 17 is metal and doesn't need to be replaced.

5.) replacing the bitch pin will likely make more of a difference in the way the shifter feels than anything else. If you're going to be under the car for bushings, you might as well put in a new pin while you're at it.

Lots of people are frightened of the bitch pin, but there's no reason to be. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet extension to drive it out - it fits perfectly (I did it two days ago) and tap the new one in from the bottom. Done deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you as always, Mike.

I have no clue why people bitch about the bitch pin - or even why it's called a bitch pin.

Or maybe it's just my inexperience? Who knows? All I know is that it's never taken me more than 10 seconds to pop that clip off. Just got a screwdriver against it and hit it with a wrench - popped right off. And since the other trans I just swapped had the linkage cut (not unbolted) I had to take the pin off of that too...again, same deal, &lt;10 seconds. So I really don't get what the problem with that thing is...

In any event, that's pretty much what i figured about stuff, the #11 just clean it up and put new O rings (23) on it?

So since the B&M comes with lots of O rings, I'd probably look to change:
14
16
1

EDIT:
And lube everything up with the grease provided upon reinstallation?
//EDIT

Then the bolts that go through the bushings just leave - they're fine? I was only thinking of that from the perspective that the salt killz up here - but again, when I changed the trans it unbolted easily so who knows .

Blk00EJ8

The metal sleeves should be fine but after coping with soooo many seized and/or busted fasteners, I'm a firm believer of replacing them if they show signs of rust. Your call, though, as I think everything was covered. Good luck.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blk00EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The metal sleeves should be fine but after coping with soooo many seized and/or busted fasteners, I'm a firm believer of replacing them if they show signs of rust. Your call, though, as I think everything was covered. Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good to know - thanks.

Hittnthebz

Is #22 the "bitch pin"?

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hittnthebz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is #22 the "bitch pin"?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, and 1 is the clip that holds it - had it mixed up there first time I looked at it.

Hittnthebz

Yea, that is a bitch. Now im gonna have to mess with the car again to try to get it out since i learned some tricks from this page.